Custom Power Supply for 6v DC Motor


I'm trying to find a more substantial power supply to replace the wall wart that came with my Amazon Model Two. I need a 6v ac/dc converter. Anyone know a source for something like this? Or someone that could make me one? I can get a Black Lightening from Red Wine Audio but that's $1000 plus. I'd be willing to spend half that.
dhcod
If there are voltage swings in my AC, is a robust power supply (such as the one's offered through Acopian) likely to help my turntable's DC motor keep it's speed?
No, the Amazon Model 2 is just a wall wart connected to the motor. There is an adjustment screw for each speed but no external controller for this model. I've spoken to a couple of owners who have found external supplies that have improved the sound. Unfortunately the companies no longer make them in the correct voltage. I'm going to take a look at the medical supplies out there.
Tobias, this little project will be completed by the end of March.

It is about a one single Power supply Box delivering regulated linear DC to 3 different components (DAC, TT motor. and a Phono Preamp) as per the following requirenments:

DC 12 volt, 0.75 Amp
DC 12 volt, 0.4 Amp
DC 9 volt, 1 Amp
Hi Hicham. Whether the effort is worth it or not depends on how happy you are with what you had before. I hope you'll have a chance to post your results.

My own experience with aftermarket regulated supplies is limited to my Apogee Mini-DAC. I had originally replaced the stock OEM switching PS with a SLA battery but was having trouble remembering to switch off. I sent 2 batteries to recycling and then found an appropriate supply on eBay. My impression is it works as well as the battery.
there are plenty of medical grade regulated ac/dc convertors on ebay, some very substantial. I have used them for turntable supplies and they work very well.
Indeed, Tobias this is specifically what I have meant.
Work is now underway to order:
The Acopian Linear Regulated Power Supply.
The Adequate Box to fit in the Acopian PS.
The AC Inlet for IEC320/C14.
On/Off Switch

The Output connection to suit the Hollow barrel(Center positive polarity) connector.

A bit of spending and a bit of work to put them together.
What do you think Tobias? will it worth it?
Will there be a higher quality of the DAC performance?

Cheers
Hicham, I'm not sure I understand your question. May I suggest you click on my link to Acopian and look around? You can enter an output voltage in the search field on the home page and find all the supplies they can make with that characteristic.

If you're wondering about input and output connections, though, you'll probably note, as I did, that the supplies come with screw terminal strips. For audio use, you'd be wise to plan on building your Acopian supply into an enclosure with connectors or captive wiring.
I'm curious as to why you want to replace the stock supply, and what you are trying to accomplish as a result. If I'm not mistaken, the Amazon uses an outboard speed controller. If so, then changing the wall-wart probably isn't going to make much of a difference either way (unless of course the original is dead) If you are having speed control issues with the deck, that's another can of worms entirely.
Tobias please how does the Acobian PS come with? this is from the prespective of:
AC inlet
DC outlet connector and cable
Thanks
Tobias, It's terrible when experience teaches us that there is indeed no free lunch.
My very humble experience in upgrading power supplies and connections suggests that it would be wrong to neglect the quality of the cable which connects the PS to the equipment.

For example, a shielded and (perhaps I should blush here, it does seem like overkill) cryo-treated cable sounded as clean as a 12V battery when used to connect an overbuilt regulated supply to my Apogee Mini-DAC. In comparison, a cable made up of scrap Radio Shack 18ga speaker wire and the same connectors sounded gritty and edgy.
tobias, Those are very nice supplies. They make AC input 6VDC supplies with up to 40A output! OP should look to find power requirements of his motor (will be in watts, W). Then figure out the current demand by dividing the power in W by 6. Based on P (in Watts) = current (in Amperes) X voltage. Take that number and add a safety margin of 1.5X or 2X, and you are good to go with one of those Acopian supplies. Or a battery.
Acopian is a specialist in quality power supplies. They have a lot of choices. An appropriate Gold Box model would very probably cost less than you say you're ready to pay.
Just checked the Calex website. They don't make a 6V DC supply per se, but they do make 5, 10, and 12V ones. You don't say how much current you need for your motor, and that may be a shortcoming with respect to Calex. They make a 1A, 5V supply and a 400mA, 12V supply. You could make a voltage divider network to change 12V to 6V, but the current may be a deal-killer (if you need more than 400mA.). Instead, check out regulated 6V supplies meant for vacuum tube filaments. Several companies sell them in ready to use form. IMO, it would be silly to pay $1000 for the supply you mentioned. Also, what's wrong with a 6V car battery? Old cars used 6V instead of 12V electrical systems. Many companies make very high quality 6V car batteries for auto and marine use (check out "Optima"; it's the best). That's your cheapest and best solution. If you bypass the battery output with a lot of capacitance, it makes a nice difference. I run my cdp with a 12V car batt; it's attached to a trickle charger which is charging when the batt is not in use.
If it were me, I would make one. If you want to buy one, check out a company named "Calex". They sell really high quality, low ripple, low voltage power supplies that come in very nice small packages. Don't know if they make one exactly suited to your needs in terms of current, but for sure they make 6V supplies. Cost around $100-$200. You might also check eBay to see whether anyone sells 6VDC regulated power supplies for tube filaments. Possibly there is a Chinese source for a cheap but decent supply. I'd go Calex.
all you may need is a reasonably well regulated 6VDC power supply; perhaps even a variable output bench supply would work (set for 6 volts of course). You need to know how much current the wallwart is rated for; then the power supply should be capable of 25% to 30% more just to be conservative & reliable. Many electronics outlets such as Mouser, Allied, etc sell them. You can probably even find something on fleabay or Craigslist at a good discount.

if you can solder; look for a kit and build it yourself