Graham Phantom - Armrest Setup

I am installing a Graham Phantom tonearm. I cannot figure out how to loosen the armrest layer of the tonearm so that I can swing it to face the front of the table. I see two holes drilled into the armrest layer (one underneath the count weight and one on the side opposite of the VTA tower). It seems like one may need to loosen those to rotate the armrest layer, but the user manual makes no mention of using these two screws for any purpose. And it seems odd that one lies directly below the counter weight making it difficult to reach.

Right now, the armrest sits about 1/2 inch away from the outer edge of the platter. I'd like to rotate it counter clockwise to face front.

Any suggestions are welcome.

Thanks, Jeff
No need to loosen any screws, just give enough pressure with fingers to move that part ( with the Graham logo) clockwise or counterclockwise.
it's the same hex as the one to loosen VTA.
Shift the platform by hand.The VTA screw should be loosened to play it safe.

Btw,Jloveys....Is your arm grounded to both table AND pre/phonostage?

I originally set my Phantom to the exact ground scheme as my 2.2,but developed popping,which caused major problems in the system.I expect to ground to BOTH pre/phonostage(an all in one unit,in my case)now,with the new Series Two Phantom,but am curious as to your outcome.

Yes, Sirspeedy, popping problem resolved also by grounding the Phantom base AND TT bearing to phonopreamp chassis. Bob Graham was so concerned about our problem that he contacted me to say that we were the only two Phantom owners with that problem, he suggested to do that grounding TT+arm, but I did it already before and works fine. We don't realize how nice it is to listen to music without a loud "pop" every minute until we have experienced the problem ! I am happy to know that you resolved it too, with the exact same setting, great !
Have a look at my new turntable project in members systems/Twin platters rim drive. I will be more than happy to have your opinion.
Jloveys,I love your set-up.What's not to like?

My problem is still not resolved,since the static issue affected my pre/phonostage.Yet,since it required some work,I decided to dramatically upgrade it,with numerous mods.This way the problem becomes a major upgrade,and I can digest that better.

My dealer was useless(could not answer basic questions relating to the popping) and Bob was having some personal issues,but he(Bob) was a gentleman,and sent me a new IC-70,and the latest Phantom series Two.It's ALL set up and ready to go,so I'm dying to get my pre back!

I'm hoping to get it back very soon.

Best of luck
Sirspeedy I e-mail you, we are sliding off topic...
OK Loveys,my serious opinion(for what it's worth),since you asked....

You seem to have a very good set-up.I like the unique way the table is set up.My friend(a close friend of Harry Weissfeld)is about to embark on the standard VPI rim drive,on his TNT(the latest one).He's really going crazy with a ton of new stuff,including replacing his fabulous Air Suspension(very pricey)on the Heavy VPI Stand,with a new Still Points Rack.Hope it works out for him.Yet,he knows what he's doing and is pals with some folks at Hi Fi Plus,so he's got good input.

He owns the 12.7 arm and Titan I cartridge,and has highly moded Infinity RS-1b's.The rest of the set-up is the very latest CJ amps(the BIG ones),and an ART series III pre,with the newest CJ phonostage....He would be very interested in your approach to the rim drive,as he is having one of Harry's guys set his rim drive up very soon.There is a contingent of VPI lovers,in my little audio circle.Regardless of criticism from other posters,these guys are the creme de la creme of hobbyists/music lovers/major LP collectors that I've ever come across.If there is something floating around about "anything" audio/analog,they knew about it,before it was imagined.THAT serious,are these guys!So...

I must assume your unique approach to the speaker combo,and set-up works for you.The table looks great,in all honesty.Very original!!

The rest of your system seems superb,so what can I "really" say,other than I hope you listen to the kind of music(and have a commensurately good music collection to do it all justice)that brings out the best of it all!!

Personally I am fascinated by the Allaerts stuff.Love the hand made aspect of Jan's creations.

It's ALL in the "set-up",and each hobbyist's skill level.Not to mention the aid that can be had from a good group of audio friends,for their useful input!

You should be proud!!!

Hope this "somewhat" answers your question of my opinion of your stuff,and rim drive.....Lately I've come to "truly" appreciate the artistic/unique approach of many hobbyists.I don't aspire to the school of it has to be the way I personally have something done.Too many unique/different approaches.

As to the "topic",I believe once the Graham Phantom is set up "well"( a bit more than just "correctly")it should be an amazing instrument.The arm-rest should move rather easily,but does not affect sound,from where it ultimately rests.

Btw,for those still experimenting.....I had the Graham 2.2 for about five years,and LOVED to play around with it's voicing ability through the judiscious use of the combination of damping "fluid amount" and VTF and VTA!

IT was a Rubic's Cube approach that "definitely" rewarded those who took on the challenge,of that "Classic" arm....A good time to mention it is a BARGAIN on the used market!!!!!

The new Phantom is not quite as sensitive as the 2.2 to fluid,but definitely rewards those who don't accept "good enough sounding" settings!Where many are happy to just stop,there.

It can be made to sound WAY better than just very good!
Surprisingly so!I've found the fluid to significantly affect sound,with careful additions,until there is just enough to eliminate the slight resonant characteristic riding with dynamic musical passages.

There are some who feel the arm should be set with NO fluid!I totally disagree,from experience at a friend,where I set up his Phantom.I've played around with his settings(at his request)numerous times.

The fluid(based on cartridge)should be "started" at the very bottom of the "squared off" part of the bearing.Just above the point of the bearing,but just touching the squared off part.

Move up,from there,in REALLY tiny amounts.Maybe two to three pin-heads at a time,and listen for clarity,but NO resonance/distortion.The bass should be clear and distinctively powerful.I will stick my neck out enough to assume that there should never be a scenario for any fluid to be more than about 1/3 way up the "bottom" of the bearing.Regardless of cartridge.

Further down in fluid,opens up the stage and dynamics.I can't emphasize how important it is to "overshoot/undershoot" this,just to get a grip on how it can be altered!

Up too high and you think you are under water,from the overly damped sound.

If the bass is slightly soft/ have too much fluid.

You must play around ALOT,to "get it"....Like Goldie Locks and the Porrage...."It has to be just right"!

Once it's set,you'll know,but remember that the fluid affects VTF,so check this parameter often.

Use LP's with alot of high freq energy and overall dynamics.Use alot of very good LP's and expect to spend a goodly amount of listening sessions learning this.It's really fun.If think you got it "very quickly"....You don't have it perfect yet.....GUARANTEED!!!!

Hope this is of some aid.


Sirspeedy, thank you for your input. Very informative.
About the Phantom voicing issue I my case I agree with you that fluid damping level makes this arm sound "magic", in a very one sweet spot. On the contrary VTA adjustment doesn't affect the sound ( maybe Allaerts carts are frigid to that "G" point ) !
About my TT project, I thank you for the comments, I don't do this for my ego but to share experiences with other audio hobbiysts and "virtual" friends. This TNT modified like this sounds way better than the Raven AC 3 motors I had in my system for a month ( same arm and cartridge) . It is very musical, separation between instruments very good top to bottom. Of course this is possible by trying step by step experiments in the long term.
About your friend wanting to upgrade his TNT , I would not use Stillpoints under the plinth if using rim drive. They are very good vibration isolation devices on vertical plane, but here we need also a controlled pressure buffer on horizontal plane between the rim platter and main platter. That is why the Symposium Rollerblocks are unique, also tungsten balls are preferable to ceramique, much harder material. The height of 1 Rollerblock + 2 couplers is
exactly correct for TNT. You loose level control of the TT so you should keep the massive VPI stand wich is adjustable by the 4 big cones. You can use these Rollerbocks on any good vibration damping platform and results will be there( I tryed HRS) but for me the Symposium Ultra is "synergy" .
One approach.
Best regards.
My friend is not putting Stillpoints under the VPI!He's getting the big/complex Stillpoints equipment rack.

I have NO influence on him here(even though I think he's nuts,because the current set-up is fabulous,and technically correct)because he's chummy with Richard Foster(of Hi fi Plus)who is reinforcing this move,to him.Richard apparently has this very expensive rack,and "it" has just gotten a rave review in the latest issue.For whatever that's worth.

I'm impressed that you find the rim/modded VPI to outperform the Raven table......If it sounds better,it is better!

Best of luck