I don't know this specific unit, but yes, having a properly configured line level crossover has many many benefits.
Ozzy on Linda Ronstadt was the source an LP or CD or ?
Vinyl at my place can hit 30hz, I don’t use a rumble filter either. My stuff can’t pump it’s servo. Deepest hitting vinly rigs I’ve heard are always servo bass AND direct coupled..
CD or stream is source dependent, if it’s there my servos will play it below 20.
4 F113s ain’t cheap, they are really nice looking with a ton of features.. At least they arn’t bottom firing without a butt plate.. EX: REL Bad idea, old tech.. None I my buddies use bottom firing subs any more. Neighbors complain to much...
I stopped the waves in the neighbors pool!!
When I looked at RELs design and read THEIR BS. I did the same. They are WAY behind in Bass tech. It is literally 70-80s tech. Bottom firing with NO butt plate (or slot loaded). There is NO way to decouple from the floor without adding a slot..
NONE of my buddies have used subs constructed like that in 30 years.... Nice paint though.. LOL REL owners like SPL, and FEELING the bass that's easy.. Buy exciters.. doing the same thing.. smearing the bass signal over evey surface in the room behind NOT decoupling.. They sound terrible to me, make my ears hurt..
I use to run JL W12s in my auto stuff in the 90s I think it was W12s Serious drivers..
The CR-1 has been a very impactful addition to my system for 2 years now. The main improvement was unexpected; the speaker's (high frequency and midrange) output became clearer. JL explained that it’s due to the speakers being alleviated from the lower frequency bass duty. The cross overs (on the subs) cannot do this. The CR-1 is excellent.
@ozzy - I can’t imagine using 4 of these JL F113 beasts. I have 2, my room is 18X20x9 and the bass is very palatable in the listening locations. The bass must be extremely uniform in your room. Best Regards.
Ozzy, I could put it in front of my Cary sli-80, but that would accommodate only one input; either my cd player or my 'table.
Or I could first put my two sources into a passive preamp, then that pre into the CR-1, then split into the Cary and the subs.
It gets complicated and adds more to the signal path. Discouraging.
Anyway, I don't mean to rain on your parade. Enjoy!
I replaced a pair of RELs (using high level input from the amp) with a pair of fathoms with a CR1. This was to correct a 60Hz room mode on the vertical axis generated by the main speakers. There are measurements pics of this on my system page. The CR1 has a button to switch on/off the crossover circuitry, so A/B is easy. In my case bass extension is a little less and the blurriness around 60Hz reappears with the subs and crossover circuity off. The promise of decreased upper frequency distortion was not materialized in my case, although the coherence between the woofer and the "midrange/tweeter" improved. I have just used factory settings at 80Hz which seems like an obvious choice based on my problem. Playing the damping only made it wound worse. I am still experiemnting with placement/DARO a little bit as well as phase. It seems damping would be normal last step. As a side I find DARO pretty havey handed through its band, making "good enough" placement idiot proof. I am still working through it, though.
gita, Perhaps contact JL Audio for suggestions?
ohlala, If this helps:
I started with my subs close to the back corners, then I used the DARO. After that I tried to blend their output with my main speakers. Then I used the CR-1 to blend everything together.
But, I too am still experimenting with all the other settings. I can say though that just 2 days with the CR-1 and I am pretty happy with the bass intergration.
BTW, I also have 4-ASC 20" tube traps in all 4 corners.
I had help from acoustic frontiers in sub/speaker relocation to smooth out bass. I have at least a hundred REW measurement from this misadventure. The subs ended up near opposite corners of the room, which flattened all but the 60Hz. Elevating them half way up the wall helped partially, and the crossover eliminated it. With the fathoms, I now have a 20 Hz issue, below what DARO controls. I pulled one sub out in the room as far as resonable to flatten it, but created a massive 34Hz issue that daro amazingly corrected. I did waterfall overlay between the two radically different positions, and there was not much difference even in decay time. I could not really hear a difference either. I may try moving one sub to the corner, so the pair are symmetric to see what happens.
Like you suggest, I also EQ’d it then adjusted levels, which is easy. The LF trim control’s bandwidth is too broad, so of course volume has to be adjusted. Unfortunately I do not know how to use stereo with separate phase controls and use DARO at the same time. Are you using master/salve configuration?
Yes that is also my concern since previously I was sending the signal direct from Lumin X1 directly to my amps thus bypassing a preamp and all the associated cabling.
Now with the CR-1 I have again additional electronics and cabling in the chain.
But, so far I am having a hard time determing if there is in fact a reduction in transparancy.
90Hz is what JL recommends. Also, I tried several from 70hz to 110 and did not like other x-over frequencies any better. Regardless if it's 80 or 90, I believe the most important part is to find the right phasing on each sub. That's when the entire system just clicks-in!
For those of you who do own a CR-1 and want to use it with your home theater. The directions are incorrect. If you connect a RCA sub input from the Home theater into the "Managed Subs" input on the CR-1 you must output using the same type of output (RCA) to your subs. The same goes for XLR input.
I actually used a XLR/RCA adapter into the "Managed Subs" input so that I could still use the XLR subwoofer outputs.
I hope I explained this correctly.