Upgraded fuses have generated a plethora of divergent responses, from those that HAVE ACTUALLY TRIED THEM, regarding their ways of affecting the performance of various components. Of those that HAVE ACTUALLY TRIED THEM(and responded to queries), some cannot hear a difference, while most have noticed a significant(worth the money) difference. It is the consensus, that the performance of various brands, is also system-dependent. Before spending the big bucks, it may be worth your effort, to try a couple of the HI-FI Tuning, Classic Gold fuses, that Parts Connexion is clearancing, just to see if you hear an improvement in your particular system. They’re easily good enough, to let you know if you can. They have a 16A, Slo-Blo available, that will protect your amp(less than an 8% uptick, in amperage). https://www.partsconnexion.com/FUSE-70561.html For the 2A fuse, I’d go down a bit, since they don’t have anything close enough. My guess is, a 1.6A will probably hold. https://www.partsconnexion.com/FUSE-68996.html Then again, you could just try the Golds in your amp first and proceed from there. That’s how I started my fuse trials(main power amps). Have fun and happy listening!
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All of the fuses you have listed will change the sound of your system. I do think you would be most happy with the Synergistic Black fuse. It is more money than the HiFi fuses but the improvement is substantially greater.
The 30 day trial or just send them back makes it easy to give them a listen. Return postage will be less than $10.00. Give them 24 hours to open up and 150 hours to completely settle in. So install, leave the equipment on and make a final decision at the end of 7 days.
Take baby steps. The SR fuses might be the best way to go but take heed of rodman99999's advice and try out the fuses on discount.
Just yesterday I tried out three different fuses that I had laying around on my Kinki EX-M1 integrated. They all sounded different. For awhile I settled on the PADIS fuse as I liked what it did to the bass and mids.
A few days prior, I enjoyed the company of a recording engineer as we listened to one of his recordings. Although he felt the sound bettered most of what he's heard at audio shows, it was still off and simply wrong as it related to his recording and what he knew it could sound like.
Perplexed, I realized that the fuse wasn't the one that came with the unit and put that one back in. I believe it's a Schurter, ceramic tubed fuse that you can get for $2.00, which is way better than any of the glass fuses out there.
The bass and mids tightened up with better attack, separation, and decay and the highs got airier and much more realistic. It's back now to sounding like you're in the studio with an almost stark reality. Also, I have gone through two different speaker cables since the use of the PADIS fuse so I neglected to take those variable into account. Too much fiddling.
Long story long, try out the cheaper fuses first and see what direction they take you. Then proceed from there.
All the best,
Paul McGowan of PS Audio has stated at his website that fuses do make an audible difference. I certainly heard a nice improvement upgrading the fuse in the PS Audio Direct wave Transport and also their DAC.
I have replaced the original fuses on my three different Pass Lab amplifiers with the Synergistic Research Black fuses, and in each amplifier their was a significant sonic improvement. I have since upgraded to the SR Blue fuses but there is a great price to benefit ratio with the Black fuse.
I have tried the Isoclean, Hi-Fi, Padis, Furutech, and SR 20 fuses and all of these fuses make a small difference. The Synergistic Research Black and the Blue fuses have a much greater and better effect than these other fuses I have tried.
I have spent several hundred hours comparing fuses and the above is a simple and condensed summary.
nonoise. . . I tried out three different fuses that I had laying around on my Kinki EX-M1 integrated. They all sounded different.Coincidentally, I recently did the same thing with my Class A SS amp. I have the stock glass fuse, a SR Black and a SR Blue - all burned in. Changing the fuses was almost like like tube-rolling. Very subjective.
For the past few years, I’ve been tweaking the cabling and power conditioning. As the power gets cleaner and cleaner, the effect of the fuses becomes more obvious. A well-mic’d piano is the reference for my listening. I’m leaning going back to the stock glass fuse. TBD.
The Pass Labs fuses are near the A/C outlet in their own screw- in fuse holder. The models are INT-60, HPA-1, andFirst Watt 7. The PS Audio fuse is inside the component. Paul McGowan of PS Audio has stated he wished they had made the fuse accessible from the outside, but the internal fuse location was picked before he personally became a believer in audio grade fuses !