If you are not sure you can do something for yourself, and if there is no qualified fellow hobbiest to call upon for expert help, then it may be less aggravation for you if you pass on the "bargain" that might ruin your day.
The initial setting up of your arm will determine your vinyl future (sounds unnecessarily ominous, doesn't it), and you can take it from a fellow non-DIY'er, one man's bargain is another's albatross.
If there is a definitive answer from another Audiogon member about this topic, then you may want to reconsider what I am advising.
4yanx, are you out there??? I know you've got this answer...Cheers,
FWIW, my I have used Bluenote, Rega, OL, and Nottingham arms on my Spacedeck with the same inner collet. And if memory serves me right, my buddy used the same collet on his Interspace table for his OL RB 250 that he now uses with his Interspace arm. I really think you should be ok. But at some point you will really want to get the Interspace arm at the very least. The Nottingham arms have a great synergy with their tables, as you would probably suspect.
I have owned the Interspace with Rega arm and assume they have not changed it in the meantime.
As you may or may not know the armboard is attached to the plinth with two screws. The plinth has two rows of holes. The arm to spindle distances is variable by increments determined by the distance between the holes, so you do not need a new armboard. However, there are different sizes of collars that insert in to the armboard. Rega's arm posts have a larger diameter than the Interspace arm posts, so the Rega arm will not fit in to the Interspace arm collar. The collar made for the Rega arm is necessary for proper installation.
I obtained mine from my dealer. Audiophile Systems Limited is an uncooperative importer, and Nottingham effectively runs at turtle speed, so I would caution you to make sure you can obtain the collar before purchasing. That would be my situation if I were in your shoes, but I do not have any knowledge of how to obtain a collar any other way. Good luck. It is a great TT value.
Thanks muchly for the input. It *nearly* eases my mind.
I detect a direct conflict between the words of Ozzy and Ohlala. The former says the same collet/collar/whatchamajiggette works for interspace arms as for rega arms. The latter says that's not so. Will the real expert (answer) please stand up?
Thus there are two conflicting definitive answers of the sort Listener57 referred to. But I can't take his advice to turn play safe, as the MO for the Interspace is in the mail.
All of this aside, do I want a slightly used RB 600 or a new RB250 w/structural mod as my arm (for now)?
I'm no expert, but here are the arms I used with a single collet.
The Bluenote arms were a tight fit, but I could still manage it. All the rest were identical.
Teasing out the reality matters a lot less now, but I think deferring to Ozzy is sensible. I did not have both arms, but two collars. The one the dealer told me was the Interspace collar did not fit my Rega, so he sent me one that did fit. I read Ozzy's post thinking there was no incongruence with my experience because the larger, Rega collar could be tightened in the armboard to fit a smaller arm post. But what do I know? :)
Looks like maybe the interspace and spacearm collars/collets are different, and the latter, but not the former, fit rega. We'll see.
Richard, If you go for the classic Rega RB-300 tone arm, be sure to put onto your tweak "wish list" the F-2 Titanium Heavyweight Counterweight, from Gregory Kerry.
Lots of mention by me, and others, in past discussion threads. It further elevates the quality of your vinyl listening, at the modest list price of $129.
Thanks for the input, Listened 57. I am currently trying to decide between a britaudio Moth 250 w/brass counterwight, Moth 300, Moth 250 incognito, or an OL1, etc, though the last two are probably too many $ for right now.
The Moth 300 (with incognito wire as a built-in standard upgrade) together with the Gregory Kerry $129 aftermarket counterweight might blend the best of two views about how to optimize this audiophile classic tone arm design.
I could not tell from your posting whether the incognito wire is automatically included in the Moth 300, or what else the standard Moth wiring might be, if not incognito.
I don't know if the special Moth counterweight options are able to achieve the very special quality of the Kerry design. But, the Kerry is stunning, compared to the standard counterweight.
Perhaps, another Audiogon member has more hands on experience with the Moth line, and knows which model represents the "sweet spot" in the Moth lineup.