Furutech spades on copper cables

I want to make DIY speaker cables.
I have Furutech copper-silver-copper-rhodium plated spades, that I'm planning to terminate copper multistrand wire with.
Speaker binding posts are WBT 0710 Ag (Silver).
My question is- would terminating copper wire with this particular connector, vs. the gold-plated one, be a problem?
Is there any rule of thumb with regards to matching cable material with the material used on speaker binding posts (Silver with silver, or copper with copper), or with the material, used on the cable connectors?
You shouldn't have any problems with mixing different metals on your termination.
Experiment until you find what you like.
The primary thing is to have a VERY tight connection.
If you cannot crimp the wire into the spade opening tightly, then it will not be nearly as good. Even getting a little smooth face vise to clamp them down would work. (having a oval half circle tube like or whatever form in it to squeeze the crimp properly would be even better.
I have a hydralic crimper. not the worlds best, but what it crips stays crimped!
An alternative is to us some screw and have it just right to capture the wire in the sleeve tightly. Or a solid copper wire you can fit in to fill the opening completely before soldering. Sloppy (loose) crimp and then solder is not a good idea.
If this is hard to do. Then best to buy spades with a built in screw to lock down on the wire.
I use WBT, they are expensive, but will last forever. Even if you change cables, they are easy to reuse.
Elizabeth says,
I have a hydralic crimper. not the worlds best, but what it crips stays crimped!
I second her use of the hydraulic crimper (like the one linked below) that I used on some pretty high quality speaker cables I assembled. Using stranded wire cables, the test crimp I tried almost appeared to be a continuous piece of metal between the spade and wire. Obviously not as good as the new machine Cardas has been using, but as good as I have seen from typical consumer crimping devices.

Thank you,
I have ratcheting crimping tool. So far, I only tried it once with Analysis Plus spades, and it was absolutely PITA experience- it takes huge effort to crimp this fairly thick-walled connector.
I would imagine, hydraulic should take much less effort?
Mitch2- are the casts supplied with that tool suitable fro audio purposes?
I own the same Harborfreight tool. ($70 or so) It is REALLY really easy to use. The super 'jaws of crush' they have are awesome! (I have very weak hand strength, and the hydralic tool is super easy for me to use)
The one (small) flaw is they come with a set of ten or so pairs of 'dies' with hexagonal shaped crimps. They are not the best shape, and do not go to a very large size, so if you can get a few cut by a machinist to oval or round shapes THEN the Harborfreight tool is a perfect device. i highly recommend the tool, with the caveat that you find someone to reshape a few sets of the included dies (removable) to be a better and larger shape (oval,or round) for audio use. With that Whoo Hoo! you will never be disappointed
The tool comes with a wide range of die sizes and I did find them to be suitable for the Furutech spades I used. I have previously used the larger spades with the two set screws;
but for my most recent application I used the smaller spades, choosing a minimal material approach,
The dies have a hexagonal shape and do not have a center point, like with a hand crimp tool, but the superior pressure provided an exceptionally tight fit. I have not tried the tool with solid core wire although I suspect it will work equally well. The wire I used was;
So how did the cables come out? Did you compare them to others?
They came out great. I made a bi-wire pair for my monoblock amps so they have four spades at the speaker end and a pair of spades on each amp end. I toyed with the idea of doubling up the bass run but after consideration I thought the symmetry of using the cables the way they were intended and of running the same cables to both LF and MF/HF would be preferrable. They are about 12.5 awg cables but the run is only 4 feet so the gauge is IMO totally adequate. I need to update my system page because of several changes in equipment and cables but haven't had the time. Regarding the sound of the cables, the Furutech reviews pretty well nail it, they deliver a very balanced, smooth, solid, and slightly dynamic sound that does not "wow" you but just seems right over time. I have used a variety of really good cables from Cardas, Purist, Harmonic Tech (excellent speaker cables), and most recently AZ double barrel, and I do not miss any of those. Here are some links:
Not sure why the links posted as shown above since I entered links to the specific associated reviews and product (in the case of the Furutech link), but Dagogo and 6moons both have specific reviews of Furutech cables you should be able to find.
This Furutech cable is expensive- I need 10 ft. speaker cables in bi-wire config., meaning 40 ft of cable- almost $1500 in cable only. I already have connectors- another $200?
But it seems you like it quite a bit.
Maril555, yes I do like the Furutech stuff and it is somewhat expensive, but less than bi-wire Cardas GR in 10 ft. lengths. Furutech also makes less expensive bulk OFC cable. The Furutech cable can be purchased from Partsconnexion, who has sale pricing of 15 to 20 percent off about 3 to 4 times per year.

I also like the Harmonic Technology cables, which you could probably purchase used for less. I would recommend two single runs for your bi-wire run. I have used Pro 9+ for LF and Pro 11+ for MF/HF and that worked out pretty good. Pro 9 Reference is good in the bi-wire configuration. These HT cables come up for sale used in 10 ft. lengths occasionally and you could purchase one 10 ft. length and then run jumpers until the second opportunity comes along. Then, if you like the single wire better, simply sell the second pair. If you only have one set of binding posts at your amp, you can still run double cables, just stack the spades or go with a spades and bananas set-up. The Speltz option would be a very economical way for you to try single wire and biwire options in the length you need. There are a host of other inexpensive options if you search these threads, including DIY with CAT5, Canare star quad, VH Audio bulk wires or others.
These would be hard to soundly beat for the price, and they are in your length and bi-wire with two separate and dedicated wire sizes;
I'm not sure, they would work with my speakers. I have Avantgarde Duo Omega G2- they have two pairs of binding posts- one on the midrange driver, and the other for the tweeter and active sub. So, I think, I need double- barrel with the same gauge on both parts.
Or, a single wire and a jumper.
Sounds way cool.