Charles Hansen of Ayre saved my love for audio


If you recognize the user-ID, you probably associate it with a litany of posts about trying to get rid of an unpleasant dryness, a sort of "reedy" sound in my system, that I've been logging-in to write about, over and over again, for years.

Over that time we've gone from room treatment issues, to power conditioning, to after-market cables, to RF treatments, to treating my IC terminals, and, well, back again, with no lasting success. Each time we've tried something, it's seemed to work for a few minutes (or hours), and then right back to the same old problem. Even the installation of a dedicated AC line made no difference. And the worst part was, I knew there was something actually *wrong* -- and I wasn't just listening in a finicky room, for example -- because what I was hearing was far more noticeable and jarring than any of the room/equipment changes I'd experienced before, and I'd listened in the past under some pretty un-ideal circumstances. Whatever was happening, I just wasn't getting it across in my posts in a way that equipped everyone who was trying to help with the right information to make the right suggestion.

Well, Charles Hansen of Ayre fixed it. And the best part is that he wasn't even trying.

In the past day or two, someone logged in to another high-end audio forum, asking what he could do to "warm up" an Ayre system -- which caught my attention because I'm not in the habit of thinking of Ayre stuff as excessively lean. Mr. Hansen made one quick suggestion and, when I applied the same suggestion to my rig, INSTANT SOLUTION.

Know what it was? Disconnect the TV and the DVD player from AC power when listening to music. Just like that, no more trouble, voila.

I had actually gotten pretty close to this fix by accident, since I had a power conditioner with a toggled power switch, connected to the undedicated AC outlet, managing all of my sources, while the amp and preamp were connected by themselves to the dedicated line, but because *all* of the sources were connected to the power conditioner, I was still dumping the RF crap from the switching power supplies of the TV and the DVD into the signal path whenever the CD player was on.

Now the amp and preamp are connected to the dedicated line, the CD player is connected to the undedicated line, and the DVD player and the TV are connected to the power conditioner, and *then* to the undedicated line. And to think, I only spent about two grand in RF shielding and new power cords and interconnects and speaker wires, that I wouldn't have had to spend if I could write about my trouble in such a way that other people knew what was wrong! :-)

So may I humbly and respectfully suggest that this experience be added to the "permanent record" of tweaker suggestions? So that the next time someone comes in and says, "I've got all of this reedy unpleasantness in my music and I don't think it's the speakers," we might all try suggesting this tweak as an antecedent to any money being parted with? It made all the difference in my system, and saved me from dropping any more ridiculous money on my rig.

Cheers, everyone. Sorry for the long post.

Dave O'Gorman
Gainesville, Florida
dog_or_man

Showing 6 responses by dog_or_man

I tried the enacomm filter and it didn't seem to have any effect -- you're satisfied that the Maher Designs PE is truly efficacious?
I've been reading all afternoon about floating the grounds, but it's doubly-scary for me, ever since I had this really stubborn vibration on the front apron of a very beefy amplifier that shall remain nameless -- and after weeks of testing and re-testing with different types of isolation materials, it finally dawned on me that I could still feel the vibration if there was no sound coming from the speakers! I was getting SHOCKED from the chassis of the amp! Eeeepppp!!!!
Klaudio:

COOL! I've still got some latent buzzing in my rig, but it's of a different type altogether and I think attributable to something going on inside the CDP. Will keep you posted.
I just added some ERS paper to the inside of my CD player and a second set of "all clear" power wraps on my CD interconnects -- definitely getting somewhere, now!
I for one am ready to listen to anything and everything that amateurs are doing to tweak their systems. This one change as made more difference in my rig than switching amplifiers.
Having a device's onboard power switch in the off position doesn't solve the problem because many devices (notably your TV and your DVD player) have "switching power supplies" which always draw power and always work, regardless of whether the unit is powered on or not. This is so that the unit can turn "on" when you hit the power button on the remote.

In my rig, the solution was to plug the CDP directly into the wall, and leave all the video gear connected to to the power conditioner, so that I could disconnect the video gear completely from AC mains when I was listening to the CDP. Eventually, budget permitting, I'd probably want to hook the CDP to a separate power conditioner, but most of the benefit of a power conditioner (IMHO) is from filtering out the CDP's and other digital source's RF junk anyway, so I'm not sure that plugging the CDP *into* a power conditioner will yield nearly as much benefit.