call a rug store and explain what you want to do . its not uncommon to use rugs as replacements for pictures. i am sure if its a store that carries higher end rugs, they will know what you are looking to do and how to do it.
If you view my system thread you will notice there's a brick fireplace between my speakers. That image was made during the short period of time my rug was not hanging in front of that brick.
I hung a silk rug with a 2X2 piece of lumber cut 1/4 inch shorter than the width of the rug, then attached tack strip to the face of the 2X2 and mashed the rug onto the tack strip.
In case you're not familiar with tack strip, it's a thin sliver of wood with dozens of sharp tacks (tiny nails) imbedded in it. This is designed to secure wall to wall carpeting around at the perimeter and doorway of a room.
This stuff is nasty, very sharp and easy to prick your finger, but if installed correctly it has a death grip on the rug. Better still, with the 2X2 behind it allows the sides and bottom of the rug to hang freely, some inches in front of your hard surface, providing a tiny trap for sound.
In my room it increased the sound stage, reduced the false bright presentation off the brick and even tightened up the bass a bit.
To secure to my brick, I drilled two tiny holes and used brick anchors, screwing the 2X2 at each end. I then hung the 2X2 at the top of the fireplace using a level to insure it looked good to the eye.
If your room does not allow for the wall attachment method, I have also had success attaching eye hooks into the top side of the 2X2 and matching width eye hooks in the decorative beams (or sheet rock) in the ceiling. At any normal distance the wires are not intrusive, almost invisible.
Braided wire for hanging art work is very strong and pulling a length through the two eye hook at each end is all that's needed. The rug is able to (very slightly) swing on the wires, an inch or two in front of the hard surface.
The good news about the wire method, fastening one cable establishes distance, making leveling easy. Pull the remaining wire through the eye hook at the other end of the 2X2 until the bubble is square. Secure in place by twisting around and around or clamping with the supplied metal clip, depending the which type hanging kit you purchased.
If it's the rug in your system pics get some rebar for concrete cut to the hanging length and a spraycan of paint or clear to prevent the rebar from oxidizing. I used fishing line to sew the rug to the bar. If it's too heavy for mounting on the drywall find the studs and use screws and then hang the rebar on the screws. This way there are no marks on the rug that can be seen so if you want to use it as a rug again all you do is cut the line. It's easy to get it straight too. Done deal and cheap.
Albert-thanks, i was also thinking of using tackstrip to accomplish what you described. Using tackstrip on just one side has proven stable? and there appeared to be no damage to the rug after doing so?
Boss302-It is the rug thats in my pics. I think its going to be too big to fit in my new room on the floor with a chair and gear so thats why it will most likely end up being hung. thanks for your idea.
Do either of you have a preference on which wall it should be hung? both front and rear walls are standard drywall over studs. Im guessing bass tuning will be needed so maybe the front wall would be the way to go? And should i hang the rug long way horizontally or long way vertically? Thanks for the info and opinions.
Justin, I attached with only one piece of tack strip. It sits behind the rug with the spikes penetrating the hand tied knots on the back of the rug. The tacks are shallow enough that they don't pass completely through the rug face.
I did add two tiny nails at each end of the 2X2 to be certain the rug did not slip off and fall on my equipment. If a tiny nail is used you can "feel" your way, pushing between the fibers and causing little or no damage to fine rugs.
Mine is an antique Persian, 100% silk and worth a fair amount of money. I see no harm from the tack strip, probably less damage than feet cause when the rug is on the floor.
I've used this rug for many, many years. I originally imagined some of my photography silk screen printed on thin (semi acoustically transparent) cloth with fiberglass behind as sound treatment.
I ultimately decided the rug was simpler and a lot less work. It's surprising how many people think it's decorative (they love it) as opposed to being there for sound.
Thank you Albert!!! A lot easier than mine and will use that combination the next time. Jlind, if you have ceilings that are 10' tall there are probable a few people that would help you in room acousitics. ;-) My ceilings are 8' and from listening to other people's system I've come to understand that the room is part of the sound equation and you haven't said what your new room size is so can't really offer advice on rug placement. Good luck!
My wife & I are fans of good weaving and have collected rugs for many years. The only thing I'd add to Alberts' advice is that sometimes when you hang a rug on a wall facing the exterior, sufficient moisture can migrate through walls over time to cause rust to develop on the steel tacks in a tack strip. It has been my preference to use copper tacks which can be purchased at any well stocked hardware store. Boss302's sewing method works well too, I've done that for flat weave kilims or small Afghan saddle bags.
I have a tapestry on my wall. It is meant to be hung, unlike a carpet, which can be hung or put on a floor. It is hanging with Velcro. One strip of the Velcro is on the back of the tapestry. The other is on a 1x3 board so the the tapestry is supported along its length. It is the long edge of the tapestry which is supported, unlike rugs which are usually supported by the narrow end. The top edge of the board has eye hooks, which then slips onto another set of hooks on the wall. I didn't come up with this myself. The artist who made the tapestry prepared it and sold it with this hanging system in place. I don't know whether putting a Velcro strip on the back of a silk Persian would be the thing to do. I would want to check with a store which sells them, or even an antique dealer. I like Alberts's idea with the tack strip. The more tacks the better so that each holds less weight.
Albert-mine isnt silk but it did cost me a few schillings, and if it didnt hurt yours im convinced. Do you have any thoughts on which wall and which direction i should hang it to acheive the best sonic bonus. thanks again.
P.S. your system is gorgeous!
I checked at a carpet store and they used a staple gun and a 2"x2" piece of wood.
Nice rug too.
Have a nice rug store sew a sleeve on the upper back of the
rug-on the side you want to hang it from. Then use a hollow pipe of about an inch, push the pipe through the sleeve and then simply hang the rug with two heavy duty hooks in studs. You may have to cut access slots for the hooks to get around the pipe. This causes the rug to hang about two inches away from the wall, which creates a directional look (I don't know of this is what you want). This is first hand experience-I have an extremely heavy Belgian wool rug that is hanging in the living room, and I even used a copper pipe that was laying around the basement, and it is solid as a rock, with no sag. Very nice! -Fish
We use a variant of the Velcro method described by Markphd on several Navajo rugs to good effect. Velcro is attached to the back of the rug, (a light stitch done by a rug restoration specialist or any quality framer experienced in museum quality preparation). Velcro is also then glued onto a piece of wood which is nailed into the position - much easier to level a piece of wood!
Another alternative not mentioned here is to attach loops to the rug and then hang it from a rod. This can be quite decorative (eg wrought iron with finials etc) if that works in your home.
For smaller pieces a UV plex display box cover. The rug is mounted to a complimentary silk or linen backing then the box goes over it. I mention it because it is a nice way to handle a small piece (up to 2x3 or so) that won't hang well on its own. Obviously this approach negates any acoustical benefits of hanging a rug.
Thanks for all the input guys. i think im going to go with Alberts way. Quick and painless, just the way i like it. Im not too worried about the visual impact(i listen in complete darkness with my eyes closed) its all for sonics.
Boss302-Im heading over to the new place this evening and will measure the room so you can answer my orientation question better. With the new room i have free reign on room treatments so that and a new tt are the next upgrades.
i got my new room dimentions, 11'x14'-6"x9' and my rug is 5'6"x8'6". I calculated my room modes up to around 300Hz and didnt have any overlap in frequency until 270Hz, so im thinking my bass response should be smooth and linear.