There must be a place that has used parts for ARC.
TVAD; Thanks for the information, I called them and they seem to be closed for the Corona 19 .....I actually think I can change it but I would need to make sure it was the proper replacement part.....There seems to be quite a few marginal replacement parts......This Philips Pro 2 transport is used in a lot of high grade cd players.....Even some of the better jute boxes......So as soon as I can find the right one, I'll give it a go............W
Beware of some of the ebay replacement parts. I've replaced the laser drive in my Cary 303/300 three times now over 15 yrs or so. Instead of buying the part from Cary I tried an ebay seller and the part was DOA. Tried the same laser drive out of a used DVD player and it didn't fit just right even though it worked and was a noisy POS. You'll like this - Cary wouldn't warranty the part if I did it myself claiming folks ruined them trying to do the install. Good luck...is this Will the renoun ST70 builder? Should be a piece of cake for you.
autospec OPThat's a ripoff!!!!!!!! 2hr labour at $120 per hr and $150 for the laser $390.
Your Audio Research CD-3 MKII uses a Philips CD pro 2 mechanism, which has a VAU1254 laser head in it.
If you have patience, are handy using tools and have a bit of electrical skills you can do it your self, in a couple of hours.
Get the laser here
I’ve done many lasers, not yet on an Audio Research, shouldn’t be any problems from what I saw inside on the net.
Some lasers have a "shorting " ESL protection solder blob on the ribbon connector strip, or sometimes on the sub-board, this needs to be removed, (open circuited) the reason so many diy'er say their new laser they just put in is no good, and blame eBay
George : Is there any aligning or electrical adjustment to make......I watched a person on You-Tube do it and I would have a problem with that.......Do these lasers have any instructions or information with them ?? How would you know to remove the solder shorting bridge.....Is these anyway I could call you ??? Will
George : I can see you are not in the US, so it wouldn't be good to call...Anything you can tell me about this laser changing would be of great help.....One of the things you could tell me is a Laser made by Philips, but a New Old Stock better than a new replacement laser made by someone else .......W
If you want to pay extra, get the genuine Philips ones, I've used the clones and never had a problem with them.
Like I said before are you this guy? If so then you can do it
" If you have patience, are handy using tools and have a bit of electrical skills, you can do it your self, in a couple of hours."If not then pay someone who is. Not at AR rates
2 Channel: This laser seems to plug in , with out any soldering....I put a read out in one of those CD's and I can tell that's changing a motherboard .......About 40 tiny-tiny pins.......but nobody said it was easy...........I ordered a NOS laser last week and now the guy tells me its one of two type............He's the guy selling it, you would think he would know......But he doesn't, so I'll order one from someone else....Right now the world is in stress......I hope we all survive it.....W
Let me first say that Audio Research has changed hands and there repair polices have changed, secondly they repair 5-7 units for me a year....They have maybe found a source for lases now, so they don't have to replace the entire transport......My understanding is also that Philips is not supporting that transport anymore either, but I have found in this world of information we do not always get correct or true information.......I do know that most of the "Chinese made lasers are of very poor quality .....Because I have had some of the on-line repair guys (e-bay) use them with poor results.......So that's all I know for now..........
I’m in the same spot on a CDT-1. Original behavior was skips and errors reading disk. Replaced with eBay laser, player always says “no disk”. Replaced they with official ARC laser, same issue! I feel like there must be some sort of ESD solder blob I’m not seeing? It doesn’t even spin the CD. This is exactly like a Rega unit I repaired, before I realized there was a solder blob that needed to be cleared. Can anyone point me in the right direction?