I would look also look at http://silentrunningaudio.com they make Isolation Bases for your specific table.
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How about a granite platform with Vibrapods or IsoBlocks. I have had success using this method. I have some 3/4" x 18 x 18" granite platform on sale here on Audigon and others sell the Vibrapods. Use at least 6-9 pods of the proper type and stagger the direction (large end then small end) Finally, make sure the table or rack your table will be in is stable and not easly rocked. This should do the job at a very modest cost. Good luck, Milo
PS I also offer 1.25 thick platforms as well.
Chuckaolcom; here is wht I did and i is the best $225 I have ever spent. I had Andy Misco at http://www.hhgstands.com/ build me one of his stands with an insert space of 18"x18". I had intended to use it as an amp stand but I gave to large a measurements and it did not fir under my desk. Anyway I went to a local cycle dealer got an 16" tube put around 5psi in it put the granit on top and then my TT. One you get all the vibration control you need (get large spikes). At $200 for the woodwork $20 for shipping and $4.95 for the innertube not only does it work great the craftmanship is unsurpassable. When I have another made I will have the well at least an 1" deeper so I can use 1.5" granite instead or .5". I am also going to tweak my stand by getting 2-3 more innertubes and gable tying them so they are oplong and not circular so I can put 3-4 tubes in the well. Also one thing you might look into (I'm going to order some as well) are the seashocks. Look up www.seashocks.com. Very interesting.
Hope I helped some
It is important to keep in mind that vibration that affects turntables (and all other components) does not only come up through the rack from the floor. The most effective vibration control product will not only provide a barier to floor-borne vibration but will also have the ability to absorb and dissipate unwanted vibration out of the turntable's chassis that has been created inside the turntable by the spinning motor and platter and has traveled directly through the air from the speakers towards the turntable's outer chassis. Most vibration control products only have the ability to deal with floor-borne vibration and the majority of those are limited in their ability to do even that effectively.
It is also critical that the vibration control product not add its own contribution to the signal flowing through the comoponent. Vibration control products that are constructed from materials that ring (stone, metal, glass, etc.) or materials that resonate (wood, acrylic, plexiglas, plastic, etc.) should be avoided.
Disclaimer: I am a manufacturer of vibration control products.
I have been using one of Barry Kohan's Bright Star Gemini isolation platforms under my VPI TNT for the last four+ years. It has been an excellent performer. My room is not an easy one from an isolation standpoint, as I have a full range, high-powered system in a room with a suspended wood floor and a DIY rack that does not itself provide much in the way of isolation. (I'm working on the rack part.)
I had significant feedback problems with my analog rig before I installed the Bright Star Gemini isolation base. The Gemini isolation base seemingly cured all the noise feedback problems, and I have been content with the Bright Star base ever since. (Unfortunately, however, I will have to move on to a new base whenever I finally decide to pull the trigger on upgrading my TNT to include the flywheel, as that will cause me to outgrow my current base.)
I am also using the Silent Running Audio custom isolation bases under my amps, and I am VERY impressed with their performance. So I would put in a vote of confidence for the SRA products as well.
Maple butcher block under the TT with DIY rollerblocks under that. Worked better that anything spongy that I tried. Better isolation from the kids running through the room. Great focus, musicality, speed and dynamics. Spongy things tended to creat a mushy sound and had less effective child born vibration isolation :-)
Another option would be to build a sand base seismic sink type of device (if you have the room for it and can bear the extra weight).
Bob, I could never float that past the wife. Seriously low WAF. I've got a 1/2 piece of plexiglass sitting on some vibrapods. This set up eliminated a ton of feedback I was getting. My "rack" is a decorative wall unit and is fairly unstable. Without the platform I couldn't even listen to my TT, the feedback was so bad. Now it's fine. Good enough, anyway.
I made a DIY sand box from 3/4 MDF with a seperate plinth for my turntable motor and table. If you have a friend with a shop you can make one for $75 or so. Mine holds about 75 lbs of sand and does and excellent job of eliminating vibration. I also have it on a beefy, DIY, cherry pillar, Birch, European pilewood, two shelve unit that is extremely stable, which looks fantastic. All of this rest on a cement floor with a pad and carpeting over it.
Adding a spring-type base, or one with rubber, or one with air bladders, is simply making your turntable a suspended turntable, instead of an unsuspended one.
If you want to make the most of your unsuspended turntable, then you should look at stands which are generally suited to unsuspended turntable use. These would generally be a high-mass rigid stand that is relatively low to the floor, but still high enough to be convenient for changing records.
Adding a suspension under a TT, has never had any attraction for me.
I would tend to agree. That is why I have my Well Tempered on a two shelf, solid cherry post stand (My design) that is spiked. It also rests on a (DIY) 75lb sand box that has a separate plinth for the motor.
However, if Ozzy62 says this spring suspension has improved the sound of his table I won't disagree with him. The proof is in the pudding!
I have always liked rigid coupling of components better than air suspended and the like. But the Promethean under my 'table is a great improvement. Better than a Sistrum SP-1/Neuance combo sitting on my Adonis rack. And I don't mean by a small margin either.
Hey, it's a pain in the ass to have the table situated that low. I assure you if the benefits didn't far outweigh the inconvenience it would be situated on my rack. It sure looks better up there......
Guys who make granite countertops don't have much use for the sink cut-outs. They are often appropriately sized for turntables, and you can acquire them inexpensively. The granite guys will often square-up the sides and can even polish the sides, if you like. I got several for $10 each.
I put five 2 inch rounds of 1/2" thick Sorbothane on top of my shelf and under the granite. I then replaced the stock feet on my 'table, and replaced them with threaded-in cones. The tip of the cones fit into a small depression on flat discs. The discs sit on same diameter sized 1/8" thick Sorbothane, which sits on the granite. Made a huge difference on my non-suspended 'table for not a lot of dollars.
Granite comes in a wide variety of colors and patterns. Blue Pearl (a deep blue and beautiful granite), which comes from Sweden, is probably the most dense, closely followed by Emerald Pearl. Southern grey is an inferior granite, but Barre (Vermont) grey is a very durable and dense stone. There is also a black granite with gold-colored flecks. I forget its name, but it is stunning.
is your stand filled with #6 steel shot?if not,remove all
components,flip over,pull off plastic caps by spikes,fill
with shot,replace caps,flip over,vola problem solved.i
recently picked up a CF-5 stand and love it.i am using
it with a thorens td-126 turntable and have no feedback
problems whatsoever.this stand is an isolation platform.
all your components needed dusting anyway.