Fuses and confusion


I am slowly upgrading my system and I am looking at the changing of fuses step. I have the following in my system:  Sunfire TGA-7401, Marantz AV8805, Carver Load Invariant amplifier, Marantz Ruby, and a Vault 2i. My questions are 1). Which of these components have\use fuses 2). Does changing the fuses invalidate the warranty? 3). Are there videos on changing the videos or do you just pop the hood and start looking. Please feel free to point out issues that I am not aware of and whether this is even relevant under my circumstances. Thanks in advance.

santsuru
They all have fuses. Changing them does nothing to the warranty. They are usually pretty obvious.  

Three are most common. One is a round knob on the back that says Fuse. These are spring loaded and usually push forward while turning, then pull out. If you don't see that one then look real close at the IEC socket where the power cord plugs in. Hidden very small on these is a little tab that is a pain to get out unless you use something like a small screwdriver to catch the tiny little tab and pull. These holders use a physically smaller size fuse. 

If you can't find either of those then unscrew the cover and have a look inside. The fuse will usually be very near where the AC power comes in. 

Replace your crap factory fuse with Synergistic Orange, it will be like going to a really good power cord. Hard to believe. Direction definitely makes a difference. So if its a remove the cover situation don't screw everything back together until you're sure.
Your amp’s fuse holders have a screwdriver slot, in the cap (if it’s the typical Sunfire Load Invariant).    Do not try to unscrew them.        As MC stated; push in and turn counter-clockwise, 90 degrees.           I’ve had to replace a few fuse holders, for the uninformed.
Replacing a perfectly good fuse with anything claiming to be better is an utter waste of time and money as they will not improve any aspect of a component's performance. "Directionality" in a fuse makes no difference as none of the wires or PC traces in your components are likely to be installed with any regard to directionality. 
Thanks for everyone's help. I was able to poke around and figure out how to get the fuses out and copy down the markings and put them back in without blowing up components or fuse.
Then try one purchase at a time. If you can't hear any difference wtste your money on something else.
Make sure you use the same amperage and type, fast or slow blow fuse or yeah your warranty might not be honored. 
Post removed 
The Marantz AV8805 actually has a larger number of fuses and they are all located internally.  The main fuse is probably the biggest impact (usually on a small board right next to the IEC power cord socket).  I would go with a 2A fuse for this main fuse on the AV8805.

There are still a bunch of fuses all over the place within this unit.  It really depends how far you want to go in disassembling the unit and pulling out boards.  Probably not very far, lol.
1) You are absolutely wasting your time changing fuses.  The only possible fuse change that would affect the amp's sound is if there are fuses in line with the speakers.

2) If you open the chassis of a component and start messing with it's internal fuses you will unquestionably void your warranty, regardless of what anyone says here.  Don't be foolish.
...and 3) Millercarbon is a rather well-known shill for Synergistic Research and has hawked their questionable wares on many threads on this forum.  His advice is tantamount to shooting yourself in the foot as far as warranty goes.
Funny Fused and Confused,


no name callin', ay!!


jnorris2005
117 posts
08-03-2020 7:21pm
1) You are absolutely wasting your time changing fuses. The only possible fuse change that would affect the amp's sound is if there are fuses in line with the speakers.

2) If you open the chassis of a component and start messing with it's internal fuses you will unquestionably void your warranty, regardless of what anyone says here. Don't be foolish.

Your funny too. Void the warranty? for replacing a fuse, funny guy, the only thing that WON'T void the warranty, is  replacing the fuse.

The void/tamper proof tape is actually void if there is a fuse under it.. That's a US requirement. ALL equipment can be looked at and serviced by YOU. YOU just might not be reimbursed, for you labor. I've always been reimbursed for my parts and a reasonable labor rate..

Just like your Chevy, Ford, BMW ect.. you can do the service and the work, it voids NO WARRANTY...

You sure sound like someone else that uses the "shill", word. What the heck is a shill? Sound's Yiddish.  Because I'm 10% American Jew, 15% American African, 25% American Native, and 40% American Irish, but 100 % blue eyed American demon! I'll let it slide, but no name callin...Oh! The Wifes, 100% American Latina... Cha Cha Cha, Amigo!

Regards


oldhvymec

You are wrong about the warranty.  Unless you are a certified electronics repair technician you will void the warranty if you open the box, and the claim that "ALL equipment can be looked at and serviced by YOU" is absolute hogwash.  I've never heard anything so ridiculous.  A "shill" is defined in the dictionary as "an accomplice of a hawker, gambler, or swindler who acts as an enthusiastic customer to entice or encourage others."

You may be good at fixing cars, but you should stop giving bad advice about electronic equipment.
You may be good at fixing cars, but you should stop giving bad advice about electronic equipment.

You are funny, again!! Cars?

 And who would certify me? LOL YOU? I'm rollin' on the floor..

International Machinist and Aerospace workers. NASA  at one point in my life, and a few other small "uncar" companies. I'm a HD master mechanic, retired. Hydraulics, tunnel boring machines, large diameter shaft boring vertical or horizontal, trench cutters, anchor drills.

Though I did serve part of my master/tec training at a Studebaker/Rambler/AMC shop in the 70s

I've opened every box on the planet and been paid for it all. Let alone stereo gear. Your funny! Do you really think the stereo world of electronics is "The high end" of electronic repair.. Holy cow buddy, wake up.. 

EEs don't work on stereo gear, just the ones that aren't working as electricians so they can get paid a decent wage. Been my experience.

Same with Sound Engineers, I've worked with a lot of sound engineers,
at  excavations all over, maybe one in 30 or so had anything to do with speakers, there is no money in it...

Your good advise is someone is "wasting money" when they get a "NOTED" improvement by changing a fuse.
Again, good advise, need not have unkind words, sir! If you listen you might learn, something YOU can use..

"The fuse won't work man"
Funny guy.

Regards maybe...
I read your post on another thread.  You are CLEARLY not one to be posting about fixing anything.  You are funny!  LOL.  Funny guy!
Santsuru, in regards to #2, you should contact the manufacturer before opening the unit and changing any parts, including fuses. All manufacturers have guiding documents stating their warranty policy, but it’s always best to call/e-mail and ask first. That way, they can make a note in their system (make sure to get the contacts name, department, and note the date), and if a serious warranty issue occurs later on, your fuse change will have been documented.
If you bought gear NEW from a reputable manufacturer/dealer network, your warranty will be fine. If you didn’t--oops!
Sure are a lot of void warranties in our group if you can't even open it up. All those interior amp pics on the web are of out-of-warranty amps.
Hilarious!
Funny stuff. Don’t open that lid to change a fuse or tube or you will void warranty? You must be kidding right? Oh my. 
Some vendors may well void a warranty if the gear is opened up.

If you modify internals yourself, even just replacing a fuse, there is an even better chance warranty will be affected.

People should always check their warranties (if in effect) to see what conditions apply. It’s only common sense.

Vendors can’t afford to give customers a free pass to make changes then come running if a problem under warranty. It is usually not part of the deal!

Do not listen to anyone who just says "do it", no caveats, with gear under warranty. That is bad advice There may or may not be a problem.

If the fuse you put in is found to be the issue should a warranty repair ever be needed, then that is yet another story. It’s part of the risk you take.
Change a blown fuse or an older tube? Yes you can with no warranty worries. These things are owner replaceable and not meant to only be sent back to the manufacturer. 
People should always check their warranties (if in effect) to see what conditions apply. It’s only common sense.
jnorris2005:
A "shill" is defined in the dictionary as "an accomplice of a hawker, gambler, or swindler who acts as an enthusiastic customer to entice or encourage others." 

So you're saying I'm in cahoots with Ted Denney III. And all my enthusiastic comments, its all just an act. 

Right. I see.   

Now here's one for you: delusion. Look it up. 

Here, let me save you some time:
"an idiosyncratic belief or impression that is firmly maintained despite being contradicted by what is generally accepted as reality or rational argument, typically a symptom of mental disorder."


wolf_garcia
Replacing a perfectly good fuse with anything claiming to be better is an utter waste of time and money as they will not improve any aspect of a component’s performance. "Directionality" in a fuse makes no difference as none of the wires or PC traces in your components are likely to be installed with any regard to directionality.
@santsuru OP Be smart not gullible, wolf has given you your answer, just stay the path, and don’t listen to any "fusers" here you’ll just waste time and money, save it and upgrade your equipment instead if you have the upgrade itch.

Cheers George
I have a ARC Ref 6 preamp.  It has 3 fuses: mains, circuit board and CE.  Would those who are fuse believers think I should change all 3 or just the mains fuse?
" Replacing a perfectly good fuse with anything claiming to be better is an utter waste of time and money as they will not improve any aspect of a component's performance. "Directionality" in a fuse makes no difference as none of the wires or PC traces in your components are likely to be installed with any regard to directionality. "
  Two of my favorite fantasies. Fuses act differently when they are wildly overpriced and they can be directional. Wonder if anyone has informed Mr Electron he should be obeying different laws of physics on demand when desired by those with things to sell
Read oldheavymech's reply touting qualifications. Anyone can type what they want and make claims for things that can't be checked. For instance I am a Nuclear Physicist and the first Astronaut to land on Mars where I had to personally maintain all equipment from the 7nm lithographic IC's to the hydraulic motors and lines. Those little 7nm parts were really hard to see but I did it.
Again, thanks to everyone for the feedback. I took the fuses out of my two amps and looked at them and found the following:
Sunfire TGA-7401 has three fuses:                                                                    1 BUSSMDA 15 A 15 amp 250 v   and the marking beside the fuse says 15 amp MDA 15                                                             
      2 BUSSMDL 6 1/4 A 250 v             and the marking beside the fuse says 6 amp MDL/Q
Carver Load Invariant has three fuses:                                                               1 10A 32V 313                              and the markings beside the fuse says 120 VAC 50/60 Hz AC line Fuse                                                               
       2 6 1/4 A 250V 313 2-5 Amp       and the markings beside the fuse says SLO-BLO MDL/Q 
I was wondering if someone can decipher these markings and translate for me into SR orange specifications for which fuses to replace them.
Thank you,
I apologize I tried to format the text but when I posted it the text reformatted itself.
Sunfire TGA-7401 has three fuses:                                                                                     1 BUSSMDA 15 A 15 amp 250 v   and the marking beside the fuse says 15 amp MDA 15                                                            
      2 BUSSMDL 6 1/4 A 250 v             and the marking beside the fuse says 6 amp MDL/Q
Carver Load Invariant has three fuses:                                                                                  1 10A 32V 313                             and the markings beside the fuse says 120 VAC 50/60 Hz AC line Fuse                                                              
       2 6 1/4 A 250V 313 2-5 Amp      and the markings beside the fuse says SLO-BLO MDL/Q
Here we go....  You either got it.  Or, you don't.  Your system will either allow you to hear such differences, or it will not.  It could be your sense in hearing as well.  Some people can not tune a musical instrument.  Others have a keen sense for it.  Let those who want to use fuses not have to have those not so gifted keep trying to discourage them from trying them.  Go find something else to do and listen to your system as loud background music.  The best fuse is having no fuse.  Lately I have been finding passive preamps as my best friends.  As long as you are playing with a DAC which has naturally higher outputs the need for premaplification becomes a moot point. Preamps were needed in the days of low output phono cartridges. Its how they got started. Fuses will effect the sound. If your system is transparent enough to let you know...
I have decided not to change the fuses but for what maybe a different reason than the ones listed above. Firstly I was unable to confirm the type of fuse to switch to and in the process off searching for the correct specifications I was put into contact with Frank Malitz VP of Bob Carver Corporation. He told me over the phone that Bob Carver had said that changing the fuses on those amplifiers would probably not improve the sound. So based on those two reasons I will not pursue this issue any more but I do appreciate everyone's feed back.
Thank you
I wonder how many component manufactures answer that same question all the time. It's probably a recording. 
At one time I was involved with electronics repair and from my experience I can tell you that warranties can very from one manufacturer to another. If your device is still covered by a warranty and you see a label or seal over a screw that must be broken in order to remove a cover double check with the manufacturer  before breaking the seal.
Has your fuse blown ?
If so, it is important to investigate the reason why.  When you replace it, make sure it is the correct rating unless you want to make your insurance company happy not paying you for a fire that you may have caused by tampering with your fuses :-)

Otherwise, why do you feel the need to change your fuse ?


Don’t make a blanket statement regarding warranty not being voided. I have an Audio Research amp and preamp and they told me point blank if I use an aftermarket fuse and there’s an issue, it will void the warranty.
I wouldn't buy a product that you have to send in for service for a simple fuse or tube replacement.
Hi,
always read the manual for any issues regarding warranty.
For most if all manufacturers substituting current fuse with an aftermarket one will most likely void warranty if something goes wrong.
On the other hand any special fuse will have a positive influence on sound.
Make certain you get bi-directional fuses for the A/C current in America.  Tee Hee  to the
uni-directional people.
Fuses do make a difference. I say again, fuses do make a difference.

For those of you arrogantly stating that we are wasting our money, get over it. I am interested in finding out which fuses work best with different fuses and every time I read a fuse thread the same know-it alls have to make themselves heard. Do you feel better after belittling a poster with a genuine desire to learn and seek guidance.

To the naysayers: if you don't think a fuse can change anything here is a challenge and it's FREE. Remove a stock fuse from a component and swap the direction when you replace it and see if you notice any difference. If you don't hear any difference then go find something else to do instead of harassing good folks here who can hear these things.

My wife and I listened to the reversal of a fuse in 6 components and we heard a change in sound on every occasion. 3 of them were the wrong way. When I got to the 5th component, my Wadia DAC I fussed at the back of the unit but did not change the fuse. My wife said she couldn't hear any difference this time, to do it again.

I tried a few different fuses in my DIY power amp and the best was a solid copper rod. I have now soldered a permanent bypass across the fuse holder. Yes that's right I am running direct. Zero fuse. Now relax, do not have a conniption, I am not advocating anyone try this. I am comfortable with my build and only have the amp on when I am in the room. It's my amp, my house and my increased joy.

In this game everything matters, including fuses. You have been challenged, are you up for it? Remember it is free. Try it and report back.
Either this thread is dead or the doubters have taken up my challenge and are too embarrassed to admit that there is a difference.

Post removed 
@ squeak_king_77  This is regarding a stock fuse and remember I mentioned trying to trick my wife by not reversing the fuse and she was expecting to hear a change for better or worse but admitted that she couldn't hear any difference on that occasion.

The change is small with a stock fuse but we are not arguing magnitude of change but only that there is a change. Individually I don't know if I could enter the room and identify the direction of a single fuse, however if all the stock fuses have been correctly placed then I could.

Swapping all the fuses and then changing them back is very disruptive, not gonna happen. I do not need to prove anything to you nor anyone else. I heard what I heard. It was this revelation that lead me to seek better.

This is not about me, its for the arrogant and ignorant who without trying for themselves claim, snake oil, rip off and don't waste your money etc.

If the fuses are of higher quality then the game changes.

Have you tried it and if not why not?
Post removed 
@ squeak_king_77  No problem, you are someone I would welcome feed back from. I have just one SR Blue in my DAC. I had 3 such fuses at one time but found the detail resulted in a slightly over the top edge to the sound. Certain female vocal would make me wince and generally the overall effect was a bit splashy and sibilant. Hoping to find a fuse that lowers the noise floor but without adding anything.