How do I set anti skate on Nottingham Anna arm????

Please help me get the last adjustment dialed in on my new turntable that is finally ready to use. I have been trying to wait patiently to start listening to records. Last night I was lucky enough to have my buddy come and help me set up my table/arm/cartridge. We couldn't get the anti skate figured out. Please let me know if I am missing something. Thanks very much.
There is a weirht at the end of the L shaped wire. move it out toward the end to increase force, in toward the bend decrease, 3/4 of the way out is a good starting point. Some models have small marks on the shaft representing .5 grams.

I have tried putting it in every position with the same result, it skates to the middle. I am really baffled. Thanks for your help with this.
It sounds like you are trying to use a blank disc to set the anti-skate. I never was able to get that to work either as the weight to neutralize is MUCH too high (this method ignores the friction of the groove).
The simplest way to start IMHO is to set the anti-skate weight at a reasonable starting point and inspect the (L/R)angle of the cantilever as you raise and lower the stylus, then adjust the weight up and down until the cantlever deflection is neutral.
There are much more sophisticated methods which require special discs or equipment, but I don't find this adjustment to be super critical.
Don't use the blank groove on the Nottingham platter "dust cover". As per Tom Fletcher:

"set the anti-skating so that the arm slighlty stalls at the leadout groove before gently moving towards the spindle".

You could always buy a copy of the Hi-Fi News test record with the tracks for setting anti-skating. I have one, but don't care to use it. I just do what Tom suggested.

Fully agree with Oldears and Ozzy. The blank disc method is flawed in principle.

The antiskate tracks on the HFN&RR test record mentioned by Ozzy are also flawed. It's easy enough to use the three "tracking test" tracks on side 2 to adjust antiskate, but the method described by Oldears is equally effective.

Antiskate is a compromise adjustment that can never be "perfect", so there's little point in going crazy over it. Once you've gotten accustomed to the sound of your (nice!) new rig, you can fine tune it by listening to music.
If you notice that your cart. is mistracking in one channel only, that is an indication that the anti-skating needs adjustment. If I remember correctly (and I sure if I am wrong someone will correct me) the inner groove wall is the right channel and the outer wall has the left channel information. So, say the cart. is breaking up in the left channel. That would indicate that more tracking force is being applided to the inner wall; so you'd increase the anti-skating force to compensate. Conversely, if it was breaking up on the right channel you'd decrease the Anti-skating force. This is an issue with my Shelter 90X. Tracking near the mfg. limit, the anti-skating has to be close or it will break-up in one channel or the other on the inner grooves near the label.
BTW, you can do much to improve the sound of your rig by ditching the MDF plinth that comes with the Spacedeck in favor of a Neuance platform. Just as an experiment, try the table directly on your rack, sans the Nott base. I think you will like what you hear. Then get in touch with Ken Lyon and have him make you a custom Neuance shelf. It really opens up the sound and improves dynamics.

I can ditto that! I have a custom Neuance shelf for my Hyperspace. The charchol color of the shelf is almost an exact match with the carbon platter of the TT. Very cool looking. It replaces the top shelf of my rack.
Thanks for all the great replies and suggestions. This anti skate makes much more sense now. Ozzy, I took it off the MDF plinth & put it on my rack & it does sound pretty good. I can't tell if I am telling myself it sounds better, but it seemingly does. I will look into the neuance shelf when funds allow. I have to grow my vinyl collection now that I know how this tt sounds setup. There really is a high res format with more than a few titles I am interested in. Finally! I am thinking I should probably place upgrades in the following order (please feel free to make suggestions): VPI RCM, Phono stage, cartridge, neuance shelf. Does that order sound right? I have a new Spacedeck, 10" Anna tonearm, Dynavector 20xh, & using the built-in MM phono stage of my DK Design integrated currently. Would you analog experts upgrade in a different order???? Thanks for helping me enjoy this hobby. Big thanks to my friend and Audiogon member Lincolnl for helping me get this set up.
I would place the phono stage at the top of your list. This can make a huge improvement in your vinyl playback. The Dyna is pretty good, so it would be the last thing I would replace. Afte the phono stage I would go with the Neuance shelf, then the RCM. Until then, you can always hand clean your records and let them air dry in a rubber dish drainer. Not as good as vacuuming them, but it will get you by.

Ozzy62 and I part ways on this one. A RCM is mandatory. No phono stage, however bad, will damage your records. Playing them uncleaned will. This is one of the few 100% guarantees in audio.

A better phono stage will certainly be a worthwhile investment, but for the sake of your vinyl a RCM must come first. In fact it must come immediately. Do not play any record you value until it has been properly cleaned.

I did not discount the importance of cleaning records. I have a Nitty Gritty myself which sees lots of action. But I have friends who have lots of records who don't own a RCM, but still clean their records in the sink. Not the preferred method, but as I said before, it will get you by. Maybe a better alternative would be the Audio Advisor Record Doctor, which is pretty cheap, then sink the rest of the cash into the upgraded phono stage.


Excellent suggestion. I wonder how much difference there really is between an inexpensive NG, Record Doctor or KAB vs. a VPI. They all share the same operating principle (felt-covered vacuum slot), so one wonders if the 2-4 times more costly VPI really cleans that much better.

Washing in the sink, if that implies using tap water, proved unsatisfactory for us. Tap water contains impurities that can be difficult or impossible to remove from a record. When I was young and innocent I tried it. The records got cleaner in general of course, but quite a few picked up noises that weren't there before. Neither my old DIY RCM nor my Loricraft can remove those impurities. I had to re-purchase several fairly expensive records after tap-water cleaning ruined them. :-(

Call me a purist, but the better one's gear the cleaner the vinyl needs to be. Nicksgem10s is already well up the equipment ladder and seems prepared to move higher still.