Infinity EMIT Speaker Repair
Hi Joe, For EMITs that measure as "open" sometimes there is a DIY fix. I've seen it discussed over on the AudioKarma.org - Infinity Loudspeakers forum. BTW, that forum is the best I've found regarding questions about vintage Infinity speakers. Post the question there, with some specifics about the issue, and you'll get a quick and comprehensive response. I've posted there a few times regarding my Infinity Qb and Infinity RS1.5 speakers. Always got great responses. Good Luck and enjoy your classic vintage Infinity speakers. |
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Which EMIT, K? There are a few kinds.. The real old ones you have to inspect the magnets, make sure they are not flaking and secure them with a GREAT glue, if they need it.. The DIY is pretty easy. I used a press and flat vice.. Worked perfect after a couple of adjustments. Clamping the vice.. It will move.. those magnets.. LOL can be powerful.. The vice moved on me.. I was moving pretty quick.. As long as there are diaphragms, you can always find magnets. Actually better magnets too.. I have a couple pairs that need fixing.. Infinitesimal V.5 needs one.. That's a great speaker Infinitesimal, the first two. Aluminum/Mag speakers.. I have two pairs.. 700-1500.00 a pair.. Magic Markey too, in Kentucky.. Lots of Infinity parts.. Gettin' older, He is a Doctor of some sort too. |
I have the Infinity RS IIb speakers with the regular EMIT tweeters. The rear EMITS are blown. I tried new 1 1/4 Amp fuses with no joy. I can see the ribbon diaphragm is melted on both. I found this YouTube video by Bob Douglas. Watch "Infinity EMIT Tweeter Repair Replacement Procedure" on YouTube https://youtu.be/yXaVErRn6u4 Any feedback is welcome. |
joeradio I have fixed these years ago, without buying new wafers Dismantled it quite easy, on the wafer first check/measure with a magnifying glass the lead in lead (circled in red) out tracks for breaks, The the continual ribbon itself. If you can see the break you can with a pin and steady hands put just the smallest dab of quality electrically conductive paint/glue across the crack you’ve found, without joining the adjacent track to it, wait for it to dry properly. https://ibb.co/BwpG8Lt Cheers George |
OP just so you know until you change the XO or go to a different type of speaker you will NEVER keep a speaker in that position.. 50-60 watts max for the monitor section.. If you’re using a single amp and jumpers forget it.. I have owned RSIIbs a long time. That driver I convert to a soft dome and mount it in a tombstone OB and set it on the back ledge. I have the complete conversion and PICs. I turn them about 30 degrees in a 16 foot wide room... I used a great ring dome that were 50 watt speakers vs 10 watt. It stopped it from EVER happening again and added a smooth wonderful HF (not UHF) driver in its place. There is still a HF and UTF ribbon that front fires... This will take a little edge off.. That angle I secured with just a dab of silicone on the bottom of the T tombstone stand. You can just drill a hole so it will swivel, and use a wing nut.. I also convert the bloated bass drivers.. That is an easy one too.. The top section is about 92-3% efficient, the bottom however is only about 80-2% (MAYBE). They can take 3-400 watts stock.. WAY too much. NOW you see the problem STOCK... if your not mindful of TURNING it UP..... You blow driver on the top... DON’T uses a single amp.... Bi Amp and use a GREAT valve amp 20-50 watts for the top. Even 75. I use Macs.. MC240 were made for them.. PERFECT pairing.... Those crappy little fuse holders need attention too. Just use NEW busman fuses with a DAB of contact enhancer on the ends of the fuse and wrap the fuse with electrical tape OR a thin coat of clear silicone. CLEAN the holders and inspect for carbon trails.. Isopropyl... I went to a single reference DVC aluminum driver and a matching PR 92% efficient. I dumped the onboard XO for the bass to.. I use a 2496 behringer, full blown DSP for bass management.. I just add a second pair of GREAT speaker terminals and good cable inside. The inside is black holed.. and the front baffle NUTS are added to torque the new drivers in place.. You have to open the hole just a bit.. BAMB... I wish you could hear the difference those few changes make.. With the 2496 about 900.00 for the changes. BUT You’d be hard pressed to match that 2 speaker system with 6-8k speakers, and still have to come up with a SUBS to fill in the gaps.. Good from 20-25khz. That new bass system is tuned to 18 hz.. Serious SUBS too, from that point on... BETTER than a servo feedback system AND by no small margin either... Direct Amp to speaker connection, NO XO the speaker dampening actually WORKS.. believe it or not.. You can’t control overshoot with a passive XO.. The drivers HAVE to be directly connected to the amp... Sorry it’s the way it works.. Guys.. I use a Valve amp / class d amp combo... Approaching MY RMx Elixir SQ.. That’s saying something.. You want part numbers and WHERE.. let me know.. Most of it is right at Parts Express... Fun speakers, aren’t they..:-) Regards |
Hello All, A quick update. I just replaced the diaphragms in both rear EMITs. I bought them from America Vintage Audio after speaking with the owner Bob Douglas who was extremely helpful and very knowledgeable with sharing his information. The most time consuming step was separating the original diaphragms from the magnets by using an Exacto knife to score the factory adhesive. All took about 20 minutes per speaker. Bob Douglas has a YouTube video on this procedure. Now my RS IIb's are fully functioning and sounds amazing! |
