Hi-Fi Fuses - SNAKE OIL? - or something in it?


There's a lot of chatter about the benefits of those high prices gold plated fuses with silver conductor etc. etc. all over the web and the consensus ranges from FANTASTIC!!! to much more subtle observations.

It makes sense to me, epseically in light of spending lots of $$$ on good power cables, that having a skinny piece of aluminum conductor in a glass tube (i.e. a cheap fuse), in the power loop would be detrimental to the performance of the components.

I decided to revamp my DIY power supply I'd built for the Cambridge Audio 640p phono stage and DACmagic in order to test this out - and since it's a DIY project there is no UL Certification to void.

First, I bypassed the fuse link completely to confirm there would be an improvement and give me the best benchmark to compare against - YEP - BIG DIFFERENCE - much more this, that and the other :-)

So then I started looking for hi-fi fuses - WOW!!! - talk about pricey.

Two fuses for the power supply was going to cost $120+ AND I thought I'd probably have to buy a better quality fuse block to make the most of those fuses.

Then a moment of enlightenment - most power supplies and conditioners are protected by pushbutton breakers and not fuses.

I found breakers of the required current rating and installed them into the power supply. I imediately noticed that there was no deteriation in fidelity when compared to the same unit with the fuse link bypassed - GREAT!.

On reflection, the fuses I had in place were rated at 3 amps - so they use a pretty thin fuse wire in them. If I had used a fuse of a higher rating, i.e. it uses a thicker conductor, then I believe that there would be less of a difference between the fused and bypassed implementations

SO - do the expensive fuses work?

Well the empirical evidence out there would suggest they do
- I do know the cheap fuses are not good!

I know bypassing them does improve the sound - a lot in my case
- BUT THAT'S NOT SAFE FOR ONGOING USE

I know breakers work as good as bypassing the fuse
- BUT MESSING WITH A POWER SUPPLY VOIDS UL CERTIFICATION - NOT GOOD!
- FYI a couple of licensed technicians I know WILL NOT change the design of a power supply at all.

I believe the amount of benefit is related to the fuse rating
- but don't go replacing 3 amp fuses with a 20 amp fuse - that's not safe either.

Whilst looking for fuses I discovered AMR Gold fuses priced at $20/fuse.

Now that's definately more affordable than most others at 3-4 times their price.

One supplier I know of in the US is Avatar Aacoustics

If you have had experience with quality fuses please share - especially if they are "modestly priced" i.e. $20-$30 per fuse. And please provide a source :-)

Also, can anypne confirm that Slow blow fuses are better than regular?

And Remember - IF YOU AIN'T LICENCED - GET A TECHNICIAN!

Many Thanks
williewonka

Showing 30 responses by geoffkait

Which is best - Synergistic Research, Audio Magic Nano Liquid, HiFi Tuning Supreme, Furutech, Isoclean and AMR? And which is best when using WA Quantum Chip?
I suspect other WA Quantum Chip customers will agree with me that the chips are much more than band aids, inasmuch as they obviously reduce noise and distortion in audio systems. Better analogies might be variable valve timing, cryogenically treated piston rods and pistons, low mass wheels and low profile tires.
Mapman wrote,

"There may be other ways to accomplish that as well so in that sense they might be compared to a band aid, though the defect they address might never actually heal itself and most likely would get worse before it gets better."

Like the Intelligent Chip and Rainbow Foil or Cable Wraps from Highwire and Shun Mook, or even the Mpingo Disc from Shun Mook, even such pedestrian things like Tube Traps and acoustic resonators, not only do WA Chips bring things to the table that cannot be gotten some other way - one assumes you mean buying better components - LOL, don't you wish? - but they are essential for getting that "live, holographic sound, if you know what I mean. What we might actually have here is East is East and West is West and n'e'r the twain shall meet.
Mapman wrote,

"SOmehow, I have that live holographic sound without any of those. Go figure!"

Sounds like a Bose ad. No offense.

Mapman wrote,

"GEoff, you appear to be suggesting that using these products should be ones first priority for achieving the sound you describe. You are doing people a great disservice and damaging your own credibility even further, as usual."

I'll go out on a limb here and guess you assiduously avoid stepping on cracks of the sidewalk and walking under ladders. Am I right?

:-)
I may be treading on thin ice when I say if you can't hear the difference between a stock fuse and an aftermarket fuse, or between a stock fuse in one direction and the same fuse in the opposite direction, for that matter, then something's wrong somewhere. East is East and West is West and n'e'r the twain shall meet or put another way, live and let die. Lol
Next stop, Re-wiring all components and speakers, not to mention transformers and inductors with wire that is marked for proper direction. When does it ever stop? Answer at 11.
Well, with respect to the bulk tape eraser, I can imagine that demagnetizing the CD can have an effect on the laser since the laser beam is electromagnetic in nature. Charge, mass and spin. I think the issue is magnetism as opposed to static electrical charge, another problem, which can be death with using anti-static spray or an ionizer like the one Mapleshade used to sell or various Tourmaline based devices, among other things.
Jea48, thanks for posting the Bedini patent. Makes a lot of sense. ;-)
Mapman wrote,

"I actually rip all my CDs to music server these days. I never play a CD directly, so there is no music making occurring anywhere near the actual CD. Lots of bad things can happen in theory reading an optical disc in real time to make music."

It happens during the ripping process, too, I'm sorry to report. You know, what with the laser reading the data on the CD and everything, just like reading the disc in real time.

You wrote,

"I'll take that as a compliment." OK, let's say it was a compliment.

:-)
Radio shack bulk tape erasers should be easy and inexpensive to find on eBay for twenty bucks or so, at least the last time I looked. There is a bit of a trick to using bulk tape erasers on CDs and thst is not to hold it too close and only swirl it a couple times, oh, and before releasing the ON button hold the tape eraser well away from the CD.
Mapman wrote,

"What is it again about the sound that the Furutech fuses improve? WOuld turning up the volume some otherwise achieve similar results?"

I'm getting the distinct feeling a laughing goat award might be forthcoming.
Swampwater wrote,

"Geoff, what he really needs is for you to invent a quantum fan that will cool a COVERED pre-amp or better yet, teleport it to another dimension ;-) "

So, it sounds like what you're saying is the tubes are covered, too. No wonder the preamp gets so hot.

:-)
Mapman wrote,

""What is it again about the sound that the Furutech fuses improve? WOuld turning up the volume some otherwise achieve similar results?"

I thought that was a good question.

Geoff mocking it makes me think so even more."

Well, of course it makes you think so even more. That's the Backfire Effect in action. I kinda suspect in order to get to the bottom of a lot of these things like fuses it is most helpful to actually try them. Anyone can sit on the sidelines in the comfort of his easy chair and wonder.
Mapman, couple questions. Is it a BarcoLounger or a La-Z-Boy? And does it have one of those cool beer holders?
Mapman wrote,

"GEoff, I was expecting a refute or at least denial of my "charlatan" comment, not insults directed towards a chair."

My bad. I thought you called me a harlequin.
Mitch2, The bottom line: if someone is overly suspicious or not competent changing fuses and or insuring proper fuse direction he should probably not get into the whole fuse thing. On the other hand, if someone can't hear the effect of aftermarket fuses or fuse directionality, that's a different issue, and it might "point" to a larger problem. It's sometimes difficult to generalize about these things. For example one reason someone might not hear differences between a stock fuse and a HiFi Fuse is that they were both inserted in the wrong direction.
Mental, sounds like you need one of them new-fangled outboard fans; can I suggest the batty powered O 2 Cool fan?
Mental, so the 64K dollar question is, of course, did you try the fuse in both directions? One pill makes you small, one pill makes you tall.
Mapman wrote,

"Just remember, the mere action of removing and re-inserting a fuse alone COULD make a difference, if the new electric contacts are better/cleaner as a result of the process.

That aside, if one fuse sounds better/different than another in repeated test cases, that's hard to refute.

No way to know for sure beforehand. YMMV."

No one can accuse you of taking sides. :-)
And something is happening here
But you don't know what it is
Do you, Mister Jones ?

You have many contacts
Among the lumberjacks
To get you facts
When someone attacks your imagination
But nobody has any respect
Anyway they already expect you
To all give a check
To tax-deductible charity organizations.
You've been with the professors
And they've all liked your looks
With great lawyers you have
Discussed lepers and crooks
You've been through all of
F. Scott Fitzgerald's books
You're very well read
It's well known.

:-)
Mapman wrote,

"Regarding fuses, I would say its a fact that no two electrical devices, including fuses, are 100% equal. Even two instances of the same design may not function 100% equivalently. So it is reasonable to expect that each performs differently. How much so and to what effect is the only question case by case. Plus all teh things that go along with that to determine value, which is pretty much always in the eye of the beholder/consumer."

I don't think I've seem quite so much angst and bs in more than a fortnight.
Pack wrote,

"But if you do a square wave sweep thur a circuit with its well thought out fuse you will see no difference at all."

That's not true. You will see a better square wave. I.e., it's a better signal.

Cheers
Mitch2 wrote,

"Maybe the "snake oil" isn't that designer fuses don't change (or even improve) the sound, but maybe it has to do with what some are charging for those fuses compared to the relative level of sonic improvement you get compared to using regular fuses."

Most Aftermarket fuses are in the price range $24 to $60 with some around $100 or more. Kind of like electron tubes, one ought to weigh the cost vs performance, but how can you make a decision without listening first? That's the problem!

Mitch2 also wrote,

"How close to the sound of a designer fuse can you get by putting a little silver contact paste (Quick Silver Gold) on the ends of a Buss fuse and wrapping it a couple of times with teflon tape for damping?"

Good questions. But one must also ask, "how much better sound can you get by using Quicksilver Gold on the ends of a designer fuse?" And let's not overlook directionality, you can get some improvement in a stock fuse by just determining the correct direction. So, correct direction + damping the fuse + better conductivity with QSG. Seems like a good idea to me.

Mithc2 also wrote,

"How close does the Acme cryogenically treated Silver Fuse at $12 - $16 come to the pricier models from other companies selling for $50 to $100+?"

Difficult to say. There are a number of reasons why comparisons are difficult including time required for break in and the number of candidates for the evaluation. Are you volunteering? There is also the fuse holder to contend with, a silver plated cryo version appears to be a good place to start.
Lacee wrote,

"There was a time on another forum when these fuses first came out that I offered to buy and send an IsoClean free of charge to a sceptic and post his truthful findings. He declined the offer."

Geez, you'd think it was Invasion of the Body Snatchers or something.

Shirley Temple to J. Edgar Hoover: "I don't go all the way."

J. Edgar Hoover: "I don't go all the way, either."
Mitch2 wrote,

"That has been one of my issues with not only fuses but also connectors on equipment, etc. What is the weakest link? I believe Acme and Furutech both offer upgraded fuse holders if you want to try them. Actually, I have listened to several of the upgraded fuses including two HiFi Tuning types and the Furutech fuse. I used to have the standard HiFi Tuning fuses in all my gear. I honestly can't say I heard a big difference, especially compared to changing out electronics, or even cables. I have no problem with folks hearing a difference and spending their money to attain that difference, but for me the stock fuses seem to do just fine."

Of course stock fuses and ordinary connectors and ordinary cables and ordinary fuse holders do just fine. But we're not really addressing ordinary fuses and ordinary connectors and ordinary sound. We're talking about getting better sound. Unless you are willing to accept the good possibility that all wire is directional - fuses, interconnects, speaker wire, etc., even the wire in capacitors and transformers, the capabilities of a given system will be masked or constrained by all the wire, fuses, and cables that are not in the correct direction. Bit even stock fuses and stock interconnects can be reversed, no?
Dragon1952 wrote,

"IMO, to say that an upgraded fuse or power cord can't improve SQ because it "defies the laws of physics", or some other science, implies physicists and other scientists have learned 100% of everything there is to possibly know...which is pretty naive or arrogant if you ask me."

That's tellin' 'em, Dragon!
To reduce the toxic effects of magnetic fields on all wiring, electrical elements, etc. all transformers - especially big honking toroidal transformers and transformers the size of apartment buildings - should be entirely covered top, bottom and all around with at least two layers of mu metal, each layer separated by a narrow gap. Fuses should obviously also be protected by little mu metal houses. One of the big overlooked are those little innocuous looking ribbon cables that pop up everywhere in electronics these days,they are very vulnerable to both RFI and magnetic fields.
Some shields are for vicinity of big magnets of speakers which are high gauss high frequency, others like the typical mu metal these days is for low gauss low frequency applications such as around components, transformers.

Cheers,

Geoff Kait