Help: Best Audio CD-R and CD-RW Blanks?

I bought a Philips CDR 880 and am hoping that I can at least narrow the field without trying every CD-R and CD-RW that is available. I suspect that many brands are made by a few manufacturers and some sound better than others. Any tips will be appreciated.
Charlie Savoie
I use Mitsui unbranded silver and gold. I'd stay away from Maxell and the like.

I went through this entire exercise and found that Mitsui makes the best Audio CD-R and I would recommend their Gold ones if you can justify the cost.
What makes a CD-R good for Audio as opposed to good for data? I use Verbatim DataLifePlus for both and have been very happy with them. They are easy to buy (CDW or and are the most scratch resistant top surface of any that I have tested. The biggest danger in CD-R's is scratching the top where the film is laid and destroying the data. I make many CD-Rs so I can take my CDs to the car and not worry about messing them up.

The ValueLifePlus CD-Rs play perfectly in all my audio equipment.

Montana Rane
Maybe I've just had good luck but I've used all kinds of brands in my Pioneer and Tascam recorders and can't tell the slightest difference in quality, performance, and reliability while burning several hundred CDRs and CDR-Ws. These have been played in everything from cars to high-def systems. Enjoy your recorder.
Mitsui Gold no doubt about it. I recorded the same CD on both TDK silver and Mitsui Gold. The Mitsui Gold was so much better, it was hard to believe. I just ordered 100 of the TDKs and 25 of the Mitsui (just to try them) Now I want to throw out the TDKs and record only to the Mitsui.
I just did a double blind sonic comparison of Mitsu, Maxell, Sony, Imation and Phillips Cd-R's and the Mitsu beat em all. (yes, there is a sonic difference. If you don't hear any differences then either your playback system has flaws or your recorder is not very good.)

Something else that is not well known is that there are a couple of burners that can actually produce CD-R copies that are better sounding than the original. How can this be? Well, some burners use a buffering circuit that strips out the inherent jitter on the original cd and keeps it from getting to the copy. A good CD-R blank is also easier to read on your playback system with it having better optical qualities than the original cd and the tracks are already layed down in a pre-spiraled condition that has the playback machines' laser servo-focus mechanism not working as hard. I know all of the above sounds a little to good to be true, but this is the case. FYI: My deck, which is one that makes better sounding copies is the Pioneer pdr-739. A group of audiophiles tried a bunch of different decks, and this is the only stand alone audio burner that we found produces a better sounding copy.

BTW : If your phillips is a consumer stand alone (read: non computer burner) , then get the Mitsu SILVERS. According to Mitsu corporation, the golds for consumer audio are not available, just the gold cd-r's for computers. (I found out the hard way by ordering 100 golds and then realizing that these only work with computer burners). Don't worry though, the silvers are fantastic!
It sounds like there is a strong consensus favoring the Mitsu gold disks. If they are not available in audio CD format, I may have to try a little subterfuge. The tray of the Phillips CDR 880 can be easily opened manually. Apparently, if an audio CD blank is loaded then replaced with a computer CD blank after the tray is manually opened, it can be recorded as if it were an audio CD. Thanks for the info.Charles Savoie