For those using 'Holographic Mylar' as a tt drive

belt, I'm wondering which tape you're using to attach the ends.

DougDeacn found a site that carries 1" splicing tape a while back (see below). Unfortunately, they are in and out of stock so I'd check back often. I tried ordering some a couple of months ago and they were out of stock. After trying again a month later, the tape was back in stock (I ordered the last roll, however).

I'm probably the one who got the last roll before Chris ordered the first time. :-)

The good news is that 1 roll is probably a life time supply.
I am using the tape that came with my TAC splicer on holographic mylar. This tape has done very good. I have had this though for 3-4 years and will soon need to buy replacement tape. I presume the tape hasn't changed but do not know for sure.
That is the right kind of tape, though mine's clear and not blue (thank goodness). It produces stronger and more permanent belt joins than those silver splicing tabs.

If enough people order maybe they'll keep it in stock. There must be millions of TT owners with quiet, low-cogging motors who want to try this. ;-)

Mothra once posted that he could find video splicing tape if anyone had trouble. You might try contacting him.

1" wide tape is best but you must cut and tape by hand, not in a splicing block. Fortunately, that produces better results, at least IME. Just takes a little practice.

I work on a small sheet of glass, which makes a great surface for keeping the mylar aligned and flat and for cutting clean lines. My other tools include a steel straightedge, Post-It notes (for holding the mylar in position) and a #11 Xacto blade. Myopic eyesight and a light touch are a big help too!

It's best to cut on a 30-45 degree angle and then apply the tape at the same angle, ACROSS the belt. Burnish the tape down well with a thumbnail and trim the excess. Voila! A belt that should last for years.
I've found that the half inch splicing tape works fine. It must be applied in the direction of the mylar, however, which takes a little more care/skill/luck. The one inch can be applied across the splice, but must be trimmed.

Materials are cheap. Buy some and make a few belts, and you'll get the feel for the job. My belts last a long time. C'est pas trop difficile.
1/2" tape here (and they're in Oregon-I'm doing my part to help my state's economy!)

Ckniker- thanks for the info. I use reel to reel so I was familiar with that site, but wasn't sure if you guys didn't have some 'super-high-cost-but-ultimately-very-musical' stuff. Plus, as you say, they're out of the wide tape.

Dan-ed- Damn you! Damn you, I say! May the 'Curse of No More Splicing Tape' befall you sir! (-:

Dmailer- Thanks. I've made my own audio tape splicer by routing a dado in a piece of Corian, so I may do the same with this 1/2" mylar-what they charge for those commercial blocks is a crime (I'll do the same for anyone here who wants one-just drop me a line).

DD- great info with the whole process lined out. Par for the course for DougDeacon. Thanks, and hope all's well.

Milos- Thanks, I've already got the mylar, so I'll soon be good to go. This is for a diy tt-is it possible to post a photo on this site, or a hyperlink?
I see the html address auto-magically becomes a hyperlink. I probably knew that......

The advantage of taping across the belt is the same as cutting on an angle. It lets you avoid vertical joins or material boundaries. Those can cause a thump, or at least some microscopic slippage, when they encounter tight bends like the motor capstan. Making the cut and taping on an angle greatly reduces that problem.

Good advice about just making a few belts. Getting a feel for it is really all it takes!
True, that, Doug. I might have been clearer in my post. I cut the splicing tape on a bias, to smooth the icky thump--I never heard the thump, but the spliced area is stiffer than the mylar alone, as can easily be seen when it passes the capstan.

Worth the extra effort, no doubt.

Btw, Johnbrown, if it wasn't noted elsewhere, the splice tape goes on the outside of the belt. Bet you knew that already, owning a reel-to-reel..... Nice idea on the splicing block, too.
"Smooth the icky thump"? Sounds like a new dance craze!

That increased stiffness is visible, as you said. If the patch were much longer it would probably cause excessive slippage. I once tried 3 mil mylar tape and that was much too stiff. It couldn't make the turn around the motor without slipping.

Anyone want some 1/2" x 3 mil mylar? There's 96 feet left on the roll. Free to good home. :-)