...have you? What did you do exactly & what did you use? What did you hear after wards?

Hardwire bypass of speakers connectors is rather worthwhile - as long as they are not made of pure, solid copper (which would likely not result in any gain worth the effort) - a more direct sound most of all, more clear and a bit better timing and HF detail...leading edges on transients and openness may improve a bit, too, and sometimes better bass...IOW, less smear and haze, more transparent IME. And, say, in combination with other similar attempts to improve the sound along these lines like bypassing amp connectors as well, or using a decent passive pre instead of an active one (or driving your amp straight from a DAC) will help even more. Throw in a good power solution and you can have the basis for a very revealing system if your speakers are game for it at all.

When I bypassed my amp connectors, I made "pigtails" from some 18 ga. solid core copper wire (PCOCC hookup wire). I soldered the hookup wire to the stems for the connectors on the PCB, then out through holes in the rear panel with about 5 or 6 inches poking through. Amp wire connections made with wire caps so I could disconnect whenever I move things around. Wire caps also on the speaker end. The somewhat small gauge was not an issue despite 10 ga. speaker wires because the pigtails are so short...as long as they are not too, too small a gauge here, you’re fine. Solid core is A OK here, as well...but I consider hardwire bypass an important tool in the tool box for better system building.
I agree, no pigtails here, straight from the driver to the amp output board !-) I love the copper/silver/gold wire sold here years ago, nothing like it.