good cable for internal speaker wiring

Then I'm accidentally doing it right since my speaker cable is the same magnet wire from Paul Speltz.

Good answer, Coolhand. Makes perfect sense to have the same wire from amp connection to the cabinet, and through the cabinet to the drivers. Why would you want two different types of wire in series with each other?

Logic prevailing, I would suggest that you use the same type of wire as that which you use from your amps to the speakers, assuming that you are positively contented with it of course !

I like DHlabs Silver Sonic T-14 although I understand some may say it's too large for run to tweeter. I find it easy to work with.

Thanks, everyone.

Look to Chris VenHaus of VH Audio. I had Bill Thalmann mod a couple pieces of gear and he used Chris' internal hook-up wire (he has a couple options. Even Bill was impressed.

Direct is best but as I said not practical for me. The connectors are made by Au-ve-co [Auto-Vehicle Parts Co.] and are marked 8774 [2962447 in parenthesis]. Unplated GM 56 Series Terminals. They are brass and are much better than standard ones. My tech friend told me about them, he has used them for quite a while.

By the way, all wires were tinned then directly soldered to the drivers. Pairs of wires (+/- for each driver) were twisted together to reduce RFI pickup - the wires for the three tweeters were then bundled into one Techflex tubing bundle, as were the wires for the three mids, and the woofer wires were put into their own Techflex. Here's a picture of the install:

RSIIb Install

and here's an in-progress picture showing some of the wires bundled in Techflex and some prior to bundling.

Wiring from Crossover

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I used the Cardas Copper Litz wire for wiring my homemade external passive crossover to my Infinity RIIb speakers. I used 11.5 gauge on the woofers, 15.5 gauge on the EMIM mids and 17.5 gauge on the EMIT tweeters.

Litz is not the easiest to work with as every strand must be stripped of insulation, but I found that the resulting sound quality was well worth the work. Lots of details and shimmering highs. I ended up using a Demel tool with a stainless steel wire wheel, and that worked well for the stripping.

There is a lot on which gauge to use on the forums; I just found that I liked smaller better. I had to use slip on because the crossover was already set up for it and it would have been very difficult to change. I found a snap on connector which makes a better contact that is made by an automobile parts manufacture for car radios; I'll try to find the box and post the part number. I got them from a local parts store but should be on the web. Cost about 5 cents each.

Stanwall, did you use connectors or direct solder? If you used slide connectors, where did you get them?

Why would you not use it on tweeter? Because of skin effect? You can get smaller guage from Clairvoyant Cables.
Not that I'm recommending it over your suggestions, Stanwal.

I rewired my Spendor S 100s with Cardas on bass and mid and Homegrown silver on top and it worked very well. Heavy on bass. medium on mid and thin on top; say 11.14 and 22 gauge. I would not use magnet wire on tweeter but a smaller gauge myself; not saying it won't work. I was going to use Cardas all round but they sent me too little by mistake. ANY good wire will be an improvement on most speakers.

I'm going to use magnet wire which I think is OCC wire which I can get in short lengths from Paul Speltz. But I haven't tried it yet. So it's an option but I can't tell you if I like it yet.