How thick should the front baffle of speakers be?

Some manufactures advertise or hype a thick front baffle, two layers of MDF,  if the woofer is as thin as  paper cone how could it change anything. Could be just hype
C2cd16b8 5cef 4b4a b420 c3ffa17d9fb4soundsrealaudio
The woofer should move, but no other part of the speaker! :) I think that it matters to some degree. A woofer exerts tremendous force on the cabinet. Any flexing in the front baffle could lead to Doppler-like effects as well as additional, unintended sound sources. The ideal speaker's output is ONLY from the drivers. This is different than a musical instrument where the strings or membrane AND the body resonate together.

MDF is cheap though. :)


So I shouldn't be able to put my martini shaker on top of the speaker and wait 10 minutes to sip?   :  ) 

+1 Erik
That makes good sense since eliminating micro vibrations to the cabinet through footers etc. greatly increases speaker presentation. I never knew what mine were capable of until I put them on ceramic ball type feet. 
While I think solid construction is important, another sometimes overlooked thing is keeping the speaker from moving in 3 dimensions. A woofer can make the whole speaker rock back and forth. YMMV of course depending on the mass of the speaker, but a cheap tweak is often simply to add mass to the top of a speaker.

Tall skinny speakers benefit the most. It's pretty amazing.


3/4 inch plywood as used in vintage Altec's and JBL's will work just fine!
plywood works. I question the use of large drivers 10" and above that can shake the wood. I also question the method of attaching drivers to the face of a cabinet. Where is the technology? I feel let down. 
The 3/4" plywood used in the vintage JBLs probably did vibrate, but in a way that was pleasant to the ear.  For me, I am not particularly partial to speakers with heavy cabinets, but that's probably more to do with the overall design than the cabinet per-se.  
@soundsrealaudio- Martinis should be stirred, not shaken.  Just sayin' ;-)
Well, I suppose someone should tell Alon Wolf he's got it all wrong.. :-)
Mounting hardware is hype! I use gum. No difference.
3 things make a great speaker,the cabinet which of course includes the front baffle (not hype in the least),the drivers and last the crossover.TO see some companies that are leading the way look at Magico,Rockport and YG to name a few leaders in the field.Good luck!!What speaker do you have?
Well I learn something everyday. 
Help me out here people. If the cabinet does not effectively deal with the waves off the back of the drive they will just bounce off the cabinet and the back of the drive. They bounce through that paper thin cone and ruin you precious sound. Hell you pay big bucks for your source and pre and amps and then the speakers reward you with crap. 
@soundsrealaudio a cabinet is the only practical way to eliminate rear waves.

This however creates the problem of cabinet vibrations and rear waves being passed out the thin paper cone.

Only solution is an infinite baffle with no cabinet.

How thick is the front baffle of a Harbeth?
Wilson audio X...why is that any better then plywood? 

My entire speaker(s) are only two inches thick, har har.. Magnepan 20.7s.
That is cheating..............
the near reflection free driver patent ( Vandersteen) just expired...

 @elizabeth  you can fix your baffle issues with Mye stands....ha
what the hell is "the near reflection free driver patent ( Vandersteen)"