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Connectors from cross-overs to drivers question

I recently built a pair of the CSS Audio 1TD-X monitors, the sound of which has exceeded my expectations.  The metal connectors that were supplied that clip on to the tabs on the drivers were pretty crappy and very difficult to crimp the wires to.  

Two questions.  First, can anyone recommend better connectors?  Second, I saw a tool somewhere that looks a bit like pliers that strips the covering off the connecting wire, and perfectly crimps the wire to the connector with one squeeze. I suppose I could solder the wires to the driver tabs, but I am not that handy with a soldering iron and it seems to be a delicate place to solder for a nimrod like me.    Cheers, Whitestix 

whitestix

Showing 3 responses by whitestix

whitestix OP
684 posts
 

Eric,

That's the tool was was looking for, thanks.  I guess I will get the soldering iron out. I have never finished a soldering job without burning myself and doubt this time it will be any different. However, soldering the wire to the driver tabs will take the cheap connectors out of the signal path.  

Thanks to other for responding.

whitestix OP
684 posts
 

Mucluv,

I have decided to solder the connections and your solder recommendation is appreciated.  What temperature do you recommend for this solder?

Dougthebiker,

I worry both about damaging the driver with the heat of the soldering iron as well as cold solder joints.  I will find somebody to tutor me on the task.  I see guys in soldering vids seemingly just touch the soldering iron to the union of the wires and I  seem to have to keep the soldering iron on the union for way longer than they do, often melting the plastic coating on the wire. I have been using 60/40 rosin core solder so that might be why?  Thanks for your response.

 

whitestix OP
684 posts
 

Gents,

I got the soldering iron out and soldered those crossover leads to the driver tabs -- no more crappy connectors in my speakers.  I actually think the speakers sound a little clearer and more robust in the LF.  Incredibly, I did not burn myself once!

 

The downside of my efforts was this.  I have thin Sorbothane sheets on top of the my stands and the bond between them and the bottom of my speakers was stronger than the glue bond on the speaker veneer.  I used the iron-on glue recommended by Peter Rawlings and wonder if the usual pressure-sensitive glue provides a better bond?  At any rate, I will use just tiny squares of the Sorbothane on the speaker stand tops in the corners.

Thanks for the great advice and encouragement.  Whitestix 

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