Oh one more option that caphill likes to recommend is the Classe Sigma SSP processor. It supports 4K, however only supports HDCP 2.2 through one input (HDMI input 4). It is also a very nice processor, but as good as it is, it does not have discrete analog stages like the Marantz. The Classe is quite a bit smaller, so if size is an issue, than Marantz may not be an option. The Marantz is definitely a beast. The Classe Sigma SSP is in the same $2500 price range. There's actually one for sale from TMR Audio for $2408.
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In a comparison, Marantz AV8802a with fuse upgrade VS Classe Sigma SSP, I honestly do not know which one would win. Personally, I would actually go with the Marantz and work with fuse/power cord upgrades because of the fully discrete analog stages. In all my R&D and testing with circuits, as good as monolothic op amps can be, they never reached the sound quality of fully discrete analog stages. My own personal opinion, of course.
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Agree. That
Denon AVR-4308CI
is already at the top level of receiver power supply capability. You are not going to get anything better by upgrading to something newer, other than support for 4K.
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It would be better to get a really high current multi-channel amplifier for those B&W speakers. If you are looking at new within $2k, the best I could recommend is the Emotiva XPA-DR3 amp. It's a fully balanced / differential 3 channel amp. Then use the receiver to power any surrounds that you have. There are others and if you look at used, then things get complicated as all the amps sound radically different. Emotiva is obviously not the best amp, but it is extremely good for the money and very neutral sounding (not too warm, not too bright) and has a lot of current and attack/detail.
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I actually tried the SP3 in my system. Before I speak, you should probably know that I am extremely highly critical of equipment and sound - to the point where others say that I'm splitting hairs, lol. A sound extremest, if you will.
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That being said, I tried working with the SP3 a lot. It definitely had very good sound quality, probably the best bass I ever heard from a processor, but the sound was just too laid back for me. I could hear that the Class A audio stages were very good, but I just did not get enough attack / slam / detail in the mids and upper mids for my tastes. Also, I don't think I was getting good resolution output. I believe the Digital/DAC board is compromised in the SP3 because they use an off-the-shelf digital board from Momentum Technologies. So, I think the sound will not be quite as clean as other processors. With all that, it could be that you would like the SP3 just fine. It has a big following over on Audio Circle and AudioAficianado forums and many people rave about the SP3.
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Ultimately, my older Krell HTS 7.1 was highly superior in sound quality, but was very old. After trying multiple processors, I run with a Krell S1200U, which is just about the best sound quality processor in my opinion. However, it is just a little older and doesn't support 4K.
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Because of your 4K requirement, it is going to be difficult to find a good processor in your budget. I think the only thing I would recommend is to go get a previous generation Marantz AV8802a. They are readily available "new-in-box" from ebay and sellers such as Crutchfield at the $2500 level. They are excellent sound quality, has very large main power supply and excellent local power supply capacitors on the DAC I/V board, and also has fully discrete analog output stages. The Marantz has excellent sound quality, but is voiced to be warm sounding. The upgrade the fuse to something like Hi-Fi Tuning Supreme or Silverstar to reduce the "warmth" and increase the clarity/detail. I think that's about the best you can do.
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I tested the latest Marantz AV8805 in my system and was quite impressed. It had very good slam and impact, but my Krell S1200U just beat it on high frequency clarity and detail (something that can be easily fixed by fuse upgrade).
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Like I said before, probably the first thing you can do is to buy a multi-channel amp and connect it to your Denon receiver using the Denon "pre-outs". That would give you a big jump in ability to let your B&W speakers shine! Then you can always replace the Denon with an HT Processor in the future (with additional amps for the remaining channels if you need them). Many amps will have a 12V remote turn on trigger, so the only thing you need to do is click the "power" button on the HT Processor remote and all your amps will turn on automatically (so it will almost be like using a receiver).
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Or you can get HT Processor and amp(s) at the same time.
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uhm, no. I'm suggesting adding an amplifier to connect to your current Denon receiver.
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You were asking about the Bryston SP3, which is a HT Processor. This is not a "receiver". It is a mult-channel preamp/processor and still requires an amplifier. If you are looking for an HT Processor, it becomes difficult to get a good one for your budget because of your requirement to support 4K through HDMI.
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The first thing we really talked about in this thread is the ability for a receiver to drive your B&W speakers properly. Since you already have the most powerful receiver, we are suggesting an amplifier first. You can use RCA cables to connect the amplifier to the receiver to power individual speakers.
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Yes, you could get a HT Processor like the Bryston SP3 or Marantz AV8802a and use the "Ext. In" inputs on the back of your Denon to use the Denon "as an amplifier". However, the signal would still be going through the preamp section of the Denon. It would almost defeat the purpose of getting a high quality HT Processor in the first place. Using the Denon "Pure Direct" mode may help a little bit here, but your still going through Denon preamp circuits. So, ultimately, you'll have to decide what is a higher priority for you -- either 4K support or sound quality.
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If 4K support is first priority, then yes you can get an HT Processor now like the SP3 / AV8802a. And then get an amplifier later.
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If sound quality is first priority, then I would say get the amplifier now and use the Denon receover as an HT Processor/preamp. Then get a real HT Processor later.
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The XPA-DR3 is pretty much the best amp they have now because it uses fully balanced/differential amps (there are 2 amp boards per channel). So, it is definitely limited to 3 channels. Emotiva does has non-balanced amps with more channels. The 5-channel XPA-5 is $1599 and the 7-channel XPA-7 is $1999. Both are about the best I can recommend "new" for the money at this level. The Emotiva is 8" high. Also, on these amps, you really need to have at least a couple inches of space above the amps with no restriction on the front/back to allow for heat dissappation.
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If you don't mind used, there is a Rotel RMB-1585 on audiogon for $2099. (new retail is $3000). This would be a very nice amp and is actually more refined sounding than the Emotiva. It is silver in color, if that is a concern. It is also 9.4" inches high.
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Those two are the best I think are available now at your budget level.
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Interesting. Sorry, I do not have any direct experience with the Monolith products. It's a full linear power supply where the Emotiva is switching power supply. I do have much experience with Emotiva amps, having had several over the years. Up to you, but I would probably spend more on the Emotiva because of XLR balanced inputs and that I know it has pretty good amp boards. Good luck on your testing.
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I heard Rotel at RMAF and I will have to say that it is a very nice and refined amplifier. Obviously, it's not going to be in the higher priced "Krell" or "Parasound" league, but it is extremely good and much better than Emotiva (I have actually owned three different models of Emotiva monoblocks). That review on Monoprice could have some element of truth to it because the current generation of Emotiva uses switching power supply, which doesn't always have a lot of bass authority. The linear power supply of the Monolith could be transferring the bass power a lot better. But the Rotel will sound much better than either. Over the years and testing with different equipment, I have found that, in the end, you really get what you pay for. Of course, there are many variations of sonic signature, but if you are looking for sound quality and refinement, there are no real cheap shortcuts. The Emotiva will have good sound for the money, and the Monoloth may have good for the money as well, but realize that you are making compromises here. If, ultimately, your budget cannot do the Rotel, then that's perfectly okay. Just keep a realistic picture of what you're getting.
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Congratulations!!! I look forward to your results!!
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You sure can do the Blue Jeans cables. They are likely going to be better than the crap RCA cables that typically come with TVs and stuff. But keep in mind these are also a compromise and will not allow your Denon/Rotel to "sing". I tried some of the Blue Jean "Beldon" 1694A cables for interconnects. They did have good resolution and authority, but the sound was just "meh" in emotional engagement. There are so many better cables, but of course they cost more. lol. Still, if you are doing this as a "temporary fix", it's still better than other alternatives. One note on these cables - the LC-1 cable is a single solid-core 25awg conductor. Great that it's solid-core (much better than stranded). However, in my testing, the smaller awg conductors had good high frequency response, but just did not let the music "breathe" and they also had weak bass impact. You really need to look for a minimum 21awg solid-core interconnect (which is what Audioquest are).
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As far as the Salamander, I would say get whatever works. But keep in mind that even though caphill says the Rotel amp does not get hot, you still need adequate ventilation above the amp and open space on the front and back of the amplifier. When caphill says "the amp doesn't get hot", he really means that "it doesn't get roasting hot like a lot of high bias Class AB or full Class A amps". The Rotel will still warm up some and it's always best to allow for heat dissipation.
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Oh, and on the Salamander, I would leave off the back panel on the amp section, since the amp is so big that it would block your view of anything behind it anyways! lol
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The HTM1 is the older version. The HTM3S "S" series are the latest version aluminum dome tweeter before B&W went to a diamond tweeter. With the "S" series, they were able to increase the resonance/breakup frequency of the aluminum dome tweeter to something like 28khz (if I remember right). This reduces the amount of breakup/distortion and brightness/harshness of the tweeter.
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There are a few HTM3S speakers on ebay ranging from $1800 to $2500. The $2500 has the nicer wood finish and also a stand. There's one HTM1 for $1150, so it is going to be cheaper. It all depends on what you want to spend, but I would hold out for an HTM3S for the tweeter that is less harsh.
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Well, you already have the "older brighter" tweeter in your current HTM2 center. However, the Rotel amp you just bought is going to be a higher resolution and higher current amp than your Denon receiver (something that is important to make these B&W speakers "sing"!). I would almost say to wait until you had the Rotel playing in your system before making a decision. That extra resolution and current could actually increase the response and harshness of your center tweeter and that would tell you whether or not you could live with the cheaper HTM1.
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That being said, when comparing to your current HTM2:
- HTM1 will have clearer midrange because of the B&W separate midrange driver. It will also have deeper bass authority, which will give better tonal definition to male voices in movies. I recommend setting the center to "FULL" or "LARGE" in your Denon so that it plays full range and does not send anything to the sub.
- HTM3S will have the same clearer midrange and deeper bass, but it will also have less harsh highs.
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So yeah, ultimately, the HTM3S would be better and I would definitely buy that instead, but it is dependent on where your "point of diminishing returns" is and what your willing to spend.
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TIP: Both the HTM1 and HTM3S are rear vented. This means that you should space it away from the front wall just a little bit (like 12"). And make sure you do not have any sound absorption material against that front wall that could "absorb the bass coming from the vents".
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Tell him that you are very interested but want to hear how the Rotel plays with your current HTM2 first. If he's offering this price to you now, I'm sure he'll still offer it in 1-2 weeks. It's not like he gets shipping discount. It still costs to ship the HTM1 because it will be packaged in a separate box. lol. The only risk is that he might sell it before you're ready to buy, lol.
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Well, then you definitely have your answer. Sounds like you really want this HTM1, so why not? lol
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so, did you end up getting the HTM1?
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That's really awsome! It's amazing on how good a particular set of speakers will sound if you match a really good high current amp! You are now getting into the "really good stuff" area!
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"
The distinction between individual instruments is striking." -- This is what i call "separation of instrument" and you need to have a really good amp to do this best. I'm happy that you're receiving such a positive result on this!! And WOW, you bought an 8802a already? What happened to the $2,000 budget? lololol -- this actually happens to us audiophiles SO MUCH!
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Onto the 8802a! When you get it hooked up and first listen, your first impressions might be "where did the detail and clarity go". Like I said before, it is voiced warm, so it will have rolled off highs. But if you listen closely, I think you will find that the audio is overall more natural and "true" sounding. I suspect it will be more fuller sounding with more impact as well. We can tune this to be higher resolution, but first we want your general impressions on how you feel it sounds!
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Panasonic DP-UB820. Well, I suppose you could get this, but in my opinion, there are much better transports. The Panasonic does have 7.1 analog audio outputs, but why would you need those if you have an HT Processor like the 8802a? The Panasonic does not even have a digital COAX output, which is something I think is critical for sound quality (it only has optical, which is a really bad digital interface).
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A much better bluray "transport" would be the Sony UBP-X1000ES at the same $499 price point. I have had Sony bluray players in the past and they really make pretty darn good "digital transports". It has a digital coax output, which will give you superior sound quality for 2-channel PCM audio as well as old school compressed Dolby Digital and DTS (yes, even DD/DTS sounds better through digital coax when compared to HDMI). The only time you want to use audio through HDMI is when you are playing blurays with the higher resolution Dolby TrueHD and DTS-MA HD audio formats. The sony player also has a very excellent collection of streaming apps (netflix, amazon, pandora, etc.). It also has a conventional IEC input, so you can do power cord upgrades if you wish.
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Another bluray choice could be the Yamaha BD-A1060. I think it may have better power supply than the Sony with metal shields between power supply and audio circuits. It does have 2-channel XLR audio outputs, if you want to try that, but I think the 8802a digital will sound better. This also has IEC for power cord upgrades.
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The thing about HT processors is that they lose their value really fast. The 8802A is selling "used" between $1500 and $1800 nowadays. About 6 or 8 months ago it was at the $2000-2200 range.
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Wow. I'm really sorry that you felt like you went backwards in some ways with the Marantz. When I tested the 8805 in my system, I was using all my very high end power cords and interconnects and everything. The only thing I did not do was upgrade the fuse in Marantz to a Hi-Fi Tuning silver (which is something I would have totally done). We only had the Marantz in my system for one afternoon. When I say "it had good impact", I mean it had good punch in the midbass and midrange impact. A good amount of punch-you-in-the-chest impact and stuff like snare drums hit with authority. The high frequencies were definitely rolled off, but it was not that bad. Your situation could be from stock fuse and power cords and stuff. It could also be that your using the previous owner's Audessey setup, and I would love to hear if this was the case. Doing a factory reset is always a recommended thing because you don't know what the existing configuration is doing to your sound. That being said, I will make comments based on what you're hearing now.
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So, I guess the first question is to whether or not you want to work with the Marantz to try to get it to sound better. This could be just adding a silver fuse into the Marantz. But it could also mean you need to upgrade the power cords and possibly the interconnects. This could mean spending hundreds of dollars on "tweaking your system for the Marantz". We just won't know until we get there - doing one step at a time.
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When you say you "kept feeling like you had to turn up the volume and had to strain to hear certain things", I think I know what you mean. If the equipment is too warm/slow sounding, it will cause the upper midrange and highs to become too soft and laid back. This will prevent the more subtle sounds from cutting through, especially when there is a lot of different sounds going on, and you may not feel you're getting the full impact of sound crispness and clarity and sharpness.
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The first tweak for the Marantz (if you want to try working with it) is to upgrade the fuse. Do you feel comfortable taking off the top cover of the Marantz? It's very easy. The top cover can be removed just by removing the screws that hold it in place. The fuse or fuses should be on a small board that is very close to the power cord socket. On these processors, it is usually a small fuse, but you should check. If the fuse is less than 1" long, then it is the small 5x20 size. If it is longer than 1", then it is the large 6.3x32 size. Parts Connexion is selling the older Hi-Fi Tuning Silverstar for 60% off - $16 for a small fuse. They have a couple of the 1.8A left (I recommend getting a 2A fuse if possible). This silver fuse should improve the clarity and impact a good amount. If this doesn't get you all the way, we can still upgrade the power cord as well, which will make a difference too. The goal would be to get as much silver elements into the power supply system as possible. Please be aware that the silver fuse will require a 7-10 day burn-in before it settles down.
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I had originally recommended the Marantz because I am a firm believer in discrete analog stages. It is pretty amazing that Marantz can deliver a processor that has 14 fully discrete analog output stages for $4k retail!!! To get an 8 channel discrete processor, you have to look at the Bryston SP3 which retails for $9.8k or Krell S1200U which retailed $12.5k!!
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In all of my testing with different circuits and listening to many different systems, the devices that use op amps can sound good, but they just do not "sing" like a discrete circuit. However, it could be that you might want to cut your losses with the Marantz and re-sell it. In that case, I can think of a few options:
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Yamaha CX-A5100. This will probably get you back closer to the sound of the Denon. New is $2500, but used are in the $1800-2000 range. There is actually a used one on audiogon for $1345. Obviously, no discrete analog stages, but it may likely sound better than your Denon receiver.
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Anthem AVM 60. This is probably the highest resolution processor in the budget range (before going to the Krell Foundation). retail $3k. Used in the $2200 to $2600 range. There's a "new in box" one on ebay for $2488.
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Or go back to using your Denon receiver as a preamp for now. You seemed very happy with the sound, but realize that there are some compromises to be had (i.e. there were some things with the Marantz that out-shined the Denon).
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I would not worry too much about the age of the HTS1000. The primary filter elements use film capacitors and coils, which really don't wear out. The HTS1000 does use a couple of electrolytic capacitors, which do dry out over time, but unless you're getting a buzzing sound, you can definitely put a replacement power conditioner lower down on the priority list. On that 6 foot extension, if it's not a heavy gauge cord, I would recommend going down to Home Depot or something and getting one of those extra heavy duty 12awg power cords. They are cheap and the large 12awg will not restrict current. ---- One other thing I noticed is you said you are playing CD audio over HDMI. This is a bad bad thing (most people don't realize this). I would highly recommend getting some digital COAX cables. This is what I generally recommend for the money: https://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/digital-audio/index.htm Get the Beldon 1694A cable and make sure it's minimum 6 feet (even if you don't need the length). At $20.75 per cable, it's really cheap and does much better than HDMI. Get one cable for each source device you have (bluray, cable/satellite box, etc.). You should be able to configure the Marantz to use a different digital input for audio. I would configure two different setups for Bluray. One setup uses audio through HDMI - you would use this input configuration only for bluray discs that have TrueHD or DTS-MA HD audio. Then create a second input configuration that uses that HDMI for video and digital COAX for audio. Use this for all other things, such as CD and DVD movies. |
Oh, you already have the
Panasonic DMP-DB35. That doesn't even have a digital COAX, so I would not bother getting coax cables now, unless you want to. It's not worth it to try a good toslink cable because you are already thinking of replacing the Panasonic. lol. ---- Those Silverstar fuses are pretty much a steal at this price, and because they are 100% silver, they are definitely what you need to add speed to Marantz. Normally, the upgrade fuses are in the $60-90 price range and are definitely expensive. --- The Power cord $50 estimate is actually extremely low. If you were able to DIY a bit and cut/reterminate a plug, then I could probably recommend something anywhere from $150 to $450 investment for a really good power cord. Otherwise, for $50 range, you are looking at something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-5M-5ft-Element-Power-Cord-Cable-Wattgate-and-Marinco-HighEnd-Audiophile-U-S-A/253938496557?hash=item3b1fe9f42d:g:GYUAAOSwHPNbKEpK:rk:7:pf:0 It won't be a great power cord, but the Wattgate connectors will increase speed and impact. The problem is I have found that the brass connectors can "push too hard" and become harsh sounding. Here's another option if you want: https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Ft-Silver-Plated-12AWG-IEC-AudioPhile-Power-Cord-Cable-W-Wattgate-Connectors/151904760005?epid=859384614&hash=item235e3ab0c5:g:4PkAAOSwv-NWYRZg:rk:8:pf:0 silver plated wire with wattgate connectors - will push super hard on the voltage. ---- In my opinion, the best way is to get a very nice solid core power cord and then chop the ends and re-terminate using a Furutech silver plated IEC and a Cardas rhodium/silver male plug. This could be a $200-250 investment or more. |
This only relates to digital cables. If the cable is too short, what happens is when the digital pulse hits the target device, some of the charge will actually be reflected back to the source equipment. This "reflected pulse" will interfere with the newly generated pulses and actually cause some of the pulses to be cancelled out, therefore creating errors in the digital transmission. The result can be heard as smeared or lower resolution sound. So, for any digital cable (digital COAX, USB, HDMI), I always recommend at least a 6 foot. The experts say that you should have a minimum 1.5 meter cable (4.5 feet), but I always go 6 feet to be safe.
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This does not apply to power cables or interconnects. Power cables and interconnects can be as short as you need them (but I always say it's good to have just a little bit extra length in case you need to move equipment around a little).
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Hiya caphill. I know you and both love audio and you love recommending and building the perfect system. But let's not get overzealous just yet. awilder has just picked up the 8802a and he's already wayyy over budget. I don't think he's anywhere near considering something like a Oppo 205 OR even a Moddwright Oppo 205 ... or even considering a separate 2-channel preamp.
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I think our first goal should be getting the Marantz 8802a to work well in his system. Power cords are definitely a factor, but so is the budget he has to work with. :) I suggested the fuse upgrade because it's actually the cheapest upgrade and will significantly improve things. The power cords are going to be a lot more expensive. And we haven't even gotten to interconnects.
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@awilder - you mentioned trading your RCA interconnects back to Blue Jean Cable to get some XLR cables. I just wanted to let you know that I think the Blue Jean "LC-1" RCA cables are better than the two XLR cables they have. The reason is the LC-1 uses a solid-core 25awg conductor. Both of their XLR cables use a stranded 24awg or 26awg conductor.
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Regarding the Connex power cord. They are going to be low cost tinned or OFC copper, and they are going to be stranded bundles of wires for each conductor. The plugs are going to be low cost brass plugs. Gold plated will give a slightly warmer sound with softer highs. You could try them if you wanted to, but there are better options. ---- If you wanted a decent power cord in this price range, I would look at the Pangea power cords from Parts Connexion. They are mostly solid-core or litz wires with good gold-palted copper plugs. You can get a 9 awg cord for the amp if you want. I think this will be about the best you can do, but expect to pay up to $199 or so. I consider this a "final buy" power cord because the make-up of the litz polymer coated wires makes it extremely difficult to chop and re-terminate with a better IEC or male plug. But if you wanted the best power cord in this range, this is what I would recommend. ---- You can try either above power cords for your amp (Pangea would be better). For the Marantz, I would give this a try: https://www.ebay.com/itm/AudioQuest-NRG-5-AC-Power-Cord-Cable-2m-6FT/142991388935?hash=item214af37107:g:xg0AAOSw0QBb1LQg:rk:36:pf:0 The NRG-5 is all solid-core OCC type copper with very low restrictive insulation. It's really a 14awg power cord, but the best quality. It does have gold-plated copper plugs, so if it's not detailed enough in the sound, you can always chop the ends and cut/strip the wires for a new Furutech silver-plated or rhodium-plated IEC plug. |
Oh crud, I meant to say "Audio Advisor". Sorry, Pangea is only available from Audio Advisor. I think they are their dedicated reseller. If you are looking at the AC9 model, there are two:
---AC 9 MKII - $174 for 2 meter.
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AC 9SE MKII - $249 for 2 meter. It's more expensive, but uses more "Cardas" conductors and better copper.
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And your Rotel amplifier should be plugged directly into a wall outlet (not through any power strip or power conditioner).
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Couple of things I’m going to re-iterate. That digital COAX cable is good for everything except a few scenarios:
- Bluray with Dolby TrueHD
- Bluray with DTS-MA HD
- Some streaming that uses Dolby Digital Plus. I have seen sometimes if you try using digital COAX for Dolby Digital Plus where the sound may have "skipping" problems every few seconds when the processor tries to synch or it may only give you the 2-channel left/right channels. In this case, you must use Dolby Digital Plus over HDMI.
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Feel free to upgrade your bluray player if you want. It might improve the sound a little, but I don’t think it will give you that visceral and spatial imaging you are craving. And the digital COAX will, ultimately, only improve the sound on 2-channel PCM audio and old DVD movies.
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" lack of clear imaging " - heh, I keep recommending this fuse upgrade because it is such a cheap investment, it’s almost a no-brainer. While the Marantz is very excellent at giving a full and true sounding waveform, it is rolling off the upper mids and highs. The fuse would put the audio back into focus and would really improve clarity and spatial imaging. A power cord upgrade can also help here, but it becomes hugely more expensive and it can be difficult to match the proper power cord. Making the highs more clean/clear could help reduce that "fatiguingly bright" effect because a warm sound will actually smear the highs and make them more harsh. Or, it could be that you are just now hearing the problems with those aluminum tweeters on a full range system. Or it could be you are hearing problems with harshness caused by the low cost interconnects, or even low cost stranded speaker wire. lol. Stock power cords can also create a bright/harsh fatiguing sound on a very high resolution system. Welcome to the wonderful world of tweaking audiophile systems.
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For acoustics, if you definitely have a bass resonation in that corner behind the speaker, then putting a GIK Acoustics "Soffit" or "Tri-trap" in that corner will help. You can even stack two to make an 8 foot high bass trap.
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For that particular speaker, I would also put a normal acoustic panel right on the wall just in front of the speaker. This would be a normal 2-3" panel, like the GIK Spot Panel. Since the speaker is only a few inches away from the wall, it actually uses the wall to act like a "horn" that boosts certain frequencies with that first reflection point. Not a good thing, lol. Or I can advise you on how to make your own panel (it’s just some Owens 703 fiberglass that is covered with fabric such as Guilford of Main or something).
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Oh, if you order from Parts Connexion, they have a shipping option called "UPS Express". This is an overnight shipping and only costs around $15 or so for something small. However, somebody needs to be home to accept delivery because UPS requires a signature for this method. Otherwise, they ship normal UPS or US Mai (which is going to be 5-7 days).
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Yeah, starting to read comments on fuses will reveal that there are a lot of "naysayers" that cannot help stating that fuses do not make any difference and will not stop until they have the last word. They are much like religious extremests and it's hard to have a adult conversation with them. Add in that they refuse to even try a fuse because they are so against them and are constantly arguing for someone to "prove it makes a difference". lol. The people who have actually tried a fuse will 90% of the time say that it does make a difference in sound and mostly for the better.
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That being said, for me, fuse is a tool to help tune the sound. There really isn't a "best fuse" and I will comment on what I have tested:
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Hi-Fi Tuning Silverstar. This is 100% silver and, since silver is the best conductor, it is the fastest at transferring current. The result is a very fast and high resolution sound. Sometimes this "fast sound" can be too bright/harsh in some systems, but since we are working with the "warm" Marantz, we need that speed. I actually have a couple Silverstar fuses in a receiver that needs all the help it can get.
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Hi-Fi Tuning Supreme. These are 99% silver and 1% gold. It is still a very excellent fuse, but just a very tiny bit warmer than the Silverstar. If Silverstar is the fastest at 100% speed, the Supreme would probably be around 95% as fast/bright.
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Furutech - these are made from pure copper and the end-caps are rhodium plated, with anti-resonance filler inside the fuse. They are very excellent, but take forever to burn in (400-450+ hours). They are probably about 85% the speed of the Silverstar. They can be slower sounding than stock fuses, but they are much smoother and have better resolution.
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Isoclean or the Hi-Fi Tuning "Cu" fuse. These are pure copper with gold-plated endcaps. These are much warmer sounding and will soften the highs much more then the other fuses. They are a good tool if you have equipment that is too bright/harsh sounding.
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There are many people who love the BLUE fuse, but I have not tested it. It's very expensive at $150 and since I can get most things done with Furutech or Hi-Fi Tuning, I haven't made the jump to try the BLUE.
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I put the Silverstar out there as a very cheap recommendation.
And yes, that 2A Slo-Blo or "Extra Slow Blow" is what I would
recommend. If they don't have it in stock, you could go for a 2.5A or
1.8A.
I have used this fuse and it's very good. If you wanted to spend more and get a "Supreme" fuse, that's fine as well. The Silverstar is faster. If I had to judge, the Supreme might be just a little more refined sounding. There could be situations where the Silverstar is just a bit too fast/bright, but there could also be situations where you really need that fastest sounding fuse.
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Generally, you want as much current to the amp as possible. While not all power conditioners will restrict current, some do. The large transformer and power supply in the amp is usually very good at isolating noise from the A/C. While preamp/source components are more sensitive to noise and characteristics from the A/C.
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I like Audioquest cables because they are one of the only cables that is truly solid-core. Kimber interconnect cables are not bad either. Wire World is also an excellent cable (not quite solid core, but close because the individual conductor wires are arranged in a row instead of a bundle).
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For Y connectors, Audio Sensiblity is the best one I have seen. But they are all pretty poor quality. Your best bet is to get sombody to take a set of Audioquest or Kimber XLR interconnects and desolder the ends. then combine two cables and solder both cables into one XLR connector.
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Ok, a tip on the fuse install. Since you have a multimeter, you can test the fuse clip points. Remove the fuse. In most cases, one of the fuse clips will connect directly to one of the blades on the IEC inlet (usually the hot A/C conductor). The other fuse clip will connect into the transformer. When installing the fuse, you want the arrow on the fuse to point AWAY from the fuse clip that connects directly to the IEC plug. If both fuse clips appear to connect to IEC blades, then you need to figure out which of the points connects to the HOT A/C blade. You can google IEC to figure this out.
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awilder - do you have a digital multimeter or a continuity tester?
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