ExactPower EP15A

I was thinking of getting one of these after my not so stellar audition of the PS Audio P-500. Guys that have or have had one of these (the latest model)good or bad stories about them? Do you have everything plugged in to it or just front end gear? Break in time? Different power cords? I've heard that Ps Audio tried to buy the patent from ExactPower but they weren't going for it. It EP15A looks a better design all the way around. I was thinking of the World Power Power Wing but it doesn't do anything as far as maintaining voltage from a low or high voltage situation or correcting your 60 hertz signwave. The EP15A will maintain 120 volts at it's output while the incoming voltage drops as much as 86 volts, upon hitting 85 volts the unit shuts down to protect your gear also keeps you a 120 output up to 139 volts and shuts down at 140 volts, doing all this with minamal heat unlike the PS Audio P-500 that was spontanious combustion hot with just a 12% 52 watt load on it. Thanks
I love my EP15A. I didn't know about the patent deal you mentioned, but it speaks to the unigue circuit design. No other power regenerator offers the features of this unit.

I use an Audio Metallurgy 9AWG power cord. My amp, Martin Logan CLS's and Depth subwoofer are plugged into it -- as well as a 15 foot 10AWG cord to an ExactPower SP15A (balanced power unit) which then powers all the front end stuff. This is the optimum setup, per Brent Jackson at ExactPower.

You can do it without the SP if necessary for $$ reasons, and just plug a high quality power strip (with no breakers or filters) into the EP if you need a few more outlets for the front end stuff.

Both units run very cool. I have a lot of equipment (check my system) and the whole shebang only draws 425 watts or so, with every component powered up.
I agree with Nsgarch. I used to use the PS Audio 600 for my front end gear only. I did a direct comparison of the PS Audio 600 to the EP15A in my system and the EP15A was a definite improvement - more extended on the top end and tighter bass. And, of course, the EP15A runs much cooler. I now use 2 of these units. One for my amps and one for my front end. I think one could handle the entire load, but due to equipment location, it was mroe cost effective to have 2 of them. Nsgarch - did you notice a further improvement in your front end with the addition of the SP15A versus just having the front end gear plugged directly into the Ep15A?
Babybear, re the SP15A balanced power unit:

I considered two EP's for the same reason as you did, but with 1500 watts of available output, you'd have to be running some BIG Krells or tube amps to need more than one EP. And the front end stuff, especially CDT's and DAC's (for some reason) seem to really benefit from balanced power; while big amps, powered electostats and subs don't really.

After I'd had the one EP for a while, with everything plugged into it, (and boy, what a difference that made!) I spoke w/ Brent at Exactpower. I'd already decided to do balanced power for my front end stuff, but I wanted to find out if I should just power the SP from a wall outlet near the front end, or power it from the EP using a long power cord. Brent recommended the latter. And in fact, I think ExactPower has a block diagram of just such a setup on their website now.

And yes, all the front end stuff performed even better with balanced power: blacker background on digital and almost imperceptable noise and hum on phono.

BTW, in case anyone was going to ask, with this kind of arrangement, one doesn't (in fact shouldn't) lift any grounds, and especially not at the balanced power unit! Just plug all the three prong AC plugs right into the outlets.

"And yes, all the front end stuff performed even better with balanced power: blacker background on digital and almost imperceptable noise and hum on phono."
Exactly my experience as well. Robert Stein from the Cable company, who sold me my Exact Powers, put it this way: "The EP15" is the more important unit, but with the SP15 you´ll get another third in improvement. I think this was as good a description as you can get when talking about sonic improvements.
Nsgarch, not lifting any ground pins can be a problem. Some PC like the Electraglide Epiphany and the Crystal are purely two wires with no obvious connection to the grounding pin. What kind of issue may be encountered using such chords on balanced SP15A?
I'll take a stab at Guido's question and suggest that using cords other than those offering a ground wire with true balanced power conditioners will result in less than optimal performance. In fact, I read this on the website of a manufacturer of balanced power conditioners. Unfortunately, I can't remember which one. The bottom line was that balanced power conditioners rely on an intact ground for the proper functioning of the conditioner.
Grant, this begs the question. . . Why do some makers of chords like Electraglide, Crystal, and possibly Elrod not ground their PCs?
Scott Hall, owner of Electa Glide Audio, specifically told me he does not ground his cords because he believes they sound better constructed that way.

It's interesting to note that my Denon 3910 universal player does not have a ground, as evidenced by the lack of a third pin on the EIC connector.
Guido, Tvad (and the manufacturers he refers to) are correct, and you shouldn't use two-wire/two-prong cords with BP units IF the equipment you are using them with is originally designed with/for grounded AC plugs. Primarily for 1.) safety, and 2.) for noise cancellation benefits.

That said, I am using some two-prong equipment (tuner and cassette deck) plugged into my BP unit and they seem to work OK. I have wondered if I should rewire those units with a chassis ground to a three-prong plug, but it's a question I've yet to ask ExactPower. So if anyone has more info on this particular question, I'd be interest to know it.
Thanks for all of the info. It does sound like the SP15A is defintely worth trying with the only caveat being that I use an Electraglide Epiphany on my CDP. Nsgarch/Hassel have you noticed any sonic changes to the sound of either the EP15A or SP15A depending on which power cord is powering either of those units (from wall to EP15A or from EP15A to Sp15A)?
I decided to let my better PC/s (PS Audio Statement and Shunyata Black Mamba) work with my amps and front-end, and usemy Shunyata Sidewinder and a HMS PC with the EP-units. I did not really compare different settings, because I found that, once I had started to use the EP-units, it was hardly possible any longer to distinguish between the different PCs, when they already were being plugged into one of the EPs. In other words: My experience is that expensive PCs become much less important once you start to use an EP-combo, which obviously cleans out the electrical dirt that otherwise the PCs are supposed to filter out.
I agree w/ Hassel that the sonic improvements of the EP/SP override any subtle differences you'll hear between PC's -- with one exception: actually two:

1.) "The bigger the pipe, the better the flow." If you are using a 20A circuit (dedicated or not) it is house-wired with 10AWG per code. So IMO, always use a cord that's 10AWG (or bigger) to and between the power units and for your amp(s). Also, for reasons I don't understand from an engineering standpoint, CDP's and DAC's seem to like large wire sizes too. In any case, I recommend minimum 14AWG for equipment other than amps, conditioners, CDP's and DAC's.

2.) Even using a balanced power unit, when powering anything digital (including preamps etc. with digital readouts) always use a PC with a shield -- a shield that's tied to ground at the AC plug end and "floated" (disconnected) at the component end. Check with the manufacturer if you're not sure, because a lot of them don't say in their technical descriptions.

2a.) To the folks who argue that no highend mfr. would supply a crappy stock cord: in most cases they're right. However, look at the cord. It will state the AWG size and whether or not it's shielded. Except, if it is shielded, then there's a problem: in order to get a UL approval, the shield must be connected to ground at both ends, creating a ground loop. If you want to fix this, and save yourself some money, carefully remove a one inch section of the outer jacket near the component end and carefully cut out the shield. Then cover the wound with several turns of electrical tape, and you've got yourself a pretty respectable shielded PC.
Has anyone compared the ExactPower to the Audiophile Pure Power 1050 with battery conditioning? I don't want another transformer based conditioner.

This seems like an even cleaner solution to get the best of both worlds (Exactpower and PS Audio)

Cytocycle, the ExactPower unit (the EP) does not employ a heavy power transformer like most others. It is a patented amplifier design which regenerate a constant voltage 60 cycle current. (And it's fairly light in weight)

The balanced power unit (the SP) does have a very heavy toroidal transformer, which is characteristic of all such devices.
Sorry for jumping into this thread so late, but are all Electraglide power cords not grounded? I e-mailed Electraglide to ask them, but received no response.
Does this pose any safety risks?

I e-mailed Electraglide to ask them, but received no response.
John, you are entering the "Electra Glide Zone". Proceed at your own risk.
My Electraglide Tri-Glide, Reference Glide, and Fatman are grounded, can't speak for the newer stuff
I am trying to decide between the EP-15A, the BPT 10.5, and the Equitech 1.5Q. I am leaning toward the BPT and would love to hear others views about these units.
I got another question.Above I read Nsgarch post where he claims that a 20A line requires a 10AWG wire by code.What code is this?In my city(Toronto,Canada) the local code asks for a 12Gauge.I understand that some use 10AWG or bigger but for code requirements I always thought it's 12AWG for a 20A line.
Pardales, the EP-15A is a power regnerator (and an excellent one) The other two you mention are balanced power units. Exactpower also makes a balanced power unit, the SP-15A. I have both of the Exactpower units and find them exceptional, but I've not tried the others.
I guess I have to figure out whether I would benefit more from a regenerator or a balance power unit. How do I do that?
in not only my experinece the rgenerator gave by far the more important improvement than the balanced power, as I have described above. However, balanced gave another improvement. There are units that do both, as the PS Audio and Burmester, but from I learned when doing my research, the Exact Power combo was cheaper and better. Maybe you can get a unit or even both, for home auditioning first.
PS Audio offers a 30 day trial on their products. Worth a try based on this.
Pardales, please go back and read the first three posts on this thread -- should answer most of your questions. I (sort of) agree w/ Hassel. The only time you would do a balanced power unit first, would be if you had dedicated AC circuits and pretty reliable (constant voltage and accurate 60 cycle) from your power company (like if you live near a hospital or other major facility) and then you could do balanced power just on your front end stuff.
Nsgarch: Thank you. Going back and reading the first few posts of this thread was clarifying. Conclusion: clean and stable power, then balanced power.

One other question: could I stack an SP15-A and EP15-A on top of one another or would there be to much heat? I only have one shelf left on my rack.

Also, what about the Equitech "Q" units? Is there such a thing as a unit that cleans, stabilizes, and balances.

As far as heat is concerned, you could stack a EP over an SP with no problem. The SP has no vents and doesn't even get warm. The EP is minimally warm.

I don't know what the electronic interaction might be though. You should check with Brent Jackson at Exactpower.

All the BP units have line filtering and overload protection. The Exactpower also has surge protection, but I don't know about the other two.
I decided to give the Audiophile APS 1050 a try. I'll you know how it goes when I get it in a few weeks.
Yoryios -- I forgot to answer your question about wire sizes. You are correct, most codes only require 12 AWG for 20A circuits. Sometimes you do find 10AWG in 20A circuits, especially in better construction and/or where there are long (over 30 feet) circuit runs, because of the voltage drop that starts usually around 20+ feet.

I always recommend that for dedicated audio circuits, if your runs are going to be over thirty or so feet, that you install 8AWG wire. Tip: ordinary duplex outlets will not accept 8AWG wire. Make sure to get outlets with "gas-tight" connectors so you don't run into problems. Gas tight connectors are basically clamps, where you insert the wire into a clamping mechanism which is then tigntened with a screw. Most hospital grade 20A outlets are of this type.
I received my Audiophile APS 1050 a few days ago. Well, WOW!!!
The addition of this unit to my system has made a more significant improvement to the sound of my system than almost anything I have done to my system in recent memory. I am now a true believer in power regeneration. I must have had some really weak power delivery in my home. I would recommend people try such a devise before making any other major component changes. WOW!!!

Everything in the sound of my system is qualitatively and quantitatively better. Total Engagement!!!