Isolation Transformer or Power Regenerator


How are they different? Is one better than the other?

Let’s first just I assume that I have bad power. I have a Topaz 1.8 (.9 balanced) that I put my McCormack DNA-1 Deluxe (SMcAudio silver upgrade) on recently and the difference in sound was night and day. Was expecting subtle changes but not dramatic changes. The amp right out of the wall did not sound very good at all, which just did not make sense…it’s a good amp. Putting the iso in line explained why. So, my feeling is I need to get fresh power to my entire system. The Topaz in balanced form may have just enough headroom to squeek by (according to Steve McCormack) with just the amp on it. More would be better.

So, should I get a higher power iso (Topaz, Oneac) for the amp and using the existing one iso on the other gear? If so, does it matter if it is a IE-core or Torroid? Some say EIs let less noise through, some say a good Torriod will equal EI in terms of noise reduction and create less noise (EMI) than an IE. Any final verdicts on this?

Or would it make more sense to get a (Exact Power, PS Audio Power Plant Premier) power regenerator and put the whole system on it. Would any of these have enough headroom to cover my whole system?

I already have a dedicated 20A line to this system. Looking for bang-for-buck solution.

My System:

TADAC Tube Pre/DAC = 25W According to Paul at TAD)
Apple TV = 20W (according to Apple)
DIP (Original) = 10W (according to back panel)
Tivo HD = 40W (according to tivocommunity)
Video Switcher = (don't know but could it be much?)
TV = 240W (according to manual)
McCormack DNA-1 Deluxe = 400 (according to SmCAudio)
Paradigm PS1000 powered (250W/750W peak) Subwoofer = I can’t find this, any ideas? Let’s say 375

TOTAL = 1110W
cpalcott

Showing 4 responses by ngjockey

Not going to argue with success. Go bigger. However, might be more hum and certainly more power draw.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Isolation-Noise-Suppressing-Transformer-5kVA-NEW_W0QQitemZ310306755784QQ
For example...

http://www.kyledesigns.com/product/2095-HGRED/Red-Hospital-Grade-20A-Decora-GFCI-Receptacle-Satin.html
Yes, that's a good thing. 20 in, 20 out. You're 900VA should have a 7.5A fuse protecting it from overload.

Always recommended at least double the capacity on the iso as the maximum draw. Haven't I said that before? Particularly for class AB amps.

Now then... code (as mentioned by Jea48 in your previous thread)... That's tricky with DIY setups where the transformer is wired in any way not implicitly intended. It's been done hundreds, maybe thousands, of times but it's different from UL approved commercial products. If the local authority follows NEC to the letter, "balanced AC" is not allowed in residential applications. Minimum compliance would be GFCI outlets (preferably orange) and labeled "Warning Technical Power". I might also suggest "Not for lighting". There is also a perceptual leap between plug-ins and hard-wired because the nearby dedicated transformer or enclosure is a warning in itself. Lak's setup is fine because it's not balanced. Personally, I think it can be done responsibly but I'm not "the authority having jurisdiction".

Canadian CSA code agrees with 99% of all UL certifications but there is no provision for "balanced AC" Not exactly a loophole since it's pretty specific about single-phase wiring.

IOW: You're on your own there, bud. Risk/cost/reward... your decision.

In my business, I see boilers all the time that aren't strictly code compliant for their BTU's (million+) but that's fine, as long as they're approved and certified. Install incorrectly or make one little change and guess who's ash is on the line.

To those reading this and questioning balanced AC from a standard isolation transformer, notice the 240/120 specification.