Fuse Upgrade to Ceramic not glass

Been researching fuses and see a need to upgrade to Ceramic over glass but don't neccesarily buy into the hoopla over expensive Fuses, I would say getting rid of any glass type for ceramic is the way to go , I truly believe thats what people hear the difference in , ceramic is a much better material for acoustics than a crap glass / thin wire that can Vibrate and be a weak link in my opinion I'm not about to spend a fortune on fuses either a quality ceramic will suffice. Question where does one find out what fuses are in his gear ? I want to figure out what I need for my Marantz before I take it out of my Rack and spend time  , open her up just to figure out what I need is a big time waster. I called marantz they referred me to a svc Dept but they couldn't tell me either , Is there a way to figure out what I need to have it so I can do this project in one shot?? or maybe I have ceramic already and dont know it , breaking my rack down to figure out cant happen.
Your owners manual should have this info. Otherwise you have to do more work, but telling here on the forum what model you have somone could give you the answer.
Marantz 6013 AVR , Im not a 2 ch guy just yet, I get great sound , Ive done allot to improve on the sound , Id like to hear what a fuse can possibly do for me. I cant find anywhere where they publish fuses , unless i missed something , Ill go dbl check 
I doubt you will hear any difference changing the glass fuse to a ceramic.
Two places that could improve the sound of the AVR is the power cord and the wall duplex receptacle.
Especially if the wall outlet is the original cheap 79 cent residential grade duplex receptacle.
nick, just use the fuses that come with the unit and take your girl out on a date. jea48, I have news for you. None of us can hear the difference between a "cheap" run of the mill outlet and a fancy gold one. Buy music not mythology.
jea48, I have news for you. None of us can hear the difference between a "cheap" run of the mill outlet and a fancy gold one. Buy music not mythology.
None of us......
You got a turd in your pocket?
Speak for yourself!

By the way YOU don’t have to buy an expensive audio grade outlet to hear a difference.
If the fuse access is not visible then it is inside the unit and it could be in a clip holder, which you can pop out and change, or it can be soldered in, which makes it more difficult to change. The only way to tell other than opening the hood is to refer to the service manual. Marantz (or any other company) will not tell you anything that involves opening the chassis for that implies there are user serviceable parts inside.
nickaboy1: Been researching fuses and see a need to upgrade to Ceramic over glass but don’t neccesarily buy into the hoopla over expensive Fuses
Atta boy nickaboy, don’t fall for the hoopla. I use those fuses and that’s all it is, hoopla. Pure unadulterated hoopla. Not a shred of substance behind it. Won’t do a thing for your system. No one will ever notice.

Oh wait, what’s this? https://systems.audiogon.com/systems/8367

Suffice it to say, it was the biggest, most powerful musical experience I’ve ever experienced in a home setting.


Here is a good cheap duplex receptacle.
New US $8.99 + shipping.
Contact the seller and make sure what is pictured is exactly what you are buying.


The outlet has a brass non plated backstrap.
Internal contacts are non plated brass heavy duty commercial/industrial grade.
The duplex is rated for 15 amp but the contacts are the same contacts that are used in the 20 amp 5362 duplex outlet. The only difference between the 5262 (15 amp) and 5362 (20 amp) is the faceplate on the outlets.

This outlet would be my first choice. Why? Because it is built exactly like the old no longer made Hubbell HBL8200H/8300H slim/slender compact body duplex receptacle. The only difference is the IG5262/5362 (IG = Isolated Ground) is built with the backstrap and center hub, that is used to support the wall cover plate, from the two IG equipment ground contacts of the outlet.

You won’t be using the outlet as an IG, (Isolated Ground) outlet. You will want to wire it as a standard grounding type outlet.

Simple to do.   


If the wall box is plastic.

You will need to pick up a couple of grounding pigtails.


First you will need to install one of the green grounding pigtails to the yoke, supporting backstrap, of the outlet so it will be bonded to the branch circuit EGC (Equipment Grounding Conductor).

Look at the photo of the outlet:
See the outlet 6/32 support screw at the top of the picture? That silver looking stainless clip is called an auto ground. Remove the 6/32 screw from the clip. Install the 6/32 screw through the eyelet of one of the ground jumpers. Install the screw back into the auto ground clip of the yoke. (The spade end of the grounding jumper will be cut off. Insulation of the jumper wire will be removed for connection to the branch circuit bare copper EGC ).
The other green grounding pigtail Fork end will connect to the the green EGC screw on the duplex outlet. Cut the eyelet off the other end of the ground jumper. Remove enough insulation from the jumper wire for connection to EGC.

Next twist the two bared stranded wires of the two jumpers together. Use a wire nut/connector to connect the ground jumpers to the branch circuit EGC.

2nd choice for a good duplex receptacle.
Also a great outlet. Though from my listening experience, and that of others, it will cause the sound of the audio equipment plugged into it to have a warmer sound than the slim/slender compact body outlet above.

From my listening experience, and that of countess others, the HBL8200H/8300H has a more neutral, natural, sound to it.
The Hubbell HBL8300H outlet was the one that Albert Porter had cryoed and sold here on Agon for years until Hubbell stopped making it several years ago. Albert then ended up using the IG slim/slender compact body outlet to get the same sound as the discontinued HBL8300H outlet.

Just do an archive search here on Agon for users that recommend the Porter Ports for many years and probably may still be using them.

I cant tell if your mocking me or not Miller carbon. I do believe ceramic would be better than glass , what do you have in your expensive Rig ? 
EDIT to my above post:

Picture shows the backstrap non plated brass.
Specs say:
Clamping Plate Nickel plated brass

You can still find/buy this outlet without the nickel plating. Also make sure what you buy does not have nickel plated contacts.

Post removed 
I cant tell if your mocking me or not Miller carbon. I do believe ceramic would be better than glass , what do you have in your expensive Rig ?

If you can't tell, and can't even be bothered to click the link and read and learn for yourself, then why would I waste my time? Only thing you leave me is sport and mockery. In this you provide what we call a target rich environment.   

The link is there. The choice is yours.
It sounds as if you are trying to correct a problem not in evidence. Are there any sonic aberrations you might ascribe to a vibrating fuse?  If you hear nothing wrong, maybe there is nothing wrong.
Looking at pictures of the back of your amplifier, I do not see any provisions for a fuse holder, either integral with the IEC or as a stand-alone cylinder type holder. If there is nothing in your owner’s manual, you will need to pop the top to see if your amp even has fuses.
Some could argue that sand-filled ceramic fuses should better damp any vibrational energy that might affect the sound, and I have replaced most or all of my fuses with those, with the result that nothing much changed. You might get halfway there by simply wrapping some Teflon tape around the glass body of your fuse(s).....if your amp even has fuses.
If you want to get really adventurous, and mitigate all possible risks that vibration of your fuse(s) may be subliminally affecting your enjoyment of your system, then you could drill a small hole in a standard glass fuse and use a tiny hypodermic needle to inject your favorite non-conductive damping material (such as beeswax) into the body of your fuse(s). Or, you could pay Audio Magic $225 for as many of theirs as you need.
BTW, the Hubbell HBL8300H Porter Port outlets recommended by @jea48 do hold power cord plugs securely and sound pretty good. I still use two of them in my system. However, I cannot attest to the additional benefit added by the cryo treatment Albert laid on them.
Miller Carbon , I did see the link of your system but your not telling me anything , Im not a mind reader. you have all this nice stuff but you also have a Maglight and a filing cabinet in the corner with a drape over it with an outdated room and Crap couch , if everything matters start with the room , you have to live in it. and to all the dooschs oh your looking for problems that are not there , why are you even here? there are people selling expensive fuses and people are buying these things and been looking at youtube guys explaining what's really going on and the consensus is yes glass has to go and ceramic is in fact better , do I want to spend $200 on a fuse from SR NO! , inexpensive Ceramic will do just fine , you have to pick your battles put some thought into it and do what you think is right. 
nickaboy1 OP ...

Go to Home Depot and buy an Orange Outlet as "Jea48" showed you in his post. It will be a nice upgrade that you will readily hear.

As to what most of us "in the know" are using, they are Synergistic Research "Orange" fuses. $150 per pop (no pun intended). Is $150 for a simple fuse expensive? Yes, but for what they do, they are well worth the money. 

Question ... If you have already come to the conclusion that "inexpensive ceramic fuses will do just fine," then what is the point of this thread?

One thing to keep in mind is the amperage of the ceramic fuses. With these high end fuses they usually say to go .25 amps higher than what is in your receiver. They are more sensitive and blow quicker. You can call SR or do your own research. These are typically slow blow fuses. They are not cheap so do a little YT research along with calling SR. On another note unless you have a killer surround sound receiver I feel you do not need this before other things. You need a better power cord. When I put on a Nordost Blue Heaven power cord on my Denon 4806. I thought my system sounded 25%-50% better. If you are trying to make your SS receiver sound like a decent 2 channel system don’t. Except for the Nordost power cord and the orange outlets from Home Depot. The reason I am ok with these upgrades is because they will be good for several components for a very long time. Another thing you should look into is Puritan PSM136 or PSM156 power conditioner. It will change your life. It is not cheep but will last a very, very long time. You know what they say: “Buy once cry once”. When you go to two channel then get into the tweaks. BTW, Try not to burn the bridge with MC, the king of tweaks.  I shop at this store in the Chicagoland area:
They let you try most stuff out before you purchase it. Also, yYu might want to stop by this place soon. They have Magnapan MG20s on a PassLab external crossover on for Bel Canto mono blocks. Crazy good! I wish I had the room for the setup. It was very cool to hear the setup. 
After two and a half years of regular use, I blew a fuse in my Don Sachs preamp. Luckily the preamp came with an extra fuse.
It was a standard 1A 3AG slow-blow fuse, like the one that blew, but a different brand with a slightly different/thicker wound filament but nothing special. Slightly odd thing was it was a tighter fit in fuse receptacle. Old one fell out of the receptacle cap...this one would need to be pulled out. Just a minor detail I noticed.

Well it actually does sound better. Now wondering if a ’tired’ fuse is simply what we’re hearing? Can this be possible: old fuse syndrome?

More likely bad contact: use Graphene Contact Enhancer from the Mad Scientist (madscientistaudio.com): and buy the best fuse you can afford
Dude thanks thats what I needed to see that link is exactly what I was looking for . I do believe these fuses would be better than stock and who knows maybe I try an SR fuse if this works I can always return it 
brubin  your the man , thanks some of these guys are no help at all . now do you have any idea how I can find out what's in my receiver without taking it apart . my receiver is in my rack so a tear down has to be done I want to avoid looking to see and waiting a week for fuses to come in . I have a Marantz sr6013, I get awesome sound from this guy and after all the tweaks Ive done it really does sound great but before I upgrade to a Processor and amp I want to see if fuses would make a difference . no one tweak makes a world of difference but when you add them all together it really does make a difference. Its like putting an exhaust on your car , if you dont increase the airflow in you cant really get the performance of the exhaust. this is a hobby for me and not to sound like a douche like some people I do believe everything matters but I also have to make educated decisions and draw the line on some things, I have other hobbies and things going on in my life , I cant lay my gear all over the floor Like Miller Carbon , I have a sexy wife at home. some of these guys are against surge protectors of any kind so why dont we just get rid of the fuse all together and just silver solder it and be done with it , Ive never blew a fuse in my life yet , I always use surge protection. the whole receiver is a fuse if it goes it wasn't meant to be get another one. 
Hi guys,  just want to stop what might or might not be a bit of confusion. Remember in amplifiers fast or slow blow have their place.  Normally fast blow are used on the rails where they need to blow FAST in case of a problem. This prevents taking out components on the board.  Slow blow are normally used in the power supply where they can handle minor fluctuations in power without blowing all the time.  
I can't say always,  but normally fuses need to be kept as designed. 
Normally fast blow are used on the rails where they need to blow FAST in case of a problem.

DC rail fuses are next to useless and add resistance and sometimes "bad contact" to the dc line, if either blow, it’s catastrophic for the output stage anyway. That’s why most amps these days don’t have them any more like some used to in the bad old days.

Cheers George
nickaboy1 - look at the manual for details.  check the back of the amp (with power off and unpluged from wall)  you can access the fuses and determine sizes.   As far as surge protection etc,  look into power conditioners that are parallel filtered.  not series.  like 
STOP looking at Paper Specification  -  you can pick any equipment on paper specs and it wouldnt sound as good as you though it should.  Us specs to get you to the area. e.g.  you can use a GPS to finding a city (like specs)   - but you need to walk around to find that out of the way resturant that only the locals know about.  Dont be a tourist.  

Some of the worst sounding equipment can have the best specs. 

Some of the worst sounding equipment can have the best specs.

All decent audio equipment is designed and built using specs, measurements and bench tests, if not turn around and run away from it. Granted some things like excess negative feedback to give better pseudo specs is detrimental to sound quality.

"If" one understands them Stereophile bench tests give a good indication of what an amp can do into certain speaker loads, and many times correlate also with what the reviewer has said it does and doesn’t do, instead of just hanging one out there and hope it sticks.

Cheers George
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