Generally speaking, if the solder joint remains shiny and smooth after it cools, you have gotten it hot enough. If it is rough and dull, it may be a "cold" joint.
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I use a soldering station with an adjustable setting & usually set around 750. I like using Cardas solder as it flows nicely but those are just my personal preferences.
I would suggest experimenting with different solder types on various wire/termination configurations using a variety of heat ranges and take notes to see which works best for you.
You can go to the Tweaker's Asylum on AA & do a search for soldering. Here's some basic info too:
"Silver Solder" is NOT the same thing as "silver bearing solder." You want the latter stuff - intended for electronic applications. The other stuff is higher temp and is intended for applications like refrigeration. NG for electronics because the melting temp and the solidifying temp are too far apart.
What you want is 2% silver bearing solder that is 62/36/2 in most cases. Rat Shack sells this as well as the *other* stuff. It's made by a good reputable mfr of solder and works well.
The stuff you want is "eutectic" solder, meaning the alloy melts and solidifies at the same temperature.
There are some adjustable temperature Weller irons being sold by most of the surplus and main line electronics places for about $40 - that's way better than the cheezy black handle imported junk you find around, or even the 35 watt non temperature controlled irons with the colored handles. The worst thing for a good solder joint is TOO much or too LITTLE heat.
I use only a temperature controlled solder station, gives consistant results, since if you sink heat away, it turns on the heater, and vice versa.
The other thing that varies is the "activity" of the flux - active flux is good for corroded or difficult to solder things, whereas "mild" flux is what usually is found, and works well.
Now you know more about soldering than you wanted to...