How much current?

I'm considering upgrading the power delivery to my simple 2 channel audio system. Looking for advice. Following are issues under consideration, grateful for feedback from those who have been through the experience:

1. Dedicated circuit. Willing to run a new line from the circuit box. I asked my electrician about 20A line, since all the big boys on audiogon are doing that sort of thing, and he poo-pooed the idea. Could run two lines if there is value, while he has his tools out. My current circuit has a couple recepticles and lights at the moment. I have lifted the signal ground switch to stop a buzz I think is coming from dimmer switches for the lights.

2. Wall recepticle. Seems sensible to use a quality one.

3. What about power from wall to device? It seems sensible to use a line direct from recepticle to power amp, while the other items (CD, preamp, DAC) can share a power bar. Assume a power bar with audiophile pretentions.

4. How much current for a device? At what point would it make sense to require a 20A power cord from wall to device?
Would it benefit the system if there were a 20A cord to the power bar, feeding the 3 devices mentioned above?

While I'm interested in these issues in general, my own system is fairly modest by this community's standards: Blue circle BC3 preamp, BC24 amp. Might upgrade to say, BC3000 and B28 in future, but no grandiose plans. Looking for real world advice: anyone who says a 20A line is overkill for my purposes will be personally thanked!
1. Dedicated lines are a good investment and will provide a benefit in terms of minimizing power anomalies from other users and less noise from things such as light ballasts, switching power supplies (computers) and household motors on the same circuit. Two of them are not overkill (four plugs will fill up quickly). Dimmers should be avoided like the plague on audio/TV circuits.

2. Quality wall receptacles range from ten to two hundred dollars a pop. Some have stated no difference between, say, a Hubbell specification grade and a Wattgate "audio grade" while others swear by the order of magnitude improvement the big buck receptacle ushers in. Your on your own.

3. What you have to consider is whether to protect your equipment vs. cleaning up the power line noise without impeding current draw. The latter starts to get very expensive as the power handling increases. If a couple of grand sounds too expensive, there are surge protectors out there new and used for a few hundred dollars that will be far better than the $29.95 models at Home Depot.

4. Forget about "20 amp" power cords as these plugs are of different configuration. They only work (fit) if your gear has 20-amp receptacles attached to them. Your equipment will have the 15-amp adapters in the back so you'll have the standard 15-A power cord. Most standard big name power cords will easily handle 20-amps. Don't build a system around a power cord.

20-amp wiring is not overkill. Once upon a time, houses were wired with only a couple 15-amp circuits. All you had back then were a few light bulbs and a TV set. Today, new houses use as a standard 20-amp circuits for receptacles. What with computers, microwaves, window air conditioners, exercise equipment, kitchen appliances, power tools, workshops etc., it is practically a necessity. Plus, what it amounts to is a difference of 50 cents - the cost between a 15-amp breaker and a 20-amp breaker. Most receptacles today handle 20-amps and the same size no. 12 wire is used for both circuit ratings. If you want the no. 10 thicker wire, now you may be talking overkill if you're running less than 50 feet from the panel.
Thanks a lot, your advice is very helpful! Certainly happy to add 20A lines if the additional current capacity serves a purpose -- especially if the wire is the same. My run will be right around 50 feet, so I still get to fret about 10 gauge line and overkill, but just a little now.