I don't know why you would need a 4" platform and 3" spikes. If you are right on the concrete, find some short cones or spikes with a wide base and place them under your speakers. If you are on carpeting over concrete, you'll need something just long enough to penetrate the carpet and elevate the speakers above the carpet.
However, you may need a spiked platform unless you want to install the spikes in the bottom of your speakers.
If the speakers are too heavy for one person to lift, have two people lift the cabinet while a third puts the platform in position.
I have a ceramic tile floor and I use carriage bolts, with the convex side to the floor, to great effect. My speakers are VSA SR IV's, at about 140 pounds each. Less than $5 at Home Depot. The bolts that is ;-)
Thanks for the replies. Yes the concrete floor is carpeted but no padding.
I own the Andra 2 speakers. They have some pretty substantial steel spikes that lift the speaker about 3 inches from the floor.
I also have some custom made brass Audio points for them, but I think the spikes that came with them work the best.
Still, I wonder if there is any reason to think that the speakers would sound better on a Maple platform.
Has anyone tried this?
Yes, I did. Pierre is a friend of mine and often has good ideas but this is not one of them. I tried one of his large $600 platforms that tilted the speaker upward and sat almost on the floor. Sounded VERY strange. I sold it to someone else who mounted floor standing speakers on it, not using the tilt feature. He had it for sale on Audiogon in a short time. I like the way my speakers sound on concrete [with thin rug]. I can't imagine how it would produce the kind of sound he describes. I had some boomy bass with WAY too much treble, but that was room reflection problems I cured with Ready Acoustics panels. I have had very good luck with Star Sound Audio Points but if what you have is working leave it alone.
Here is the exact statements fron the flyer.
" If your system is on a carpet (or tile) over concrete floor, you must cure the huge degrading effect of the concrete on the sound of your speakers. Concrete weakens and enormously muddies the bass while rolling off and harshening the treble."
" Equally toxic to good speaker sound are modern "engineered" wood floors, particularly floating floors that rest on rubberery insulating sheets. Carpet over concrete or plywood just woresens the situation."
Based on these statements it would seem nothing is good. (except of course their maple platforms.)
So, I was wondering if placing Cardas Myrtle blocks under the speaker spikes might at least give me a hint if there is any creedence to these claims.
Maple is in effect telling you to decouple the speakers from the floor. Their are many materials that could do that, at much less expense. The issue is do the speakers you have benefit from one method vs. the other. Only trying it out will tell you. The key here is always remembering you hear the speakers/room, not just the speakers. Do some room analysis to 'see' how flat the room is.
"... while rolling off and harshening the treble."
I don't understand how rolling off treble can also harshen it. This seems contradictory.
Buconero117, I would like to try it but as I have posted, my speakers weigh 215 lbs each and this is not an easy task for this old man to move around and slide a maple platform underneath.
And by by the way, the ones I would need for my size speakers from Maplshade would cost about $1600!
Tvad, I don’t under the treble statement either.
I am such a tweaker though, that I would like to get some inclination that there is merit to the Mapleshade statement
I do know that using a 4" Maple butcher block with Audio points underneath it improved my Amp.
It takes big brass balls to charge $1600 for wood platforms.
Concrete weakens and enormously muddies the bass while rolling off and harshening the treble
I suppose "rolling off" and "harshening" could be reconciled in terms of, say, an emphasis in the 3 to 6kHz region followed by a rolloff above that. But I can't imagine how the surface that is immediately under the speaker could produce any kind of effect like that.
It has struck me in the past that more than a few of the statements in their catalog are, um, unlikely to have universal applicability.
I do, though, use their four-inch maple amp stand and isoblocks, and I've been pleased with them.
As an alternative to Mapleshade, contact member "Timbernation" for a price on 4" maple platforms.
Spiking speakers to concrete under carpet has a longgggg reputation of working really well. Don't waste your money or kill your back. IMHO.
Tvad, Yes they are some expensive brass balls and pricey wood too. Timbernation, isn't that the place that many Audiogon members were having trouble getting the products that were paid for?
Srwooten, I always thought Concrete floors was a plus too.
Dog gone it though, I will have to at least try putting the Mrytle wood blocks under my speaker spikes just to see if there is a change.
If I dont comment back soon, I am in traction.
Timbernation, isn't that the place that many Audiogon members were having
trouble getting the products that were paid for?
Yes. That's Timbernation.
Don't know what to tell you other than if you're seriously considering Maple
platforms, then it might be worth a dime to call T'nation to see what's up before
you write a check.
As an alternative to maple get a sheet of 5/8 or thicker MDF, use 3 thicknesses of it separated by Blutak or generic equivalent at corners and held together by brass screws at corners and in center. Home Depot will cut it to size. I have done this for turntable stands. This is courtesy of Noel Noland at Skylan Stands. He maintains that it is better than maple, from my experience it is competitive with them but by the time I have taken my table apart and switched them and put the table back together it is impossible to make a reasoned judgement. The whole thing should rest on brass cones, tape washers or coins to bottom of stand for points to rest against or get threaded cones and drill stand to accept them. MUCH cheaper than maple, if you want to use maple try MICHIGAN MAPLE BLOCK or other supplier of cutting boards, I got a very good one from them.
I forgot to mention that I did get a maple platform from Timbernation last winter, took a little while but is quite good. On the other hand he told a friend of mine to send him diagrams for a custom stand but never followed up after he got them. So I would be cautious.
I was always under impression that using the spikes to pierce thru the carpet and contact the concrete was always the correct way to go;is this pratice not correct now?
Rleff, Well not according to Mapeshade.
If you absolutely don't want to spike, then use the universal cerapuc footers on top of your favorite wood that is on the carpet or try just on carpet.This will probably give you a good place to start listening as you can vary the size,shape and type of wood.
Lifeengineer, Actually I did own some Cerapucs for a time and I did try them under my Andra 2 speakers.
In the end, I preferred the spikes that came with my speakers and sold the Cerapucs.
Ozzy,maybe Herbies Audio Lab footers have potential.
I though Herbies was one of them thar sexually transmitted deseases.
Based on my experience with Grand Prix Audio Apex footers under some electronics, I'd investigate these under loudspeakers, provided the Apex footers can handle the weight.
The Apex footers have demonstrated the most clear cut benefit of any footers I have tried (Rollerblocks, Aurios, Gannymede, Boston Audio TuneBlocs, Sorbothane).
Herbies has come out with some new speaker footers that look very interesting. Generous trial period too.
As for Timbernation, based on my experience I'd stay clear.
Lifeengineer, Tvad, Clio09, Thanks for the advise.
Actually, I dont think my speakers have any problem, its just that the Mapleshade flyer seems to think that spiked speakers do not sound good on carpeted concrete foors.
I will lokk into the Herbies and Apex footer though . Thanks for the suggestion.
This seems wrong to me. I have my speakers spiked to a French limestone floor, with a rug with padding in front of the speakers. It sounds great, I wouldn't think of setting the speakers up differently. I would add padding for your rug, pour myself a single malt, and listen to some music.
Stringreen, Thanks. My system is in a basement room and I was told not use padding in case of a water leak.
I agree with you.
Looking over Mapleshade flyer there are many questionable items in there.
Stanwal, Thank you for some very good comments and suggestions.
(Except the desease comment).
I have more like an Audiophile desease.
My ESP Bodhran SE speakers are designed to be spiked to a concrete floor. The supplied spikes are a combination brass tip with a phenolic base. I thought these spikes might have been a compromise so I tried a set of solid brass Audio Points and did not like the results. The sound became too detailed and hi-fi sounding. I returned to the original spikes. Apparently the design was well chosen. I think any change in support will alter the sound of the speaker. You may find the sound improved or maybe not. Experimenting is part of the fun.
I tried a set of solid brass Audio Points...The sound became too detailed and hi-fi sounding.
I had the same results. Eventually, I placed my spike-free Sonata III speakers on 2" maple platforms (on carpeted hardwood raised foundation floor). The sound was still clear with controlled bass, but more relaxed in the upper mids and highs.