There are a myriad of things you can employ. Your question is too broad, try to ask about one component at a time. In general I use heavy brass pointed footer into thick maple butcher block stands . That was for amps preamps.
The footers aren't crazy expensive There was a guy in Vermont or some NE state ? Eden Sound I think. who makes what ever style of footer you want to use.
Depending on your budget there are actively dampened platforms that some rich guys put their turntables on. Most people who want to avoid footfall sound in their TTs use a wall shelf which is very effective in isolating the TT.
Speakers usually get spiked footers but there are some stand manufacturers that people swear by.
Sorry for any confusion,just trying to get an idea of general isolation methods.
Herbie's is very good for component isolation...I use "Big Tall Tenderfeet" under components instead of the stock feet.http://herbiesaudiolab.net/products.htm
For speakers, IME, using spikes sound better than speaker footers or bases. But all systems and situations are different.
Turntables are the most complicated to treat for isolation and each system presents its own set of problems.
Instead of posting a new thread, why not invest some time and learn about what other members have been contributing, on this very subject, for the past ten years? Won't this work better for you?
Simple, move all equipment except the speakers to another room. End of problem.
Depending on your budget there are many isolation methods. In general starting at a lower price point there are different spikes and footers made from various materials.
At a higher price level there are isolation platforms made by Symposium, HRS, Silent Running and others.
There are also isolation platforms made by Vibraplane, Minus K, and Herzan; that were originally designed for scientific instruments and have now been adapted for used in high fidelity audio systems.
My listening room is on a sprung floor above a garage, and I have had great difficulty with vibrations/footfalls, etc... A tip someone gave me has worked wonders. I have everything, including a turntable, on a pretty heavy 2-foot tall, 5-foot long entertainment unit. I bought some spring-loaded bamboo drawer dividers ($17/pair) on Amazon and placed four of them against the entertainment center on one end, against the wall on the other. It has made a huge difference in isolating footfalls, and tightening up the sound of the system.
Continuing along the spring absorption of vibration train of thought, try low cost springs (Machina Dynamica baby Promethean cryogenically treated isolator springs) between the flat bottom of component and the wood surface below, such as heavy furniture or maple board. This is a quick way to hear an improvement. Otherwise, with a bigger budget and more conventional philosophy check out the many items on Herbies site mentioned above with its vast array of products.
Symposium Ultra stealth edition works wonderful.
For a thought-provoking discussion of isolation versus coupling, go to the Barry Diament Audio website, where the audiophile recording engineer explains roller bearings. He recommends them under everything---turntables, digital, pre-amps and power amps, even loudspeakers. His argument for the concept is very well reasoned and supported with facts. Roller bearings are made by a few companies, the original being Symposium Acoustics.
Roller bearings are made by a few companies, the original being Symposium Acoustics.
That is not correct. Final Audio Research from Japan introduced their Durama Roller Balls in the late 1980's early 1990's - well before Symposium introduced their version in 1997. I have some Japanese audio magazine articles from the 1960's & 70's where they were using marbles as roller balls for energy dissipation under their audio equipment back then.
if you want some fundamental information on decoupling/isolation there is a website which supplies industry and science with isolation products and has a tutorial which in very enlightening.Herzan Acoustic and Isolation Specialists
the link is for the tutorial page and has numerous subjects to investigate. it's not an audiophile website but applies to all the issues that systems experience.
I use 2 of their active isolation shelving units; the TS-150 under my preamp and digital, and the TS-140 under my turntable.
I also use other 'audiophile' isolation products such as a mag-lev shelf and Wave Kinetics A10 U8 decoupling footers.
I stand corrected! There is a machinist making good imitations now, Ingress Audio Engineering, $75/3. The cups are smaller in diameter with a slightly higher resonant frequency, but still effective. Buy three extra 3/8" ball bearings, use the cups singly (as bottoms only) instead of in top & bottom pairs, and you have two sets of three roller bearings for about $80! The best isolation deal around.
Thanks for all the neat ideas!
As I said there is a wide variety of isolation products and techniques. Check out those electron microscope platforms for esoteric and intensive isolation. I am glad that most of the audio community's approach to isolation got mentioned. The OP has merely to sort through this filter through the affordability sieve and belief system to arrive at the answer that best suits him (her).
I would love one of the Minus K tables, but a turntable sized one effective down to 3Hz is $2800! I still have my Townshend Audio Seismic Sinks (an air bladder platform) which when used in conjunction with roller bearings does a good job at isolating my turntable, CD/SACD player, and tube pre's and power amp. Another good isolator is the new Townshend Audio Seismic Pod, a spring type. Robert Levi of The LAOCAS and Positive Feedback loves them. Not cheap, a couple hundred bucks apiece.
I've always used Herbie's products for my components and they always worked until I got my Marantz reference components. The Marantz gear sounds nice and tight without them and a bit muddy and dense with them. I've never had that happen with my other gear. I have everything situated on my Timberland maple rack so it's mostly an acoustically dead platform.
As for speakers, again I was using Herbies Big Fat Square Dots and the sound was really nice but a bit bloated on the bottom and somewhat lacking in the highs. Removing them solved the dilemma. It turns out having the 1" rosewood bottom of the speaker resting on a 2" maple speaker stand top couples the speaker nicely enough to warrant nothing else needed. I've got the cleanest presentation so far with a deep and tight low end, stable and almost liquid mids and nice and airy highs. Only brass has that bite but it's most natural and doesn't make me wince. I smile a lot though.
All the best,
nothing beats stillpoints
I have a raised foundation. My speakers are floorstanders weighing in at 140 lbs each. I got a HUGE improvement by spiking Mapleshade platforms to the floor though the carpet, then spiking the speakers to the platforms.
For the audiophile who's not financially flush exactly bungee cords work surprisingly well and don't cost an arm and a leg. Springs will beat cones any day of the week.
components on Mapleshade blocks with mega footers sound great.