Mine sits on 3 myrtle blocks, which are placed on a Black Diamond slab, which rests on top of a Zoethecus Z slab, which is on the wood shelf to my rack. Probably could do without either the Black Diamond slab or the Z slab, but it sounds just fine.
Check out musicdirect.com for the factory recommended Ayre Myrtle Wood Blocks. These are the Cardas (manufactured for Ayre) blocks which do the right thing to support your unit.
Otherwise, my default support recommendation is to check out Herbiesaudiolab.com for Tenderfeet, or Big Fat Black Dots, either of which represents a cost effective great support idea.
I tried to place the cdp on top of maple wood which on top of my shelf (without Vibrapod). The sound was much better as i expected. Tighter bass, mid and high are clear. I think i will order stuffs from Herbiesaudiolab.com and place it under the maple wood to see what happens. THe cost is reasonable to me.
Ayre Myrtle Wood Blocks
The Arye cd-player is heavy on the left side Ayre recomments to blocks under the tranformer (the heavy side)
Buy a gravestone put 3 sorbortane feet on it, to at front, one at the end and then put the Arye cd-player on it. The soundstage Will be very big, the dynamik too.
Take the led of it´s alu, it´s rings, buy sorbortane plates put them inside the led, sides, button.
Hvu, You can compare the use of Herbie's footers in two different ways, first directly between the Ayre CX-7e and your maple board base, and second under the maple wood base.
I think directly under the component can be the most neutral, allowing a component to be at its best.
Incidentally, I have found that placing one or more Cardas/Ayre Myrtle Wood Blocks on top of a component, especially the wooden plinth of a turntable, can fine tune the sound separately from the overall benefit of any footers.
With any support method, there can be an adjustment period of minutes to hours before the completed benefit, or effect, upon a component is audible. This endpoint is when there is a sense of ease or rightness to the sound, without any listener fatigue.
try sound fusion sound boosters. i reviewed this product on the website audiophilia.com . check the archive section.
I actually order Tenderfoot from Herbiesaudiolab.com Let wait and see if it will help anything. Since it has 90-days trial, i'll try it. If it does not work,i'll return the stuff and get Myrtle block.
How many block do you think i should get? I think the set is 3 blocks. I don't want to remove the foot from CDP,by the way.
I recognize the CX-7e is heavy in one side.
Another notice that Cardas/Ayre Myrtle Wood Blocks sold in set of 3 blocks. Why not 4? I think 4 blocks under CDP will be more stable than 3 . However, i think Ayre or Cardas has reason behind it.
Hvu, It is extremely stable with three footers under a component case, and Herbie's or Cardas/Ayre footers can bear great weight and still provide desired vibration control.
You place two of the footers under the heavy side of your component, and a single footer under the lighter side, if there is a big difference in distribution of weight to be supported.
If each Herbie's Tenderfoot is not tall enough when you do not remove the original factory feet then you can simply place a Myrtle Wood Block footer beneath each Herbie's Tenderfoot.
You will be surprised how you can make subtle adjustments in how your CX-7e sounds when you use different footers alone, or in combination. These are all very reasonable in price.
i read in Herbiesaudio.com that placing something like a piece of wood under tenderfeet will be ok. But I figure something like Ayre/Cardas Myrtle block combination will help. Actually, there's one person selling Myrtle wood block (same wood that Cardas makes ) in A'gon and i'll order from him. It's reasonable price to try out anyway.
Thanks for suggestions.
I use Monument Reference Signature SoundPosts and they are stellar. However, they do not come cheap..
A good question...I think you will gain a moderate to significant improvement in sound if you just use the Mapleshade isolation system. And no I have no relationship to Pierre Spreys Company. However he does have good "ears" and he does make great recordings. Have fun!
On my CX-7e I'm using a brightstar platform and brightstar little rock on top for complete isolation. Using both focused the soundstage and the lower end.
Slight topic drift ... Statman, did you get both BrightStar components at the same time? I'm wondering if you could say what effect the Little Rock has. I have a Air Mass 3 Reference (different player) and have often wondered about the Little Rock.
I've just bought Herbies Tenderfeet. This really cleans up the background noise. The bass is much tighter and punchy. I think i'll get some more for my dvd player...:)
Wide variety of soft, medium soft, medium and hard vibration control polyurethane available in sheets, bars, strips, balls, tubes, rods, backing, no backing and adhesive backing.
My experience with footers and isolation devices is so far not very encouraging. I have a CD-transport that is of comparable quality as the Ayre and also built like a tank (Accuphase). My opinion is: if a unit is heavy and is solidly built, you better can put it on it's own stock feet. Aftermarket feet or isolation devices provide only a change in sound, not really an improvement in this case.
I currently own the Ayre C-5xe (instead of the CX-7e) and called Ayre recently regarding isolation devices. The technician I spoke to recommended the Arye (Cardas) Myrtle wood blocks, as other have mentioned previously. He also recommended that they be used in conjunction with the paper coasters that are available at your local bar. Cut the coasters so they are the exact size of the Myrtle wood blocks and place them between the component chassis and the wood blocks. The technician told me that this was what they were using currently in their sound room. I've not tried the paper coasters yet myself, but thought I would share with everyone what I was told...
Thats just great..., now I am going to have to visit a bunch of bars so I can evaluate the optimal bar coaster composition, and which one sounds the best. The potential bar coaster tweeks could be endless, does it sound better soaked in beer, vodka, tequila, or in its OEM condition? Do coasters that have been exposed to live music retain an inherent "musicality?" - just kidding :>) Thanks for the tip, and happy new year - go Blue!
That's very funny!
Does a Guinness-soaked bar coaster absorb more vibration than one soaked in Harp?
Harp on the bottom, Guinness on top, your basic half and half.
what is paper coaster, by the way?
If you use cardas wood block, would you put it on top of MDF shelf or something else?
A paper coaster is a small round piece of absorbent paper on which a drinking glass can be placed.
MDF is usually not as good sounding as wood, depending on the footer. But, with Cardas/Ayre myrtle wood cuboids the ultimate sound varies with the positioning under the component, as well as the underlying flat surface material, so you could start with MDF if it is already in your possession.
I have experimented in different systems with the Cardas myrtle wood cuboids ("block" is not a fancy word when advertising this item) on different pieces of wood furniture, on maple slabs, on granite slabs, on formica surfaced plywood, and even between two stacked components (one should never admit this) with satisfactory results, because there are so many variables.
These cuboids can be placed on top of component cabinets to damp the component, and change the sound in a subtle way, which can be better or worse, so you just have to be flexible with this sort of inexpensive, helpful "tweak".
Sometimes, there is no precise "right or wrong" answer to a question which makes it possible for you to decide for yourself, and not have to feel you did something "wrong".
Last night, i tried several tweaks and here is what i did:
1> Ayre cx-7e on Tenderfoot which is on top of maple wood. Sounds ok.
2> The same as item 1 above , but i also put 4 grungebuster dots (http://herbiesaudiolab.home.att.net/gb.htm) under the maple wood. The soundstage is really big, but not smooth, especially vocal. I get tired of listening after 5 min. Also, bass is louder but boomy.
3> I put the integrated amp on top of maple wood which is on top of Grungebuster dots. CDP is on Tenderfoot which rests on the shelf (MDF). The sound is smooth as i like, but the soundstage is a bit smaller. Basically , the whole thing with this setup is coherent and balanced.
I guess i will try Myrtle block to see what happen. I don't know much about the theory behind all of this ,but isolating the integrated amp somehow makes improvement.
I had the Arye Cx 7 e home for tre days, after a short while i got tired too, I moved it around, on the carpet, on sorbortane feet, diffent cables, power leed, at last I gave it back to the dealer. Thinks the problem is that the transport is cheap (computer transport), its alu that the case is made off, No absorbing of noise (look inside). Use my Stax elektrostatic earphone, the problem whas here to, It whas the player not my set up, use power leed and cables, and diffent feet too. Dit not help at all.
I used to own Arcam FMJ CD33. Honestly, the arcam sounds more musical and smooth, or tube like. Then I switched to Ayre CX-7e. Ayre is more details, but not the way i really like. However, the CX-7e mates very well with my Totem Forrest speaker.
By the way, i put 3 myrtle blocks under CX-7e. Bass is tighter and tighter. Mid range is smoother, but the high is kind of edgy...or , if not saying harsh sometime.
I guess it may be affected by the way i put my integrated amp on top of maple platform which rests on the MDF shelf.
I know there are many factors may affect the sound and keep tweakling is getting tired...
That why i send it back to the dealer, the hign whas edgy, or harsh sometimes, talk to Arye said that it cut be the player, or i shut use Myrtel books, or it whas not "burn in" it was, it was the demo use in set op for the dealer round the world, or it dosent fit in the set op.