Internal Wire Gauge?

@elliottbnewcombjr

"If/when you take the bottoms off vintage equipment or backs off vintage speakers, you will be amazed how small and common the wires were/are."


@audio2design,

"And yet $100,000 CD players (and amps) are built on PCBs using generic copper, typically FR-4 substrates, though I have seen the odd PTFE, though their is little justification for it."



Nor should we forget cartridge wires or internal loudspeaker wiring (coil and crossover). These are chosen to be fine by design, and not by cost.

Electricity seems to be a fickle beast and simply loves to flow. It doesn't seem to care too much about which route it has to take as long as there is a route. 

I remember reading about a loudspeaker designer who claimed he once ran his $10k+ top of the line speakers through a single strand of cable to see if they would sound ok.

Apparently they did.

Audiophiles on the other hand don't seem to satisfied until they've got the audio equivalent of running a garden hose through the Mersey Tunnel.

Suitable for Framing ...

"  Electricity seems to be a fickle beast and simply loves to flow. It doesn't seem to care too much about which route it has to take as long as there is a route. "

I don't know about other folks, but I try to avoid accidentally buying 300V wiring for tube amp builds. The wire rating I cited above is used by transformer manufacturers in their mains and output transformers. UL 1015 is not shielded wire; it is a PVC jacketed hookup wire with a rating of 600V and is specifically designed to work in appliances, including tube amplifiers.

And don't forget to check the voltage ratings of the resistors. Some of those boutique brands (including Vishay RN60) are rated for 200 volts, and you can easily drop that voltage in tube amps.

Yes bad use of wording by me, jacketed is more appropriate, as opposed to shielded, however, there are a ton of wires that would be suitable, meet UL (or other standards), and have a 600V rating. However, unless you passing near another wire and/or the case, you often don’t require jacketing at all, bare wire may be suitable (just like a PCB), as long as the wire is supported. The op is asking about internal wiring, which could be many spots. I normally recommend for those not great at soldering to invest in a stripper that is good with teflon wiring and then use teflon wiring as excessive heat not not significantly damage the jacket.

1015 is often used as it is very cheap and provides better protection and colder guaranteed temperature rating than 1569 for 277V circuits.