2. pc-audio
  3. 1334334842

Help with fatiguing sound in my PC system

I replaced my Halo Pre and Denon changer with a PS Audio DL III. I run lossless music into it from iTunes on a PC (Windows 7 64bit, core i7, 16MB RAM), I use a Pangea USB cable into a MF V-link, then go into the DAC with a Wireworld ultraviolet coax. The increased detail, clarity, resolution and extension are remarkable, but so is the amount of listening fatigue. The highs are too much, but the music sounds muffled if I add the pre-amp back. My system is profiled in the link below. I have some ideas, let the voting begin:
1 - buy an offramp or a pacecar (can't afford it!)
2 - use better USB/coax/interconnects/speaker cable
3 - apply acoustic treatments to the room
4 - use a software player (Jplay) that sits on top of iTunes
5 - buy speakers with different tweeters (Quad 22L2/Focal 826v, this is happening, but not any time soon)
6 - get a better amp (McCormack/Odyssey, distant future)
7 - tweak Windows 7/iTunes settings (WASAPI exclusive mode?!?)
8 - adjust speaker position/toe in (already did this and it helped a little)
I am thinking about trying #3/#7 next. Ideas? Thnx in advance.
realremo

Showing 5 responses by davide256

davide256's avatar
davide256
395 posts
 
I'll be honest. There is no single magic bullet in my experience for listening fatigue. I have found all of these to matter for digital music

1. use PC source with asynch USB (check, you are doing that)
2. use a quality DAC (check, you are doing that)
3. use quality interconnects (check you are doing that)
4. use a quality PC media player (no, you are not doing that... consider JRiver or Foobar2000. At lower processor speeds Foobar is better but with the latest generation of CPU's JRiver is as good or better and much more user friendly. Itunes is pleasant but shallow in musical detail)

At this point your PC audio out shouldn't be the source of fatigue. Look to the rest of the system. Consider a Rogue Cronus or a Prima Luna integrated tube amp as a safe choice to bypass solid state issues that commonly cause listening fatigue. Leave speakers for last.. buying better speakers at this point will likely expose more to hate.
davide256's avatar
davide256
395 posts
 
since both of us use Dlink III's let me share that I didn't find that DLink direct to amp worked well, partially for the fatigue symptoms you describe but also for lack of richness in the midrange. I don't think the Dlink III is an optimal impedance match for an amplifier. I prefer the sound of the Dlink through both the CJ pre and the pre section of the Prologue to the Dlink III feed direct to the Prologue Home Theater inputs for direct to amp. The CJ being an older unit did require some capacitor replacments to be as fast as the newer Prima Luna.
davide256's avatar
davide256
395 posts
 
sbleam, I wasn't saying that the dlink III is fatiguing when used as intended... just that it was fatiguing when fed direct to amp, no pre in between. As described you are using a pre amp section for the Dlink III analog output. And yup, listening fatigue is frustrating. I'd say about 75% of my music collection is now edge/fatigue free when played, and 24 bit music seems to make a big difference vs 16 bit. The remaining 25% of 44.1khz/16 bit music has me constantly tinkering with better caps, interconnects and considering a better DAC purchase next year.

Of course the way HDtracks is going, by next year I might be able to retire all my 16 bit music with 24 bit replacements (grin) and bypass a new DAC.
davide256's avatar
davide256
395 posts
 
since last post I have acquired a JK MkIII sync USB to SPDIF converter to replace the Vlink. Beyond the order of magnitude improvement in fidelity, its made it enjoyable to listen to PC audio fed direct from DAC to amp and helped me diagnose some "edginess" issues on certain CD's as preamp exaggerated. Looks like the Dlink III will be next leaving my system since its 2006 design has become the limiting factor for musical detail. No question that the JK MkIII gets you far more musical enjoyment with the Dlink III than the 96khz Vlink and the combination eliminates the musical fatigue I encountered with the Vlink
davide256's avatar
davide256
395 posts
 
Realremo, I found that both USB and coax cable mattered but didn't spend a lot to get satisfaction. For USB I tried Audioquest Forrest, Pangea silver over copper and ended up with far better results from Pangea 24 gauge Pure silver.. better high frequency detail and imaging. Like wise Parts Connexion sells DIY Furutech components for FX-Alpha-Ag silver coax cable which I found bettered anything else for under $200, just some wire stripping and solder skill required for the termination of choice.
More to discover