How best to eliminate LP warps
I own about 2500 LPs, and I like to think they're flat. Furthermore, I espoused the view that warped LPs ought to be discarded. But lately I have found 2 or 3 of my LPs that do have warps but sound too good and are too precious for the music recorded on them to throw away. So I am in the market for ideas on how to remove warps. I am aware that there was a device on the market that looked like a large waffle maker, to be used for warp removal. I think Furutech made it, but I never see it advertised these days. I am also aware of the DIY method of placing an LP between two glass plates and heating the ensemble. The question there would be how hot and for how long? Any suggestions are welcome, especially opinions on the efficacy of the Furutech. Thanks. Please no comments on vacuum hold down; I think it's a great idea but none of my five turntables has that feature.
@jazzguy43 , I would suggest that it is more a matter of correctly applying the laws of nature to a given situation that matters. Second Law is especially tricky to use - I’ve seen it used to explain why methane explodes in an enclosed volume, but not otherwise. Of course, it was a bogus ’proof’ - tipoff was that it did not use the particular properties of methane. Experiment is always better than derivation, if feasible, although I’d be the last to abandon the latter. |
| Post removed |
| Post removed |
A couple months ago I emailed Phillip Holmes at Mockingbird about the Orb Record Flattener. If you’re interested, I received this email from him today: Hello,
If you already bought an Orb DF01ia record flattener, please delete this email. If not, please keep reading.
I took a break from selling Orb record flatteners. After the positive review by Michael Fremer, the problems I had with getting stock just got much worse. Before the review, it was difficult: it's difficult to get them here (customs clearance, etc..), they are back-ordered, they are huge, they generate a lot of questions like "my record didn't come out absolutely hypothetically perfect, am I using it wrong...", "when will my machine arrive", and so on. So I haven't sold any since November. If you are interested in placing an order, and waiting for them to come in, I will work with you on pricing. But I assume it's going to be 6~8 weeks, maybe longer. I contacted the factory, and I am waiting to hear from them on the delivery time.
People are confused about the "plus" model. Grooveguard is the raised edge and label area on most normal vinyl pressings. They created that feature to protect the playing surface from record changers, hence it was "grooveguard" because it guarded the grooves. The "+" version is the same as the regular version, except for the inclusion of plastic sheets to protect the playing area on records that are flat, meaning they don't have a raised outer lip or raised label. The records without a grooveguard (without a raised label, without a raised outer lip/rim) fall into two categories: very old pressings, and 200 gram audiophile pressings.
With a pair of scissors, some parchment paper or poster board, you can create your own versions of the plastic sheets that cost an extra $200. Just think "paper donuts", and you have the concept. If it is smaller than the record, but fits around the label, it's the right size donut. But, if you want the official plastic sheets, the plus model works fine!
People often ask about "will these work on American outlets"? Yes, they will accept regular 120VAC North American power.
A little backstory: I am a nurse, mostly because I don't like working on and talking about machines 24/7, and people are more challenging (and potentially more rewarding). I work at a county run MHMR in Texas, helping people with mental illness and addiction (usually both). So I am not available during "normal" business hours.
Best Regards, |
@bslon , I made my "donuts" out of felt. Works great. |
