Unfortunately, there’s no, "standard" size for IEC connectors, so no one makes knockout punches, for those animals(to my knowledge, at least). Some rectangular punches are available, but- the prices typically aren’t realistic for limited usage(ie: https://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-60031-Rectangle-0-750-Inch-1-140-Inch/dp/B00204DWQI ). I’ve modded a few ARC preamps, which had aluminum chassis(easy to drill/nibble/file to shape/size, without a lot of metal flying around). No familiarity here, with Nak’s later(digital era) chassis materials(was steel, way back when). With a, "captive" cord in steel: I’ve found it easier to install upgraded cords like the following Zu examples(round/small diameter), can be installed through a rubber grommet, without any chassis alteration and soldered, internally. Of course, if you wanted a larger cord and don’t care about modifying the chassis: enlarging the original hole with a drill or knockout and using a bigger grommet’s an option. https://www.zuaudio.com/cable/mission-power-ii If you can find one of these, you’d be hard-pressed to improve on it’s performance (with a CD changer/DAC), at a reasonable price point: https://www.zuaudio.com/classic-cables/mother-power-cable
As far as your unit’s capacitors: if it were me, any electrolytics would be replaced with the exact same values, in either Elna Silmic II’s, their Cerafines or Sanyo OS-CONs. Most DACs have regulators that can be upgraded, as well, to great effect. (https://www.partsconnexion.com/capacitors-ele-elna-rfs-silmic-ii-series.html ) (https://www.partsconnexion.com/capacitors-ele-elna-roa-cerafine-series.html) (https://www.partsconnexion.com/sanyo-os-con-electrolytic-capacitors.html) (carefully observe polarity, when replacing electrolytics) (https://www.partsconnexion.com/belleson-SPX78-regulators.html
Thanks rodman99999........well I had hoped to replace it with Furutech https://www.futureshop.co.uk/accessories/connectors/iec-power#page=1
I don't mind cutting out the rear side of the case to accommodate this - but then - is soldering just straight forward ?
I have no experience in changing the capacitors ....wish I could. However thanks for the info....much appreciated.
Soldering: Yes. Just follow the existing cord, to it’s connection points. If there’s a star ground, the new cord’s ground conductor to that(perhaps you’ll need an eyelet/ring terminal). If not, try a point on the chassis. If that creates a ground loop, just forget about(cut off) the cord’s ground conductor(you didn’t have one prior, anyway). Same ground rules apply, for an IEC connector, if you choose to pursue that course(per Erik's recommendation). If you can solder/desolder competently at all; capacitors shouldn’t be a problem, providing access to your PC board bottoms is possible/easy. Be adventurous, but- practice first! Tiny alligator clips make great heatsinks and eutectic alloy solders are pleasure/easy to use, if you decide to go there. btw: Elnas for signal path / OS-CONs for power supply
Get your IEC socket first so you know what size you need, then use this:
It will take a lot of work and patience. Though honestly, you'll have better results if you forego using detachable cords and replace with a high quality shielded cable like this:
Check the diameter to make sure it will fit. You may need to ream the original hole. Make sure to get the right grommet so you don't have the cabling touching bare metal.
Erik - you said better results if I forego using detachable cords and replace with a high quality shielded cable......while practically everyone else says to get high quality detachable power cords.
However I must agree that the cable you suggested - indeed a high quality and well shielded cable if installed well - should make a very good well shielded high quality and very affordable power cable. This would eliminate the need for the IEC connector and works on the chassis right ? All I need a good mains plug - my job is done right ? - at least pertaining to the power cord section?
When you have time - do have a look at this link - suggest the mains plug. https://www.futureshop.co.uk/furutech-fi-1363-n1-l-shape-angled-uk-mains-plug-copper
rodman99999 - points well noted. thank you!
Erik - I found two options at site..... https://www.partsconnexion.com/dh-labs-bulk-ac-power-cable.html
12 & 14 AWG cable.....if I can open up my player - and get it connected direct - all I need is then just a suitable power mains plug.
Please do recommend a suitable power mains plug - please.
Your CD player is very old (20+ years) and really is it worth spending time and money trying to upgrading it? I highly doubt you'll hear much sound difference with a power cord change (I've been wrong before though).
I'd bet you'd have better sound quality results by spending the money that would be spend on a power cord on a DAC. there are some good DAC's that are under $250 that would sound a whole world better then the old one in the Nak. IMO
I'm not trying to be judgmental just bringing some (possible) reality to the discussion.
Also if you have never soldered before I'd get someone that has some experience to do the work, if you go ahead. bad solder joint on the power input could be a fire hazard. or get some training that could be fun also.
There may be an easier way. Cut the cord a few inches from the back of the player and wire in a female in line IEC, such as this one:
Even the most dirt cheap power cord will be a lot better than what’s on there now. That being said, its a 20 year old CD player. Worth nothing new, worth less than nothing now. Certainly if you have even $100 for a power cord you could get a lot more for your money just buying a better CD player. Or even $25. I mean there are probably better CD players on CraigsList listed under FREE STUFF and just sitting by the curb.
But the urge is just unstoppable and you can’t bring yourself to just solder a better power cord onto it (which is the way to go) then next best is what viridian said.
Oh, and what do you know:
Cost of a Furutech IEC and a Dremmel tool you may not own, I’d just buy a decent used PC, take off the female end and drill out a larger hole and buy a new, larger strain relief from Michael Percy. Page 21 - Cord Strain Relief: Collet Type. That’s what I would do. Pull the new cable in as far as you can and solder back to power supply.
Haven’t looked up your Nak but my guess it’s only a two prong plug. I agree add a shielded cable so look up digital two conductor power cable on VH Audio site and buy a Hubbell Hospital Grade male plug and tie the shield to the ground at the wall receptacle. Easy project. I use the VH Audio digital cable and it’s very good. Be surprised you’ll find better for the money. Shielded twisted pair.
The VH Audio cable mentioned will likely work in the existing strain relief if you’re careful taking it out.
I have had really bad luck with Furutech for speaker connectors, so I no longer go near the brand, but there are a lot of fans.
You may also look to see if you can find Cardas in the right form factor.
If you eliminate the socket, you eliminate one more contact location, that's why I feel that hard-wiring a new cable is a better option. I always recommend shielded cable for digital, as I think it minimizes the chance of radiating noise back out.
I did not read all of this but are you looking to cut out a hole and install an IEC outlet so you can use after market power cords? If you are int eh NYC area I can do that for you for a minimum fee. Or is you buy there wire I can also swap out the existing cable and install the new cable of your choice.
How bad is the original power cable? The main problem with most cords is the cheap nickle plated brass plug with the injection molded plastic housing. As long as the power cord gauge is sufficient you might just try upgrading the plug.
You can easily spend $100 for just a plug but if you want to experiment with something cheaper check out the Sonarquest line. The housing is not as heavy duty as the pricier brands but the internal connections are tight and they use pure copper connectors (not brass). I used the red copper unplated connectors but for a little more you can also get silver or rhodium plated.
Just the plug for $12.50
Set for $20 https://www.ebay.com/itm/SONARQUEST-SE-RP-B-SE-RC-B-Red-Copper-Power-Plug-IEC-1-set/123202049886?has...
Thank you all - for having extended the helping hand of yours......didnt expect such response!
The MB-10 while 20 yrs plus old - is as good as new as I have looked after it so well - plus its a 5 Cd player - which offers the convenience of not having to get up from the comfortable seating position when I am holding a pint and chips :)
Nak offers the option to its digital output - and indeed bypasses the players DAC (it could be outdated ?) - and i run it through a good Luxman DAC da06.
I believe in the school of thought that a good power cord indeed makes a difference - Eriks suggestion to minimize the 'joints" and run it to straight makes sense - although my idea was to fix and IEC connector first. But clearly Eriks suggestion minimizes the cost - and work - for guys like me - although transportation of the unit could be problem - but I will cross that bridge when it happens.
I am nowhere near any of you unfortunately and work and live in Dubai ...so as much as I would like to get it done professionally - just to courier alone would be higher than the cost of the unit currently.
Any suggestions on any other part - to be replaced / upgraded - especially capacitors - the technically and electrically savvy amongst you - please do suggest and let me know what to look out for.
The Nak might be old - but to my ear - it sounds much better for 2 Ch audio than my Denon 3313UD universal player! Dont know whether its because its because I am old (having hit 55 ) or whether like fine wine - with age Nak seems to have only refined its simple pure sweetness . These are all connected to a A Class Luxman 509AXii amp.
I do thank you all once again - God Bless!
Since you are using the deck as a transport only to output the digital signal to a DAC, it might be easier, and more productive, to experiment with footers to either couple, or decouple, the deck and various damping materials inside the case such as the 3M material on the cover, and other types of reversible tweaking that does not require soldering or electronic knowledge. Just a thought.