I sould think as long as the wall mount is mounted correctly
{in wall studs with the proper size and length screws}there should be absolutely no problem handling a 50lb table. |
Thanks, which 50 lb table have you had on it? |
I have a very similar fear, but with the VW-2. I have a VPI Classic on the top shelf with a two inch maple shelf in between. I am going to guess that is 60lbs alone. On the lower shelf I have a Simaudio LP5.3 and a fairly light headphone amp. The VW-2 is rated for even less per shelf than the VW-1. Frankly, I don't fear that the arms of the shelf are going to simpy fold/collapse, but my fear is that the shelf could rip from the wall. Mine is anchored to wall studs on one side, but with drywall mollies on the other. The safe thing to do would be to fashion some sort of provisional props from the floor to within an inch or so of the bottom shelf arms to serve as a fail-safe, but it would look crappy. I think I will forgo asthetics though and do something soon. The thought of coming home one day and finding mass carnage is not something I can deal with. |
Years ago, I owned the Target shelf and used it with my SOTA. I didn't have any problems, but when I moved I didn't keep the shelf.
About eighteen months ago, I got a new Target shelf and used six inch heavy lag screws into a 2" X 6" stud wall. I noticed that the newer Target shelf was designed differently than my old shelf. The metal also seemed to be a lighter weight.
I placed my Raven One TT on top of it which is also a heavy table, but I don't think it's heavier than the SOTA. The front of the shelf flexed downward, so the front was about 1/4" lower than the back. The shelf was not pulling away from the wall. The lower braces of the shelf looked like they were pushing into the back brace causing the problem. I have a picture to prove it.
I tried to compensate by shimming the bottom back of the wall brace. This worked initially, but over time the shelf continued to drop. That was scary.
They just don't make things like they used to...at least not this shelf. I had to abandon the shelf idea, and I'm glad I did. |
Yeah, using drywall mollies on the one side would leave me more than a bit nervous too- better to come home today and do a rearrangement, fsonic. My bathroom scale says the SOTA checks in at 42 lbs without the arm, which would put it right at the limit - and that buckling story is even scarier. I think if I'm gonna do it, I might be safer to go custom. Thanks guys. |
I just got the Target 2 shelf version for my Orbe. It was recommended to me to use lag bolts into a stud to secure the shelf, but I'm the opposite of handy and I'm confused!
Lag bolts have a hex end, so would require a socket drill, right? Well, I have a power drill and could get a socket bit probably, but the hole in the shelf to put the bolt through is only 12mm wide. How would I get my ratchet in that tiny hole to secure the lag bolt?
Thanks! |
I am a carpenter by trade. I would recommend using a washer under the hex head of the lag screw and allowing the washer and lag screw to sit on top of the frame of the shelf also make sure to use a stud finder to locate the stud and pre drill your holes with a drill bit smaller the the lag screw. I know it seems unsightly but it would seem unlikely to first get a screw to fit into the hole with a socket and second to use an appropriately sized screw to hold the weight.To dress up the screw you could paint it black to match the shelf. |
Hi, I have a Nottingham 294 with Heavy kit. I reinforced my vw-1 pro with heavy duty automotive screws and an iron gate latch on each side with two additional screws each. I have had no drooping of the platform in two years. The gate latches are what are normally installed on the moving part of a fence gate. The curved part cradles the upper support bar of the VW-1 on each side. This counteracts the rotational force of the heavy weight of the tt and relives the outward stress on the top screws. I have jumped up and down on my wood floor next to the wall stand and a bowl of water on the platten had no ripples! Rock solid. |
Wilson - That makes much more sense, thanks. I was thinking the lag screw would head would need to go inside the metal frame, as with the small screws that the shelf comes with. I'll give it a try as you described.
I'm also considering adding a Mapleshade maple shelf, as in the catalog there is one specifically for the target shelf. The plywood shelf that it comes with seems pretty crappy. |
Add reinforcement? The shelf is crappy?
IMO - Do your own thing, it's got to be better. |
Kenny - Not an option for me unfortunately, I am terrible at handywork and I hate doing it! |
Just to follow up on this - the hole through the metal piece is only 5mm in diameter, and the smallest lag screws the hardware store had are 1/4". Am I missing something? |
Current Target Wall Mounts are crap. Use one at your own risk. Seek out an original like this one that just sold:
http://www.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?accsrack&1302135299&/Target-Wall-Mount-Stand-
and compare them, even visually, online.
I use one like the one linked to above. Secured into studs there will be no problem with the frame with a 50 or even 75 pound table.
The MDF shelf (which should be replaced anyway) will flex and sag a bit with a heavy table. A 3/4" or 1" piece of baltic birch should fix that and be relatively inexpensive.
Ideally, a constrained layer shelf can be made using a couple of pieces of baltic birch with a piece of 1/8" neoprene sheeting between them without breaking the bank.
I use extruded acrylic for the top layer of my shelf and found it to be worthwhile but it's pricey when compared to the baltic birch. |
Well, I got mine mounted to the wall with long wood screws on either side into studs, and a screw in a metal EZ anchor in the middle.
It seems to be pretty stable and sturdy. Granted, I still have questions, ie. why do the little metal leveling rods have 2 nuts, and what are the adhesive pads for?
You'd think they could have taken a few minutes and written out some instructions... |
