Thanks for posting this thread. I'm in a similar bind with my Thorens TD 125 Mk II. I've had good experience with EdenSound brass footers underneath my KEF speakers so I gave Dan at EdenSound a call. For my Thorens he was recommending the BearPaw Senior Brass footers which are 2" x 2". The other option that may be a but more expensive to some are the TerraCone feet. These are Terra stone cones and brass combination feet that are height adjustable.
I'm researching what to do as well. I hope membership here can chime in with more ideas/experiences.
Cones are relatively cheap; therefore, the best advice would be to try them out in your own system. Buy used and if they dont work, sell them for little to no loss.
Good suggestions. The EdenSound BearPaw falls into the spike camp. The thing that has me scratching my head is whether an approach - points, cones, balls, squishy pods - is considered theoretically more correct for a suspended table.
You are wasting your money for sure. Where does this unwanted energy you want to transfer come from?
I saw this in another forum regarding squishy pods or other types of soft materials used under suspended tables.
"A suspended table (shock mounted) table already has it's own form of isolation.
... if you have a suspended turntable then all you really need to do is provide it with a good solid mass loaded rack, or wall mounted shelf to sit on. Any other squishy isolation you try to implement under it is more likely to cause smearing than provide any real benefit. Cones or some other solid feet under the base to help couple it to that shelf might be beneficial."
I'm hoping the vinyl vets here can adivse as well.
I had good luck with Mapleshade's 2-inch maple board with their rubber-cork-rubber footers underneath the maple. I had an Ariston RD-110, which is a traditional suspended turntable. I just placed the turntable directly on the board. It sounded good(a fuller sound-more like music). That being said, I still think my Mana sounded better. Also, I believe Mapleshade further recommends brass footers here. I don't know about its isolation properties. Previously, the Ariston was on a cheap rolling rack, and I just added this Mapleshade to the top of the rack.
I have an Oracle Delphi mk V, and previously a mk III, and I replaced the stock feet with BDR cones. It tightened up the bass and made the sound stage wider, and overall the sound was more open. So I've had good results. I just recently put Vibrapod Cones under the Airhead the TT sits on and for the $32 that 4 cones cost, it was a huge improvement. Not extremely dramatic but easily heard difference.
Mrvordo, that's exactly the sort of improvement I'm hoping for. Tell me, did you use BDR3 or BDR4 cones?
I use mk4s, but I have never AB the mk3, so ???? The BDRs are extremely inexpensive compared to most, and I now have them under all my front end components. I do think I got the most improvement from them under the TT though.
Use a bicycle tube below the turntable. Better than any Mk 33.3 cones :-)
I thought for Direct Drive turntables softer isolation was to be used and for suspended turntables cones, blocks more rigid isolation was to be used. I'm stumped yet again.
A bicycle tube is basically what the Airhead is, so I'm doing that with the cones replacing the stock feet.
I just changed the BDR Cones under my Oracle to mk3, and put those on mk4 Pucks. HUGH difference. Much better balance now with wider sound stage, and more clarity overall. I have no idea why these things work, but they sure do. It's also amazing how mixing mk3 and mk4 Cones and Pucks can help give a better over all balance than just using one version. They all look alike except for the 3 or 4 engraved on them, but there definitely is something different about them.
I decided to try Mk4 cones first since the timing worked (they showed up for sale at the right time :-) ). I actually set them up with the pointy end up, set into the little depressions where the feet are. I think they work pretty well. Going to live with the table set up this way for a bit.
Good deal Tonyptony. I sort of assume that you did that because the cones, if used with the points down would not give clearance from the original feet. Correct? You may want to try removing the original feet and replacing them with the cones. If you don't already have them, you can get screw post for the cones that will fit the screw holes in the plinth of the table. I would think that that would give you the most improvement. If you get some mk3 cones, try mixing one or two with the mk4 cones. This seems to bring out the best of both for me.
I've used Vibrapod Cones with quite good success on several of my components. If you call the Vibrapod company, you will get good advice on installation and set up.
Compared to other "cone" products, the Vibrapod cones are quite inexpensive.
Mike, yes I was thinking of getting the add on screw posts and giving them a try, but at the same time I'd been thinking of getting a new custom plinth. :-) One thing at a time.
This was one of the first tables I was introduced to regarding (high-end), what's better than normally found.
I think it's an easy recommendation... Always replace any rubber feet with a material that resonances can "Pass" through! No brainer!
Then, the issue becomes, how do the (new) feet SEE the platform it's now married to???
This is going to be your major issue going forward, just remember you're choice to get rid of rubber feet was the right one.
Just a thought... I wonder about replacing the AR rubber belt with silk bead cord??? If possible, I think this will be a major upgrade!