H20 Revisited

Yo Rlf, if you care to get even the rudest solder iron, you can easily change those bypass caps. I have found Sonicap Platinum .1 µ caps better to my liking.

Rumadian, what are you doing for a source, and what PCs, ICs, and SCs are you using? The choices are crucial to good sound.

Bob is right on. I would look into the lower powered H2O as well for most speakers. The High powered amps are suitable for tough loads. I tuned my M250 monos with Sonicap Platinum bypass caps to my great satisfaction. I think these are being applied stock now.

Hi Crubio,

I agree with you.

May I ask you what your source is? I am using a non-oversamping DAC. I have found nearly all oversamplers an annoyance. I have not tried analog.

Thanks

I may have been too hasty with the V-caps. I tried them through 2 months. When I switched to the Sonicaps, they sounded great to my ears from the start.

There is no soldering class needed. Some Wonder Solder and a cheap gun is all you need. You just soften the hold of the V-Caps, and replace with the others the same way by heating the plate and wire then applying the solder.

You have to be sure the caps, and wires are slung low, so they don't short on the amp lid.

It's a snap. I am no electrician, but I built myself a DAC. starting yesterday. The right speaker sounds marvelous, but the left is doing it's best imitation of the Amttyville Horror House. Like I said, I am no electrician.

Rlf, those were astute observations. When confronted with one of the web's most vociferous H2O critic, I asked about the attending wires and components on his listening. His answer told all.

These H2O amp systems are the most difficult to get all right. When you do, though, you really know how special these amps are.

I have given up on production speaker cables. I am making my own using very short ribbons to go with my H2O monos. I never will be tempted to buy commercial SCs again. The change was hugely positive.

My Audio Note DAC is also crucial to my system favorability. Crubio heard that.

True, but with reservations. Class D requires different answers as to how to
bring out their best. Cost is less important than type. In fact, some very costly
components can do a lot of harm to the music. I have had my H2O amps for
years, and have learned a lot. If you please, here are some of my findings.

1) fully shielded power cords. Money does talk here.

2) simple interconnects. I use Speltz ICs. That way I can keep them long, and
my SCs short. I have mono amps. There may be better, but they will follow
the same principle of simpleness.

3) Naked SCs. I have found DIY ribbon SCs to be the best, and they cost so
little. Insulated SCs emit a very audible haze to the music. I interpret this to
random capacitance injection. The thicker the insulation, the more distortion,
regardless of price. Don't even think of hose through a box SCs.

4) If you are using a digital source, no over-sampler player (the vast majority)
will come close to the performance of a fine non over-sampler. The
superiority of even the cheapest NOS player over the most vaunted SACD
player will amaze. Digital filters do horrible things to music.

These same class D winners will make little to no difference to any
conventional amp usage.