Chemically Altered Audio


Is there any interest in a discussion about home-made formulae that can significantly enhance audio quality? After reading some recent threads here, it appears that one company which had been involved in this aspect of audio is no longer in business, and has no immediate plans to reopen. I would not be making this offer if that company was still operating. My recent experiments in this area are extensive, and most of it is unique. The experiments are not influenced by the products of any other company. I would like to share the results, if it's not too controversial, and if such a discussion would not cause difficulties for anyone actively involved in the business. I certainly don't want to hurt anyone by revealing and discussing what I know. On the contrary, I would like to help open minded readers get started on some very cost effective, radical home-made solutions. I can describe in detail the steps necessary to create some home-made formulae which have proved to be very successful in my own system. I'll await reaction before I continue.
whostolethebatmobile
In my youthful endeavors, I discovered that certain chemicals can definitely alter and enhance the audio experience!😎😜
'Nanotape'...I'll look into that...thanks. *S*

(The obvious pun was "Will I need to get the nanocorder for it?", but that's just being rude..."nanomuzic"...*G*  I'll stop....")

Since I'm using an all metal cone, and there's a need to damp inter-modulation distortion from reflected waveforms....thought I might deal with another potential issue at the same time....
Thought water as a means of thinning would be fine...thanks for verifying.

@danvignau ...Now, don't get them mixed up...;)...and why are you just 'smelling' the 'other'....?! 

*sigh*  It's a good thing I'm committed to performing a PubicI mean Public Service by keeping 'it' out of the hands of those who are wastedImean Wasting 'Its' medicinal qualities.....😆
...and if there's anyone that needs mediocreImean Medicinal treats...Treatment....it's Me.
*red-eyed* ;)
When mixing the Part 1 formula, here are a few notes:

It would be easier to use barium titanate instead of lead zirconate titanate (PZT). You can get barium titanate on ebay in small quantities, but it’s much more difficult to source PZT which contains lead. Barium titanate is not as powerful as PZT but if you use a little more in the mix, it’s still quite good.

Shungite powder is almost pure carbon. You can source it from Russia via eBay, The seller is trustworthy, and I have dealt with them 3 times with no difficlties. But if you don’t want to order from Russia, you can use Ketjen carbon black with similar results. You can get that locally.

If you’re worried about playing around with graphene nanoparticles, you can also get graphene as a suspension (liquid). There’s no possibility of inhaling it. It works the same when mixed with PVA glue.

It’s also a good idea to mix some mica into the Part 1 mix. Synthetic mica and natural mica both work very well, and I use a bit of each sometimes.

You can isolate various ingredients into layers, which can increase the power of the final product. For example, if you mix PVA, graphene and (piezoelctric material of your choice), it works extremely well as a coating directly on a crystal layer (such as silicon carbide).

Finally, you can add various fine powdered crystal sands to the Part 1 or Part 2 mix. I use silicon carbide and aluminum oxide because they are very effective and very cheap ways to buy powdered crystal material, but I have also used many other varieties of powdered crystals, and each has a different effect as Mahgister has pointed out elsewhere. The best I have found is a mixture of 12 crystal powders which I call Tutti Frutti.

After you have painted the layers onto sandpaper and dried the sheets in the sun, cut them into 30mm strips. Stick nanotape onto the reverse side of the strips (which can also contain layers). Don’t remove the protective film from the nanotape until you’re ready to apply the material to cables, chassis etc. The nanotape can be quite difficult to remove once stuck, so don’t use it on anything that could be damaged such as painted logos etc.


Ahhh....*S*  Now, that's some technical details that were missing from all the previous...;)  The means of 'making the souffle' can be as important as the ingredients required...and thanks for all that.
It outlines fairly concisely the 'how to'; and the addition of potentially layering variations of mixtures is intriguing....
Before this forum fades into digital obscurity, I'll back up and 'snip' some of your posts regarding this subject, for references' sake. *S*
You obviously have your notes....in this way, I can have mine. ;)
If anyone would like a copy, they're free to ask....with your permission, of course. 
Don't want to let Merlin's Magic fall into abuse...*G*

Thanks, J