Does removing anti-skating really improve sound?


I know this topic has been discussed here before, but wanted to see if others have the same experience as me. After removing the fishing line dangling weight from my tonearm I’m convinced my bass and soundstage has opened up. I doing very careful listening with headphones and don’t hear any distortion or treble harshness. So why use anti-skating at all? Even during deep bass/ loud passages no skipping of tracks. Any thoughts from all the analog gurus out there?
tubelvr1

Showing 3 responses by krelldreams

 As others have pointed out, there are many different combinations of factors that contribute to the skating effect in each set up. I have a VPI Scoutmaster Signature, which included an antiskate device. I have tried it with and without a number of times in the past decade, trying different combinations of adjustments (VTA, VTF, etc), and I’ve always preferred the sound without the *device*. I believe that the wire to the lemo connector on this tonearm, when the right amount of tension is applied (with a wire twist), produces just the right amount of antiskate. I, too, use the Peter Ledermann method of lowering the stylus down between the grooves at the end of the LP. I can get the requisite “slow” inward movement of the stylus toward the spindle that he suggests, with just the wire twist. The music seems to sound a bit more “dull” with the antiskate device attached. Keep in mind that the wire tension (I believe) is providing some antiskate, so I’m NOT saying antiskate isn’t necessary, I’m only saying the antiskate *device*, in my set up, isn’t necessary. Btw, my son has an Avid ‘table with a Rega 330, and that setup definitely requires some antiskate, but if it’s adjusted as described in the manual, it’s too much. It needs to be dialed back to be correct according to the Ledermann/Schröder method. This is only my experience, so YMMV. 
Jack, it is my understanding that the skating force is not equal across the entire stylus path from lead in to lead out... plus, even if one were to consider doing what you suggest, any sprung table, or any unipivot arm, would use the same forces of gravity to try to “correct” the tilt you intentionally created. I could be wrong, but..
Lewm, I know the numbered value dials you refer to (I’m kinda *from* the good old days ;) ). The Rega arm has a few detents in the antiskate lever which represent 0.5,1.0,1.5,2.0 (iirc), and the manual suggests choosing the value that represents your cartridge’s downforce. I fiddled with the lever on his arm until it behaved as I described in my post. It ended up being between the lowest and second lowest values on that lever for a cartridge with a 2.1 g downforce.