Dedicated Power Lines


Been thinking about running dedicated Romex circuits from my circuit breaker box for my rig. No . . . I decline paying for specialty wire, Romex will do. The question is how many discreet lines and the amp capability of each line. I'm still trying to figure out how to do the installation in accordance with Code, without tearing my finished basement apart. For that, I'll consult a licensed electrician.

My rig consists of the following gear: (1) self powered sub that is rated at 1500 "Class D" watts; 4500 watts on a surge; (2) ARC tube CDP; (3) ARC tube line stage; (4) ARC tube power amp rated at 120 wpc - supposedly draws 700-800 watts when driven hard; (5) ARC tube phono pre; and VPI TT. I have a large screen plasma TV and a DVD player. I think that stuff can run off the house circuits.

Right now, everything I just listed is sucking juice off the same line. I gotta believe no good is coming from that set-up. Funny story -- one day my kid was playing Rosetta. I think it's a band that plays music, or at least that what my kid says. Tons of bass. When the band kicked into "low gear," first the basement lights dimmed, then the circuit breaker tripped.

Oh, my house is tied into the utility lines with a 100 amp service. If I change that out, that's the next project. But not right now. Other than Rosetta, no other power delivery problems noted.

Thanks
bifwynne

Showing 3 responses by btselect

I totally agree with MinorL every electrician I've worked with and talked to all say the same thing. This topic has been going on for years where other electricians have said more or less the same thing. I recall one electrician was so frustrated that in his last post he explained again the proper way to install a dedicated panel in a breaker panel, but no sooner his post was posted, these people with probably no qualifications post the same misguided information. You can check my post under "Dedicated power line for audio equipment". With this setup you will have a solid foundation to start with. The most important part of the installation is the wiring techniques I've developed.
I will share this for now, use 10 gauge stranded THHN wire, red insulation for the hot, white insulation for the neutral (return) and green insulation for the ground, no romex please.

MinorL if you are interested I'll be more than happy to discuss this topic with you.

Btselect
My recommendation comes from years of testing different electrical setups, wiring techniques, components etc., everything you have read here on audiogon I've tried and countless more. The key question here is what actually works, have you actually done these types of testing in the proper manner. An example, breakers and receptacles the main difference between them that makes the biggest difference in sound is the mechanism that secures the wire, then choosing the type of material, plating, etc. they are made of. The good receptacles always give you the option of material but they never offer different mechanisms for securing the wire. Look at a GE breaker, the wire is squeezed tight along the whole circumference of the wire giving maximum surface contact and no air gap, a solid design (one of many reasons I use stranded wire). The main difference between a commercial panel and a homeowner one are the larger copper bars the breakers are secured on, and how they are secured bolted versus pressure fitted. I don't use plastic receptacle boxes simply because after countless times of pulling the power chord out of the receptacle the screws that secure the receptacle to the plastic box simply give out. There are just too many things to go over and do, both large and small that affect the quality of your electrical set-up. There is no electrician that will do what is required simply because they were never taught this. I've worked with a lot of electricians to know that no 2 are alike, I've worked with one electrician for over 10 years now, so he knows what needs to be done. One last thing to consider, what if the people giving the recommendations are wrong, with my set-up you don't have to rip out the walls to make changes.
Minorl,

What is your take on the reason why you should put all your audio equipment on one leg and putting all your noisy devices on the other to avoid noise transfer. My understanding is a electrical device sucks electricity in and it's a one way street, the device then generates noise, etc., which then goes back into the system via the neutral or return line. The return line for both legs are then tied together along with the ground, making the ground a very important point to eliminate noise, and not the hot line as the key culprit.