Do I need a specific type of 4 gauge wire for my monoblock amp?


I purchased a JBL BP1200.1 monoblock amplifier, for the subwoofers in my Cobalt. It did not come with any wiring. There are 3, 40amp fuses on the amplifier. I think that means that the power cable that I hook up to it, needs to have a fuse that is at least 120 amps. I ordered an amp wiring kit online, and it comes with an in-line 80 amp fuse. 

My question is, can I buy and ANL fuse holder to replace the in-line fuse holder on the power cable? And do I use a 120 amp ANL fuse, or a 150 amp ANL fuse?
thirdeyethirdear
As I read it, all fuses are on the amp. 

https://pdf.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageBank/v19990822101700/Manuals/109/109BP1200.PDF

If you want to be save, the specs say the maximum current draw is 113 A, so 120A would be acceptable. 
Thanks for responding. So if I switch out the fuse holder from an 80 amp in-line fuse, to a 120amp ANL fuse, the 4 gauge wire and amp would be safe? I've never hooked up an amp to a car before, and I'm just trying to be as safe as possible.
Not many car audio conversations around here... You might consider posting elsewhere if you don't get many replies.
Usually, #4 wiring kits are good for 2000 watts and can be used with a fuse block up to 125-A, so it would be okay. If I were installing this in my car, I would use something like the Rockford 1/0 kit with a 120-A wafer fuse, especially if I were cranking up the volume for extended period of time. If you go with the #4, install the fuse holder as close to the positive terminal as physically possible.
Post removed 
The 40 amp fuses are located on the outside of the amp. (Idk which conductors. I took the safe route, and ordered another wiring kit. Its an OFC (copper) 4 gauge kit. The one I ordered last week, that hasn't arrived yet, was a 4 guage CCA (alluminum) kit. Hence why I was worried about wiring such a powerful amp through alluminum.
I have one final question. The amp is missing ONE set screw. Its an M7 set screw for the power or ground on the amp. Ive looked everywhere. So my question is, how can I securely connect the power (or ground) without that set screw? Can I solder something to fit the end of the wire??
120 amp fuse  that  is higher then the current going through any 
wire in you home. Most houses have a 200 amp service for the whole house. Is this amp for a Stadium ?  I have never seen in 
Audio ever a 150 amp fuse 
 
To handle a 150 amp load youwill need a awg-1 gauge 
in a copper wire ,justlook up the awg wire index for 
150 amps and wire size requirement . Something does not sound right ,this is not for a home ,  even on big power amps 
they use only a 20 amp circuit .i owneda Audio store In the UK
and into Audio over 30 years . Something is not right ,
thereos no home amplifier higher then a 15  maybe 20 amp fuse .
you need to tell us what model brand  and age 
call JBL . If this isaindustrial Amplifier for a outdoor concert 
that is a whole different ball game.
This is for a class D monoblock subwoofer amplifier. Crutchfield said I should use one that's at least 120 amp.

The fuse goes between the battery and the amp itself.

Class d amps have a higher output than most other class a or a/b amps.
Go to a professional installer and save yourself the angina!
Crutchfield sells a wiring kit for $70 that has 4 gauge wire and a fuse.

Best

JD
Thanks for all the advice. I ordered a good copper wiring kit.
 I might get a stiffening cap for it too.
This is for a jbl bp1200.1 (car audio mono amp) *not home audio.

Ill be hooking it up this week. 
Thanks for the advice everyone.
Dont forget to mig weld a bolt to the chassis as close to the amp as possible and use "heavy" cable for the ground.I have seen many dodgy installations where the installers use a self tapper.When it does come loose the next ground is your front loader...which will be toast!I run 400+400wrms in both of my cars, at 130 x 2 it is mind blowing as i use hi fi 10's and fane compression'sThe frontloader runs the original car speakers..phoenix gold 6.5 x 4.PS dont forget to use a HQ battery in the mobile..I swear by Varta from germany, they can handle it and last up to 10 years.You may been to up your alternator unless you have a high current bosch.
Oh yes..and a nice big 1-2mf cap with a digital display to monitor the drop if any. Helps the alternator and battery for the low peaks.
Voltage drops = clipping+distortion = heat and bang!Good luck..blow your mind..that power in a car is insane..people often ask what i am running, one word...HI-FI.

PS I HATE SUBS...DOOF DOOF DOES NIL FOR ME.2 X 120-150W SMOOTH CONE HI FI 10'S WITH 2 X FANE COMPRESSION'S WILL CHANGE YOUR VIEW OF SUBS.
ITS "MIND BLOWING" AT 30% VOLUME.A SMALL SUB IS OK AS AN ADD ON, SAY 100WRMS.
that amp is an older amp but is still very much relevant today. i have one in my car pushing two 12” quantums. rattle the brain loose.
Always put fuse closest to battery, especially if your running 4 wire, i would double up. I use 1 wire when installing subs.   I have seen plenty of cases where bad install, not fused up front , year later power cable rubs metal and then  call the fire department.   That fuse up front will stop this
Use a 120A fuse near the battery in this case..   
Yep, an oldie but a goodie.  I have a single JL 10 driven by a bridged Rockford Punch 200 and it slams!  I love old school car audio.