cement blocks and the squares separated by fake briquet cones avail at home depot workd for me. the briquet cones are made of a kind of ceramic and can be sued between the blocks, squares, and the speakers themselves as well as on the bottome to interface down thru th carpet to put more #psi to the floor, kind of like the way i have used marbles to interface my spke to the floor thru the carpet before. the blocks and squares can be painted, and they arent that unsightly. the cones can also be sued to tilt the stands or spks. its cheeeeeeeeep. theyre solid and rigid. they can be combined in different heights to acommodate the different size monitors.
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I have read concrete blocks work very well.Find some a foot to 18inches depending on how high you want them the use liquid nails to glue them together.Paint them then get some blue tac or equally good putty at a hardware store. make 3 or 4 pea sized balls and put them on top of the block then put your speaker on and make sure they are where you want them then push down hard on the speakers but make sure the speakers arent touching the blocks Dave |
I have made some excellent steel welded construction stands, if this is what your thinking of email me and I will fill you in on all the details. I have acheived some pretty good results and I would be more than happy to share them with you if you are interested in what I described. [email protected] |
I have made some excellent steel welded construction stands, if this is what your thinking of email me and I will fill you in on all the details. I have acheived some pretty good results and I would be more than happy to share them with you if you are interested in what I described. [email protected] |
I made this very solid stand for my B&W CDM 1SE: two inch dia. black iron pipe 24 in. long threaded on both ends. Add the mating round flanges and screw them to 11 or 12in. square piece of 7ply oak plywood as base and same stuff cut to size of speaker bottom for top(use Dremel to grind off screw tips if exposed). Add thin sheet of rubber or some cones for isolation under speaker. Add 4 simple threaded spikes with two nuts each to holes in base and there you go.(haven't found these yet- any suggestions out there?) The pipes can also be filled with sand or lead shot. Got pipes cut and threaded at Home Depot for next to nothing;wood and flanges came from there too. I put a light coat of satin black paint on the pipes and fittings. The oak can be sealed with tung oil or polyurethane with or without stain. I left mine natural and they look great. I bet they can rival the expensive stuff in functionality. You can spend the money saved on better speaker cables. Paul |