Electrical lines from fusebox to Amps--Upgrading?


I was about to use some Romex NM-B, 10 guage to make a dedicated run from my home's breaker box to the wall outlets,(PSA power ports) but thought I'd ask here about what to use to achieve an 'ultimate' result. Would using metal conduit add shielding to the system? Better wires out there? (I just heard about THHN wire ? ) And how many lines do I need? One per each amp?

Separate/additional ground? My stereo IS connected to my Video system, which runs off a Monster Cable HTS 5100, so I don't think I should isolate the ground to the stereo system (right?)

My amps are (2) McIntosh MC300's (300 w/ch). Fed by PSA II Lab cables from PSA's 20A ultimate outlets (one for each amp).

Do the front end/low power components need a separate line?

I'd appreciate any suggestions as to get the best results.

Thanks,

John
jbatlanta
John, I sent you an e-mail on this as you asked!!
Hi:

Saw your post - could you possibly send me a copy of that e-mail you spoke of?

I am in a rented house, but I am going to try and run two dedicated outlets for my Audio Research M300mkII monoblock tube amps - they're located adjacent to an outside wall, so I think it's doable...

Any thoughts?

Thanks - Jeff
I, too would appreciate a copy of the email.
Hi,
Me too. Please send me one.
Thanks!
DT
I ran three separate lines using the magical Belden 83802 two years ago, and constructed PCs of the same. This 12AWG, fully shielded, all-Teflon stuff is VERY expensive by industrial standards ($1600/1000'), but cheap by ours (!).
Much quieter noisefloor yields more delicate detail, more-articulate bass, and hence better perceived "micro"dynamics, with a cleaner top end.
As Schurter recently redesigned they're affordable IEC320 connector to be one of the best, I decided to sell raw BBelden 83802 AND DIY PC Kits very cheaply to fellow Audiogoners ($35/ PC Kit; $2.50/ft raw, $200/100' spool).
I have to get to work, so call or write for detailed ideas about your dedicated lines. Note that this stuff is already code-approved WITHOUT conduit, and is semi-stranded (7x20AWG=12AWG), and of course fireproof (made for fire-alarm wiring), so it's a no-brainer in many ways!
Cheers.
Ernie 781 483-3922
Here is the email Frank sent me, that you all wanted a copy of.....

John, the twisting helps the inductance and the conduit provides superior
shielding. I have Romex (albeit 12 gauge) in my other 2 dedicated lines and
I can tell the difference with no problem. Here in Michigan no one carried
individual conductor SOLID THHN 10 gauge (everyone had stranded) and so I
bought Romex 10/4 (which has FOUR conductors - 3 shielded and one bare wire,
all solid) and stripped off the plastic type coating. The beauty of this
approach is that in this 10/4 the four conductors are already twisted (unlike
in Romex 10/3 in which the conductors are side by side). Other people who
have done this same thing have bought three separate conductors and then gone
through the super hassle of twisting it in a drill and a vice (a real pain in
the as$^%#$#). This way I simply used a fish tape to easily slide the 4
conductors through the flexible conduit. Then you leave the bare wire and
the conduit unhooked to anything at one end and then the conduit becomes a
great RFO/EMI shield.

You can hear many different things on this topic but I trusted some people
who know their stuff and I am VERY happy with this choice. I was shocked at
the improvement.

I hope this helps!

Good luck!

Frank
John, Jeff and DT, below is a copy of the e-mail I sent John. I researched this issue and followed what I thought to be the best course for me based on the great info from everyone here and on AA including guys like Bob Bundus and Ernie (Subaruguru) who were very helpful. I am not an electician or EE but read a lot and asked a lot of questions.

What I ended up with was what I described in the e-mail and the improvement was shocking. Just remember NOT to hook up the conduit and fourth conductor and that way the conduit is excellent shielding.

I am off to CES as I write this so I will not be on line until Sunday so I leave you in the capable hands of the guys here on Audiogon!!!

John, the twisting helps the inductance and the conduit provides superior shielding. I have Romex (albeit 12 gauge) in my other 2 dedicated lines and I can tell the difference with no problem. Here in Michigan no one carried individual conductor SOLID THHN 10 gauge (everyone had stranded) and so I bought Romex 10/4 (which has FOUR conductors - 3 shielded and one bare wire, all solid) and stripped off the plastic type coating. The beauty of this approach is that in this 10/4 the four conductors are already twisted (unlike in Romex 10/3 in which the conductors are side by side). Other people who have done this same thing have bought three separate conductors and then gone through the super hassle of twisting it in a drill and a vice (a real pain in the as$^%#$#). This way I simply used a fish tape to easily slide the 4 conductors through the flexible conduit. Then you leave the bare wire and the conduit unhooked to anything at one end and then the conduit becomes a great RFO/EMI shield.

You can hear many different things on this topic but I trusted some people who know their stuff and I am VERY happy with this choice. I was shocked at the improvement.

I hope this helps!

Good luck!

Frank