It’s still just soldering. Protect the component from excess heat(I use mini alligator clips(heat sinks), on the leads closest to the part). Using solders with low melting points(ie: eutectics, Cardas, Wonder, etc) makes things easier too. With some components(ie: some electrolytic caps) , it’s critical to observe/annotate their polarity, where applicable. (https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/polarity/alI) If soldering point to point, made a good mechanical connection first. If your intent is to replace the capacitors, that have suffered from age: just do the electrolytics. Most other types(ie: film, tantalum, ceramics), don’t dry out or leak. Upgrading(POOGE) is another story. Have fun! https://www.powells.com/book/audio-electronics-the-pooge-chronicles-9781882580149
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I doubt that's going to be point to point work. Rodman's advice seems solid to me. Tantalum do go bad, but I wouldn't worry about those. Don't rely on the schematic, diagram, or board markings when replacing caps. The working unit is the Bible so just be sure to replace things like you found them. Manuals and board markings are wrong all the time.
The preamp is AR LS3.
The schematic is available on line. https://www.vintageshifi.com/repertoire-pdf/pdf/telecharge.php?pdf=Audio-Research-LS3-LS3B-Schematic...
There are 32 capicators. All of them need to be changed?
Avoid changing caps in the signal path (shouldn't be any).
Find a 10K resistor or so to help you discharge caps. They can hold those very high voltages for a long time. Measure V before touching them. Use a resistor to discharge safely.
Ensure replacement caps:
V = or > originalTemperature = or greateruF = identical.
The uF in the primary filter caps can be a little larger (uF) but don't go nuts. You stress the transformer and bridge rectifier.
Higher Temperature = longer life.
Triple check polarity on removal and installation.
No, you only want to replace electrolytic caps in the power supply. Changing the film caps is not necessary and can affect sound and retail value.
I'm not sure if you are aware, but the volts in tube gear is lethal. Like 300 V or more is quite common.
So, pay extra attention to finding the voltage supplies, and measuring that they have fully discharged, using a resistor to drain high voltages.
So in the schematic, only worry about changing caps with a polarity (+) sign.
First, the preamp is old, second there is an audible hum even at the lowest volume.
Also, I’ve read many glorious stories of old preamps sounding much better after recaps, so I want to give a try by myself.
There are only 4 caps with + signs, so replacing 4 would be relatively simple, I hope.
Is Nichicon a good brand?
Any other recommendations for hifi audio grade capacitors?