If you have a record that you can tell has a static charge, slowly squeeze the lever only, then release away from the record. I kind of squeeze and wave it around the record. Since going to wet vacuuming machines I have had a much marked decline in need to de-stat a record. only use occasionally now.
I've used a Zerostat off and on for years and have always wondered whether sometimes I was adding as much charge as I was eliminating. But, with a record that is clearly static charged, the Zerostat always has reduced the charge. My technique has been to gradually squeeze, then gradually release, the lever while rotating the nozzle across the surface of the LP in a circular pattern. Seems to work. OTOH, I now rely on the Talisman (which gives other audible benefits) and never use the Zerostat.
S-L-O-W-L-Y squeeze and then S-L-O-W-L-Y release, while aiming the gun at the LP and moving it around to cover the whole surface. If you hear/feel the Zerostat 'clicking', you're squeezing or releasing too fast.
Concur with Xiekitchen, release away from record, also as dougdeacon, slowly press and release, no click. I would think you use it this way because pressing lever is creating one charge, releasing is opposite, both pressing and releasing pointing at record is going back to original state of charge. Perhaps I'm wrong, seems someone here would have definitive answer. I have similar results since RCM, very rarely have to use it anymore.
I agree with Dougdeacon. The instructions that came with the unit I had in the late '70s said exactly that. The idea is to charge the object when pulling the trigger and neutralize that charge with an equal amount of opposite polarity charge when releasing it. The click heard when pulling the trigger too fast is likely a rapid discharge of ions. This would create unequal amounts of charge that normally would occur, resulting in charging the record.
This is a manual, less sophisticated method than the ION Systems ceiling emitters I work with in a cleanroom. Their output alternates between positive and negative ions. The units can be adjusted for output level and frequency of the cycles. Our goal is to discharge a 1kV charged object within 10 seconds at the workbench level and within 30 seconds anywhere in the room. We verify this every 3 months.
I also agree with Sns and Xiekitchen that using a wet vacuum cleaning machine markedly reduces the amount of static build-up on LPs.
Relax, have a Bear Republic Hop Rod Rye and listen to some Dixie Dregs...
I was once told to hold the record in one hand, and the gun in the other while you are grounded with your feet on the floor (not carpet). Supposedly the static goes through your body to the ground. I never tried it as I am lazy and do it slowly as others mentioned.
Guiness, nice information! Thanks! I remember using the Zerostat when it first introduced and still use it. I still have the little "thingy" that sparkles when it is still working. I discharge on three points of the record and then once while the record is spinning. The wet method of cleaning helps, but I still have to use the Zerostat. Simply spinning the record creates static.
This may be a very obvious suggestion, but I've found that running a humidifier in the room helps reduce the static charge. I also use a VPI cleaning machine and a Zerostat, but those dry winter months really add to the static problem.
The most common static problem i have is when i remove the record from the platter to play the other side. There is so much static that i have to "pry it" off the platter and you can hear major static crackling and popping. I do the same as Dgad, hold the record in one hand and use the Zerostat SLOWLY squeezing & releasing the trigger to remove the static charge.
In my case, the problem maybe with a faulty ground between my TT and the Phono Preamp hence, creating this static charge when the record is removed.
However, there are other records that i play with no static at all whne i remove them from the platter.
Buy a different mat... Especially if yours is Felt
This is very funny. For many years, I was aiming my Zerostat at the LP during both squeeze and release of the trigger. Then some years ago a few friends of mine told me I had been doing it wrong, that you squeeze while pointing at the LP then release away from the LP. Here in this thread I see that there is some disagreement among knowledgable audiophiles on this subject. So which is it? Squeeze only or squeeze and release?
My Zerostat has got to be at least 30 years old, so it may no longer matter.
My recollection of the instructions from 30 years ago when I got the Zerostat was to keep it aimed at the record for both squeeze and release, do both SLOWLY (no clicking noises) and rotate the nozzle around the surface from 5-8" away. But, I may be mis-remembering all of this. In any event, this is the way I've done it consistently for all this time.
Little thingy = neon bulb. Tgrisham, completely forgot about that.
Relax, have a Dale's Pale Ale and listen to some Dead NFA>GDTRFB>NFA...
I purchased my zerostat relatively recently, with a manual, and it clearly explains that you point it at the record (or whatever object you want to discharge) and squeeze the trigger. Then you point it away and release the trigger. It said the squeeze process removes static charge and the release does the opposite--adds static charge. This seems correct to me--I have used it to statically charge things like balloons. So I think those of you doing the squeeze and release may not be accomplishing much. For me, I often need to do several squeezes, but it always works i.e. the record always ends up virtually free of static.
Thank you Sharpnine. I was hoping I had been using this the correct way for all these many years. I also wondered from time to time if I was doing it correctly, would try both methods. It seemed to me that noticeable dust particles were removed much easier using the point at/point away method, the reason I continued to use that method.
Sharpnine, thank you for pointing us to the instructions in the manual current for the current production Zerostats! I'll have to try this now and my very early production Zerostat.
Interesting, Sharpnine! I guess that would be the correct way to use it. Thanks!
Relax, have a Sprecher Barley Wine and listen to some John Prine...
Thanks for all your responses. I think the variety of replys underscores the confusion that exists on the use of the zerostat. In the end, it seems that the technique suggested by Sharpnine is working best for me at this time. Maybe that will change. Who knows?