Explain it to me like im 4 please? dedicated line


Thanks for the help in advance.
I am building as we speak my dedicated room, unfortunately the dimensions werent flexible but everything else really is.
My room is:
11.5 wide
27 deep
9.5 high, (cathedral)

My system consists of:
Proceed Avp-s
Linar 250 Amp
Wadia 23 Source
Levinson 36 DAC
Nautilus 804
Nautilus HTM-2 center
Boston VR-MX surrounds
Phillips 963 DVD

Cabling:
Transparent Reference balanced 2 pairs
Transparent Super Bicable LCR

Power:
PS Audio PS300 MW with all blackgate caps
Shunyata Sidewinder
Michael Wolf Gain
Synergistic Research a/c Master coupler

Treatments:
2 14x48 bass ASC Bass Traps

My Basic question is...
I have NO CLUE about wiring, i am planning on at least 4
dedicated circuits and have researched dilligently in the forum here, but im totally lost.(1 Source/preamp, dac, transport. 2nd for amp. 3rd for multi channel amp. 4th for video.) also, all lighting and other outlets will be on their own circuits.

I have read alot about isolated grounds and stranded wiring as being the way to go.

I live in seattle so i have basically every opportunity to
get what i need for wire, but after reading everything i still have no idea how to physically install this, nor do i have any idea when i look at the store to pick the exact wire i need. (what type of shielding, stranded vs. non-stranded) etc etc etc.

Luckily my electric panel will only be about 18 feet away from my components (all wiring is brand new)
Can anyone explain to a total wiring novice how to
physically wire this?
Maybe a picture or two?

Will hospital grade outlets be what i need or do i need to go further?

If anyone would like i can send pictures of the framed in room so they have an idea of what im looking at.

I have installed 2x6 walls and ceilings and am going to use 5/8 sheetrock with blown in insulation in the ceiling.
Should i use a heavy texture on the walls and celings to reduce reflections?

All help will be appreciated more than you know.
Thanks again.
Greg
mrfastguy250aol
Macdonj: It should provide some protection -- however, there would be leaks (at least, where the wire comes out of the wall) since shielding should continue along the entire length of the conductor.

However, Sean is the person to apply to for dependable info; he consults in RF where wire shielding (and other electrical/~onic variables related to wires) are critical.
Your electrician and town inspector may balk at installing the speaker wire that is not code rated for in-wall use. Not many are.
Gregm,

I've often wondered about A/V cables through the walls in metallic conduit that is grounded. Wouldn't that act like a shield and reduce RFI/EMI?
"Also, im looking at running my 3 Transparent Super Bi-cables in wall and thru 2.5 inch plastic conduit, will this sonically disturb anything?"

It shouldn't (disturb anything, that is). If anything, it might improve things as the wire is less vulnerable to airborne vibration. BUT, it won't be easy to change cables though!
Thanks for the responses, i do know basic wiring and have a electrician to do the work. specifically what im more looking for is how to ground the system properly and specifically what type of wiring and shielding to use. Most of the posts ive read have been in detail about that but so far are way over my league, when people start using any abbreviation more complex than bnc or xlr i get a bit lost ;-)

Also, im looking at running my 3 Transparent Super Bi-cables in wall and thru 2.5 inch plastic conduit, will this sonically disturb anything?

Obviously most electricians could care less about sonic differences between dedicated circuits and the eyebrow raises ive gotten from him so far are more than comical about what im doing or attempting to do.
Thanks again guys.
I appreciate the do-it-yourself attitude but my recommendation to you if you have never performed any type of electrical work is to hire a professional. I realize the temptation to do all renovation work yourself because of the cost savings and the assurance of getting what you want the way you want. But in the case of electrical work, especially with the complexity of work you are looking to undertake (which involves installing boxes, running wire, installing all outlets/light switches and fixtures, tapping into and installing new circuits in you circuit breaker box, and then you have to make sure everything is wired correctly), this is not only potentially dangerous but potentially lethal if you are not sure what you are doing. I deal with renovations and new construction all the time with the business I'm in but with the exception of replacing fixtures, outlets and light switches I will typically hire out for more complex electrical work. There may also be specific electrical codes in your area that will dictate certain installation methods and/or materials.

With that said, you are installing quite a few dedicated lines. One thing to be conscious of is when you have audio equipment plugged into different lines (even dedicated lines) the possiblity exists for having ground loop problems if all your equipment is connected to one piece like the amp or preamp. I mention this because I had two dedicated lines with video equipment connected to one and audio to the other but the system was plagued with a ground loop. Now I have everything connected to one circuit which eliminated the problem. But hey, it's relatively cheap to add them now and if a ground loop is a problem later it's as simple as plugging everything into one circuit.

One layer of 5/8" drywall is good. Two layers of 1/2" drywall would be great. Stagger the joints and glue between layers. Solid. I can't imagine the textured finish on the ceiling and walls making that much of an acoustical difference. I would go with a smooth finish just based on looks.

If any of your walls are exterior and noise transmission from street to listening room or from listening room to neighbors is a potential problem be sure and add insulation to your walls, not just your ceiling. For 2x6 walls you will want to use an R19 thermal insulation with vapor barrier between studs and drywall. If you want to isolate walls from other rooms in the house add 3" acoustical batts between studs.

Completely rewiring and renovating a 12'x27'x9'-6" room to a dedicated listening room with four dedicated lines is a big job. There is a lot to know. And I'm totaly envious. I would be tickled to death just to have a separate listening room instead of sharing duties with the living room. In any event, good luck with your project. Sweat equity makes the finished project a lot sweeter.
I usually communicate well with 4year olds. You sure don't sound like one--so I may be in over my head. The general premise is not to tax any one outlet. A standad 15 amp line shouldn't be taxed beyond 1500 watts.--This allows for some headroom. Your amps are the greedy items. I did't see what you were going with,for amps. There are some hungry mono blocks that need their own line.(each) All this means is run one line from the breaker box to one duplex. Spread the same; one duplex from the breaker box, thing around the room. One in the back in case you go with a front projector. With the conditioners you are running;standard 12 ga.romex should be fine. Use Hospital grade duplexes as a minimum. Outlets on the floor where the amp sets would be nice. Now back to the cartoons A?