General question about speaker impedance and amps


I was recently told my Dunlavy Sc IIIs present a difficult amplifier load due to their impedance which fluctuates between 5.5 ohms and 3 ohms., in general i am trying to get an idea of how to match amps with low impedance speakers, some basic questions i have:
generally speaking are amps which double there power into a lower load good with low impedances? does it necessarily present a harder load when a speakers impedance fluctuates? in general are class A biased amps particularly good with low impedance speakers, i am under the impression tube amps are not suited for this purpose is this correct?(once again, in general). Also my speakers have an efficency of 91db so i was thinking of trying a lower powered amp that would work well with a low impedance, any recommedations? for example a yba or gamut with 70w to 100w, i would like to compare an amp such as this to the DNA -1 i recently bought so i can decide if i want to send it in for revision or go with the lower powered amp as i've found in the past i have prefered to higher powered amps though i have just started to experiment with the dunlavy's
mkaes

Showing 2 responses by audiopile

1.) All coil driven loudspeakers vary their impdeance depending on frequency. The single number expressed in ohms on the back of the speaker is of only passing interest.
2.) You want to look at a plot showing impedance v. ferquency for your speaker.
When you look at this plot - look for violent changes in the low bass area ( You may also see some strange stuff happening around the crossover points.) To control the cone at lower frquencies you want current. A amp capable of driving the variable impedance of a real world loudspeaker will double in wattage as the load drops in impedance ( 50 into 8 ohms ,100 into 4 ,200 into 2 ohms for example. This takes power supply components that are not cheap - but they will sound more effortless in the bass area in almost all cases. Such a near ideal bass amp may or may not light your fire in terms of mid or high frequency reproduction.
Tube amps have to be able to send power through output transformers and much as I love the sound of good tube amps - I've never heard one that was simply stunning in deep bass reproduction.
Most true class A biased amps will produce the near perfect power to impedance ratio I describe above. After all - you've got to have a gonzo crazed power supply section to be able to do class A opertion to begin with - making it able to drive low impedances well is nearly a gimmie at that point. Class A's are a lot like tube amps in that a true A's watts seem to have a lot more hair on 'em than even well executed A/B amps. Probably at least part of this is because they can recover from clipping much faster than a A/B that 's been hammered to the wall. In other words a 50 watt class A amp will often walk all over a 150 watt A/B.
Disadvantages of True A biased amps - heat -weight-price - electric bills -patience.In my experience - every A amp I ever listened to - sounded much better once it had a chance to heat up ( usually seemed to take 40 min. to an hour). This is probably because in most amps bias and DC offset are interrelated in terms of adjustment. DC offset is always done once the amp has hit it's optimum temp.
Hope this is some help.
In responce to gregm comment about high power SS amps having hefty Power Supplies. Maybe /maybe not. The power at various impedance spec is the only real indicator of power supply capability. You can definitly find amps that will do 100 into 8 ohms - maybe only 120-140 into 4 and possibly as little as 150 into 2 ohms. These will definitly have crap power supplies and will tend to clip hard and long when overdriven and have sorta soggy bass on most speakers. A lot of even pretty hefty surround sound recievers and surround sound 5 and 6 channel amps will fall into this . Is the scuttlebut I heard that video/surround amps are being tested for power ratings with only one channel driven at a time - is this true? If it is true this would certainly explain the pathetic sound produced by these products under most conditions - since this makes their power ratings about as real world usefull as a top speed for a car being derived from it's terminal velocity when dropped from a C-130 at 15,000 feet.
I absoulutly agree with gregm - listening is the only thing that really matters.