Correct way to attach speaker wires... Wait, what!!!

"Colloidal copper preparation compounds". They work for silver and other metals as well. "Kopr-shield" is one. It's an anti corrosion treatment for connections that will not only keep copper from oxidizing it will enhance the resistance properties, "lower resistance" of the termination.    
     There is another product whose name currently escapes me. It's a high silver "powder" content, anti-oxidation treatment. I believe "Parts Express" carries it.    Why audiophiles don't use this more often escapes me.  That this works is a quantifiable fact. Easily measured with a meter as resistance but that measurement will not give you any given frequencies loss or corruption, "one type of distortion". Which is a factor when talking about line transmission. Most know something about frequency induction along the signal path but not so much about signal degradation and corruption. If a given frequency degrades enough, most will think it wasn't there to begin with. And if corrupted until it's simply distortion we think it's something to get rid of when in fact the opposite is true. It needs to be saved. Therefore the goal should be insulative in nature to protect the sanctity of the source signal. That would also help with induction of "other than true source" energy.    "Ramble, ramble, ramble...."   So those are my 2 cents! And if you don't at least try this you should be relegated to using only lamp cord for speaker and signal wire for eternity! Or at least until you can come up with the $27 bucks for the 16oz. container of said compound. Which ever comes first.

Bjg? I thought certain connectors when applied properly "could" improve signal compared to bare wire. Am I wrong? My understanding was that "Banana" plugs for one were invented for testing applications but were soon found to have better connection characteristics because the signal actually traveled on the "skin" of the strands. And when terminated to banana plugs the signal then migrated to the skin of said plug giving you more of an abundance of the original signal "as in the valence ring effect". Whereas the bare wire terminated directly to binding posts did not. Am I wrong? Hee hee , I have been before. And part of the banana plug theorem I've been told does sound illogical. But I've never let a little thing like "LOGIC" stop me anyway!

I have found, "finally" what I believe I will use until the end.

"De-oxit Gold", the 100% liquid solution. Swabbed on and then wiped off. It then dries completely over time.

And it somehow does, "improve" electrical connections of any type. I have both measured this and heard a difference as well.

And "However slight" the difference was? It is there. 

And even under my microscope, I could actually see it as well.

Which is amazing considering that I have looked at the same test-pieces over the   time that it took to dry. And watched as it first formed into an "AFFF".

(Aqueous Film Forming Foam). So, in a nutshell, it sealed the conductive metals from any type of corrosion that I normally would see. Then to a point, it dried up.

This film which it left, which is "very" thin, bonded at the molecular level with the metals involved and is conductive. It looks to work best with gold plating where it works at a "Higher conductive efficiency". But I saw good results with Cu and Ag also. And it stopped dendrites from forming. And thereby any additional or following electrolytic corrosion. It also put a stop to any galvanic issues after being applied too.

I like it!