Eminent Technology ET-2 Tonearm Owners



Where are you? What mods have you done ?

I have been using these ET2's for over 9 years now.
I am still figuring them out and learning from them. They can be modified in so many ways. Bruce Thigpen laid down the GENIUS behind this tonearm over 20 years ago. Some of you have owned them for over 20 years !

Tell us your secrets.

New owners – what questions do you have ?

We may even be able to coax Bruce to post here. :^)

There are so many modifications that can be done.

Dressing of the wire with this arm is critical to get optimum sonics along with proper counterweight setup.

Let me start it off.

Please tell us what you have found to be the best wire for the ET-2 tonearm ? One that is pliable/doesn’t crink or curl. Whats the best way of dressing it so it doesn’t impact the arm. Through the spindle - Over the manifold - Below manifold ? What have you come up with ?
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@ct0517 
Hi Chris,
My Denon is the M version.  From my reading I believe it did not have a conical stylus but a line contact on a boron cantilever.  I'm pretty sure my Denon has been retipped, including cantilever because the chap I bought it from said it had an aluminum cantilever and only 50 hours but was not NOS.  The DL-103M is way to old and out of production to have only 50 hours and it had a boron cantilever.

The Delos has been resting too long for me to make comparisons with the Denon.  I am running it on the Garard 301 through an ARC PH-3 to my CAT SL-1.  Compared to the Van den Hul Black Beauty on the VPI. running directly to the CAT the Denon does nothing wrong.  It just has a little less. Totally sins of omission.  Not quite as much air, extension up top or separation of instruments.  Bass extension is very nice.  Sound stage not quite as deep.  The differences are not large.  It is not something one notices if one starts listening on the Denon.  It is not until I switch over to the VDH that I hear the difference.  But considering the more than 10X price difference the difference in sq is small.  And it is just very musical.

Re my sub crossover.  I don't know when you last looked at my virtual systems but there are other changes since last we chatted.  I was running a Sunfire True sub with no crossover.  High level input from my amp to the Sunfire.  Gone is the Sunfire, replaced with a Vandersteen sub which uses filters to reduce bass from one's amp and regenerate in the sub.  My amp has a 200k ohm input impedance.  If I set the Vandersteen input filter/crossover at 200k ohms it is crossing over at 80 hz, but it sounds best set at 100k ohms.  I think this produces a slightly lower crossover point but I'm not sure.

Even though I'm running my signal through another box (the crossover) with associated extra plugs and interconnect the Vandy woofer was a huge improvement.   Not only is the bass more precise but the improvement in soundstaging, air and room cues was substantial.  Releving my main speakers of bass improved everything up above.

I intend to try you near field sub experiment next rainy day but my room does not allow permanent near field placement of the sub.

vpi,
Nice looking tables!  Did you ever think about putting the ET2 on the Garrard?  I don't think I've ever seen that combination before.  I have an ET2.5 and a Garrard 301.  I might have to try it.

Ketchup,
I briefly considered putting the ET-2 on the Garrard but considering the obscene amount I paid for the plinth I quickly decided against drilling more holes.  I'll eventually be putting the Delos back on the Garrard and I was never satisfied with the Delos on the ET-2.  But it really sings on the Garrard/Ortofon rig,

If you decide to try it, let us know what you hear.
Cheers,
Harry

considering the obscene amount I paid for the plinth I quickly decided against drilling more holes.

What causes more audiophile anxiety ?

A) Putting an extra hole into a - let's call it a "creation"

or 

B) Getting the hole position correct.

???

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Many years ago I made my own plinth (for fun-still have it) out of birch, mdf, some other materials. 50-60 lbs ? I think.

A sandwiched block with a cutout for the motor/platter - in this case for an SP10.

One of the main lessons I learned from that adventure, is that removable armboards, or arm pillars that swivel, are worth their weight in gold as far as this audio hobby is concerned. The extra work, skill and time that goes into making this option possible, is considerable and definitely not for the hobby person.

Speaking of removable arm boards and audiophile anxiety:

My (now “hybrid”) TNT 6 came with an arm board drilled for a SME V.  I was having difficulty getting a blank or predrilled armboard for my ET2, so I went ahead and had VPI drill the SME V board to accept the ET2, SME cutout and all.  I was eventually able to source two blank armboards which VPI drilled for the ET2 and for the Syrinx PU3 which I keep “just in case”.  Wouldn’t you know it, I was convinced that the arm board with the SME cutout sounded better and actually went back and forth a couple of times with the two arm boards to determine which actually did sound better; PITA.  Eventually settled on the new board without the SME cutout simply because it looked so much better 😊.

Happy New Year to all!