Has anyone heard the 47 labs Shigaraki DAC?


I have read two favorable reviews on the Shigaraki DAC. I am glad to see a company attempting to make the most out of the standard CD format. While the other formats fight it out.
nparbat
I had one for several weeks on loan. It's a nice DAC, certainly. Still, I opted not to keep it, it didnt' beat my other 2 DAC's in terms of sound.

-Ed
Hi Ed,

What dacs did you compare the 47 labs to?

Thanks!
There is a nice review of the Shigaraki DAC in this months Listener Magazine, i have heard the 47 Labs Flatfish/Progression Many times and have been very impressed. 47Labs is also coming out with a Shigaraki tranpsort which looks to be very good.
Comparison DAC's were internal dac in Sony XA7ES and a Muse 2+ DAC. I like 47 labs in general, but the shigaraki dac just wasn't my cup of tea. I have the Gaincard amp, which I think is their best product (esp. bang for the buck) that I have heard.

-Ed
I heard the full Shigaraki system last night. I still have vivid memories of the experience. I have owned about 50 pieces of hi-fi in the last 4 years; nothing prepared me for the sound of this system for the money. I have heard better systems, but they were either very expensive tubes or the more expensive line of 47 Labs gear. For $4500 you get a transport, DAC, and integrated amplifier with three inputs. It is stupid good for the money. I have heard $40,000 systems that did not approach the true musicality of this system. Put the system on a Symposium Svelte Shelf, add some good power cords, and cable the whole thing with 47 Labs' OTA cable kit, and you have a very serious perfectionist system. The 18 watt amp drove Quad ESL-57's--using the tiniest speaker cable I have ever seen--with more authority than I have heard any speaker driven. And for those who say that Quads have no bass, they must be deaf. I am not sure I would want to own the DAC in a different system. 47 works hard to give their systems synergy, and that comes through loud and clear with the Shigaraki system. Soon there will bea Shig phono section too. Can't wait to hear it.
Yes..I own the Shigaraki and it's a superb performer. It needs the right transport to really shine however. So far, the best transport I've used has been the EVS (Ric Schultz)modified Sony cd player. It's a great combo.
I own a Flatfish transport and Shigaraki Dac and everything is wired with OTA. I have owned a Wadia 850, Levinson 390S and Accuphase DP65 players. This 47Labs system easily bests the others in terms of communicating the message. It is simply more "human". If you care more about the music than the sound, go for it!!
What powercord do you suggest for the Shigaraki DAC? So far, I have better results with Mapleshade on my Gaincard. Don't know if 47 Labs generally sound better with non-shielded powercords or not...
I responded back in June that I had heard the full Shigaraki system. Finally, after waiting several months for the equipment to come in, I own the full system sans phono section (which I will buy later). It is superlative. Everything just sounds so real. I think it has something to do with the Symposium Svelte Shelves I use, as well. They really improve on all of the strengths of 47 equipment. I also plan on adding Essential Sound Products power cords. They are quite dynamic and do not act as tone controls, like several of the more popular brands out there. I have the whole system hooked up with 47 Labs's OTA kit. I have heard the difference made by stripping the wire and coating it with some insulating paint (a cheap tweak); it was unbelievable. I mean truly night and day. Complete voodoo--except that it works and comes directly from Yoshi, the American distributor. I just need to get some better speakers. I have Proac 1S right now, and I am considering the Essence or entry-level Duevels. We'll see what my budget and my room can handle.
Kforton:

This is the first I have heard of this tweak. What specific type of "paint" is used. I might want to try this on the 8" OTA cables that connect my phono preamps. If I don't care for it I can always snip another 8" off my speaker cables and replace them. LOL.
This is more than a tweak; it dramatically changes the sound for the better. I don't understand how it works, but it certainly does. Yoshi recommends painting the wire with enamel, but the enamel has a tendency to crack off leaving the wire exposed. Also, you need to paint the wire a few times. The Canadian 47 distributor recommends acrylic paint in yellow or another easily visible color so that you can touch it up on a second coat. I heard a very nice system including the Shig digital gear and the Essence speakers with this "tweak." It was shocking. And we changed only one length of cable: the single run from the transport to the dac. With the stock wire, I noticed a sort of closed in top end and a little distortion in the highs. We changed the one cable, and it cleared right up. I couldn't believe it myself. I am going to do it myself once I get my act together. Good luck.
There is a review of the 4715 dac in the current (March) issue of Stereophile. I am not sure if this is the same dac as the shigiraki or not. But they appear to be similar.
Yup, that is the Shigaraki which is compared to the Sony 777 SACD player.
Kforton, nice tweek. I want to try it. How did you strip the insulation of OTA? With wire-strippers? heat? I cannot pull off more than, say, 10cm at a time.
Wire strippers. It's a tedious and dangerous job. It's a good thing 47 gives you 50 meters in the kit! As long as you make a clean cut through the insulation it comes off with just a little coaxing.
Slawney:

Use the type of strippers that have an adjustable set screw. I have a pair of Ripley/Miller that are set specifically for the OTA. They should run $8-$9. Never nicked the wire with them and have made dozens of cuts.

If properly set you can even strip Kimber multi stranded cable with your eyes closed (they are that good and easy to use).
On the OTA tweak, I drilled a 3/32"(to fit OTA dia.) hole in a piece of 1.5" thick pine and then simply tapped (lightly w/ hammer)a brand new very sharp razor blade across the center of the hole exit on one side.The OTA is then pushed through the hole from the bladeless side until it meets the cutting edge of the blade.This may require rotating the wire within the hole if the copper center itself hits the blade dead on.Carefully push the wire into the blade until there is enough (1/2") of the wire sticking out to grab with a pair of pliers and pull it the rest of the way through.I had very good results with this method,the only thing is you have to uncurl the wire after you've pulled it through because it curls up on it self after it is pulled away from the last half of insulation .With the blade perpendicular to the wood I didn't notice any scoring of the copper at all by the blade.
I immediately without touching the wire with my bare hands hung it up and sprayed it with a self etching primer(sherwin williams 988)and let it dry.I dont know anything about how paint will affect the sound,but I do know that the self etching primer will adhere (nasty stuff,probably overkill).I plan on letting it dry overnight and hooking it up tomorrow.I'm starting with IC's only at first.
On the OTA tweak, I drilled a 3/32"(to fit OTA dia.) hole in a piece of 1.5" thick pine and then simply tapped (lightly w/ hammer)a brand new very sharp razor blade across the center of the hole exit on one side.The OTA is then pushed through the hole from the bladeless side until it meets the cutting edge of the blade.This may require rotating the wire within the hole if the copper center itself hits the blade dead on.Carefully push the wire into the blade until there is enough (1/2") of the wire sticking out to grab with a pair of pliers and pull it the rest of the way through.I had very good results with this method,the only thing is you have to uncurl the wire after you've pulled it through because it curls up on itself(loosely) after it is pulled past the blade.With the blade perpendicular(important!) to the wood I didn't notice any scoring of the copper at all by the blade.The remaining half of the insulation is easily removed by grabbing the wire and the insulation and pulling them apart.
I immediately without touching the wire with my bare hands hung it up and sprayed it with a self etching primer(sherwin williams 988)and let it dry.I dont know anything about how paint will affect the sound,but I do know that the self etching primer will adhere (nasty stuff,probably overkill).I plan on letting it dry overnight and hooking it up tomorrow.I'm starting with IC's only at first.