Exact power.....hookup question

Based on what I have read it is generally better to hook up the source components to the SP-15a and my tube monoblock amps to the EP-15a.

Yes I would agree with that -- it's how I have my system configured. I have both units on the same dedicated circuit, so most powerline noise is at a minimum anyway. And the SP (balanced power transformer) gets rid of anything else through 'common mode rejection'.

I have all my source equipment plugged into the SP, because those devices benefit most from balanced power. The EP (which is at the front of the room between my amp and (powered) electrostatic speakers support those devices. Tube amps in particular, benefit from the VOLTAGE REGULATING capability of the EP because otherwise tube bias will fluctuate with changes in line voltage.

Neil
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My SP-15 is plugged into my EP-15, with everything except the amp plugged into the SP-15. The amp is plugged straight into the wall because its draw on start up would blow the fuse in the EP-15. Counting the previous amp, this set-up has been in place for over 5 years without any issues.

I forgot to mention, both units are left on at all times.

Chessman, even though you didn't mention what kind of amp you have (and your system is not posted ;--( please try plugging your SP directly into the wall, and your amp into the EP. I bet it won't blow the fuse. Amps benefit GREATLY from being run through the EP (especially tube amps) and I'm pretty sure it's the SP PLUS the amp that's blowing the fuse. If the amp STILL blows the fuse in the EP without the SP transformer's huge start-up load, there's probably something wrong with the turn-on circuitry of your amp. The EP has a 1500 to 1800 watt capacity (depending on your house circuit rating) and there are VERY FEW amps that would exceed that -- even on turn-on. I know you say both units are left on all the time. If that's the case, the fuses can still blow from short power drop-outs (as opposed to surges) but not from the equipment itself. For instance when the power drops for just a split second and then comes right back on, the turn-on circuitry of most power amplifiers won't have time to cool down and reset -- so that huge (unprotected) draw can also pop the fuse.

BTW, to get the superior amplifier performance possible with the EP, it's important to use power cords for both the amp and the EP with a minimum conductor size of 10 AWG. The small 12 and smaller 14 AWG cords that manufacturers supply with their equipment just don't have the energy transfer required for best performance.

Please try that arrangement (using minimum 10AWG power cords) and let us know what you think -- I bet you'll be pleasantly surprised!

Neil
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Neil, thanks for the tip.